Switching from MH to GHL Mitras

Discussion in 'Aquarium Lighting By Dana Riddle' started by KJoFan, May 16, 2018 at 11:53 AM.

  1. KJoFan

    KJoFan Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I will soon be making the swap from 250w MH to the GHL Mitras 7206 fixtures. My tank is young and sps are frags, but I don't want to shock them. Since I don't have a par meter, or easy access to one, my plan is to check my lux readings at the surface with the MH and then try to match (probably undercut actually) those readings with the leds. Is this a solid plan, or should I be aiming for something different to minimize shock?
     
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  2. HolisticBear

    HolisticBear Valuable Member R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Seems like a good plan. As an owner of the Mitras, finding the "right" color balance is tricky (both the individual channel output AND the the manual power balancing features). The sheer number of options in these fixtures means you can be constantly changing settings. The less often you change from one setting to another, the less stress you generate for the corals.
     
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  3. KJoFan

    KJoFan Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I am actually hoping to just find/use someone else's profile or project or whatever they're called and only mess with intensity for acclimation purposes. Otherwise, as you say, I'll be tweaking it constantly and never "happy" and my corals won't be either. I hope they're able to render a color I like. :)
     
  4. Stixlife

    Stixlife Member

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    Thinking of ditching these Kessil ap700 for mitras any suggestions before making the jump? How about pairing them up any issues?
     
  5. HolisticBear

    HolisticBear Valuable Member R2R Supporter Reef Tank 365 Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    No sure I want to hijak Op's thread, but since I replied earlier I'll respond: I'll be ditching my Mitras for Orphek in a few weeks. A major appeal of the GHL when it was released was the 6 puck design, but since then others have introduced diffusers and we other approaches like the Orphek. When your GHL arrives, let's say you want 15k at max power. It's not easy. The default high temperature setting is wrong, the default fan speed is wrong, it doesn't power-balancing the LED automatically, you need to figure out the right percentage per channel. You will spend lots of time researching topics that are controlled automatically in AI, Radion, or Kessil software. You might be silently thermally limited, so you need to ensure you're not. Comparing "hotspots" (not spread) you probably get 1/2 the peak PAR compared to a Radion G4Pro.

    The six puck design is cool, but it's a light for people that enjoy tinkering + researching settings. It's basically the opposite design model as something like a Kessil. There are people that are really happy with them. The color output is really nice, but it took a really long time (months) to get them to do what I wanted them to do on day 1.

    There are no instructions on the light mount, not a big deal. But if you look for help online, you'll basically only find my posts helping people out rather than an official instructions.

    GHL holds it value well. So if you don't like them, you can probably sell them for very close to what you paid.
     
  6. Stixlife

    Stixlife Member

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    Thank you for your help.
     
  7. KJoFan

    KJoFan Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Orphek does not have a diffuser though as far as I know. Didn't want your statement to seem misleading. There's always going to be new/different tech coming along. I think any of the major players in the LED realm are legitimate really. It all depends what you want.

    I haven't looked extensively at Orphek, but they seem quite similar to the design of the Reefbreeders or Chinese black box fixtures, with a few more bells and whistles. Either way, to each their own. :)
     
  8. KJoFan

    KJoFan Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    @mcarroll @saltyfilmfolks Tagging you guys for input. I took some lux readings of my halides last night and despite being the exact same fixture and both Radium bulbs I got different readings. Under one max lux was 850-900 (with the meter set to 100,000) and 1200 under the other as I recall, what kind of surface readings should I be aiming for with the leds? Is it a direct translation (I think no)? I figure aiming lower is better, but how much lower should I aim for to start?
     
  9. mcarroll

    mcarroll Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    On your meter, is the "100,000" setting a x100 multiplier?

    If you're curious about the disparity, check the power consumption from the wall on each one. They're close enough IMO. ;)

    Most LED systems won't deliver 90,000 or 120,000 lux in their standard form.
     
  10. KJoFan

    KJoFan Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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  11. mcarroll

    mcarroll Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    Take a messurement to see what it is now.

    My guess is that it's too low and (if so) I just wouldn't worry about using acclimation mode – it's for corals that are used to dimmer light.
     
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