GHL Mitras - How are you mounting them?

BigAl07

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I'm looking for ideas/suggestions on different mounting solutions for a pair of GHL Mitras lights. I LOVE the RedSea ReefLED Mounts but they aren't able to hold the weight of the GHL Mitras so I'm now looking to see what others are using. I'm not able to do a "Pendant" type of suspended mounting system so it will need to be some type of bar system that mounts to the back of the stand and comes up behind and over the tank. I would love to have the "lift up" ability like the Red Sea unit but that may not be possible or practical.

So let's see what you're using and what you'd get it you had it to do over again.

I'll be running a pair of black 7206's over the Red Sea Reefer 550 G2+ system if that matters.

Thank you all in advance!

Allen from NC
 

jake37

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Mounting from the ceiling on some of the aquariums - using the back attaching bracket on one set. The biggest head-ache with mounting from the ceiling is how to run the power cord but when the aquarium is 4 feet wide it is really the only options.
 

dschuffert

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I just completed this effort today. I think it turned out better than I thought it would. I used the existing RedSea mounting arm for the ReefLED 160S. I have 3 Red Sea 160Ss over my tank. replaced 1 of those lights with the GHL Mitras 7206 lights to compare the difference. This turned out to be a super easy project.

I used the original ReefLED 160S mount. I took the ReefLED light off the mount (two plastic push clips from each side and one M5X20mm screw on the top). I then used parts from the GHL Flex mount adapter System1 to System2 (I didn't buy the GHL mount, just the adapter they sell for about $34 USD). I then used two M4X20mm hex socket head cap bolts with four washers on each bolt - 3 washers between the light and the mount and one washer between the bolt head and the mount). I then used the M5X20mm screw to secure the GHL mount to the ReadSea arm (you need to do this step before you bolt the M4X20mm bolts with the mount to the light).
 

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BeanAnimal

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I just completed this effort today. I think it turned out better than I thought it would. I used the existing RedSea mounting arm for the ReefLED 160S. I have 3 Red Sea 160Ss over my tank. replaced 1 of those lights with the GHL Mitras 7206 lights to compare the difference. This turned out to be a super easy project.

I used the original ReefLED 160S mount. I took the ReefLED light off the mount (two plastic push clips from each side and one M5X20mm screw on the top). I then used parts from the GHL Flex mount adapter System1 to System2 (I didn't buy the GHL mount, just the adapter they sell for about $34 USD). I then used two M4X20mm hex socket head cap bolts with four washers on each bolt - 3 washers between the light and the mount and one washer between the bolt head and the mount). I then used the M5X20mm screw to secure the GHL mount to the ReadSea arm (you need to do this step before you bolt the M4X20mm bolts with the mount to the light).
I think you are going to run into some serious heat issues there. You have two of the fans fully blocked and the third choked down to nothing. I think you may want to use some standoffs to get an .5" to 1" of clearance there between your fans and mount.
 

ThaBeast

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I used 80/20 and 1" long studs screwed into the GHL mounting holes. My tank has a canopy so I just built a light rack but you could easily use 80/20 to make mounting arms that attach the the stand
 

CBonito

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Take a look at the kessil arms/extensions. I was able to bolt mine right into the aluminum profile in my stand and hang an ati straton 120 off them which is pretty heavy. May be the ticket. You can definitely bolt a rail to them too if you wanted to do that. They are strong and you can run cables down them to make it look clean.

lighting.jpg
 

Steve2020

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This is what Crystal Dynamics Aquariums made for my tank they built. I purchased some custom articulating mounts from Aquarium Led Mounts that are specifically made for the Mitras.


20201127_171257.jpg 20201130_123642.jpg 20201212_073429.jpg
 

Steve2020

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GHL also makes Mitras mounts for mounting on the back of the stand.
 

CBonito

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This is what Crystal Dynamics Aquariums made for my tank they built. I purchased some custom articulating mounts from Aquarium Led Mounts that are specifically made for the Mitras.


20201127_171257.jpg 20201130_123642.jpg 20201212_073429.jpg
That's a sweet rig!
 

dschuffert

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I think you are going to run into some serious heat issues there. You have two of the fans fully blocked and the third choked down to nothing. I think you may want to use some standoffs to get an .5" to 1" of clearance there between your fans and mount.
Thanks, that's a great suggestion; I should have thought about that!
 

Steve2020

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That's a sweet rig!
IMO Crystal Dynamics builds some high quality heavy duty tanks, stands, lightbars, whatever you want. Everything custom. You ask for it they will build it or they will tell you structurally not recommended, but will give you their recommendation based on their structure requirements.
 

CBonito

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IMO Crystal Dynamics builds some high quality heavy duty tanks, stands, lightbars, whatever you want. Everything custom. You ask for it they will build it or they will tell you structurally not recommended, but will give you their recommendation based on their structure requirements.
I'm liking it. I've been thinking about a living room tank since I don't do TV. The tank looks top notch.
 

dschuffert

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Welcome - just hate to see you cook your Mitras. They run pretty hot to begin with!
Thank, again—the updated mounting with better standoffs was installed.
 

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BigAl07

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I just completed this effort today. I think it turned out better than I thought it would. I used the existing RedSea mounting arm for the ReefLED 160S. I have 3 Red Sea 160Ss over my tank. replaced 1 of those lights with the GHL Mitras 7206 lights to compare the difference. This turned out to be a super easy project.

I used the original ReefLED 160S mount. I took the ReefLED light off the mount (two plastic push clips from each side and one M5X20mm screw on the top). I then used parts from the GHL Flex mount adapter System1 to System2 (I didn't buy the GHL mount, just the adapter they sell for about $34 USD). I then used two M4X20mm hex socket head cap bolts with four washers on each bolt - 3 washers between the light and the mount and one washer between the bolt head and the mount). I then used the M5X20mm screw to secure the GHL mount to the ReadSea arm (you need to do this step before you bolt the M4X20mm bolts with the mount to the light).

Excellent work. I also see you've not added the Stand-Offs to better facilitate cooling.

Since you've done both the 160s and the 7206's, how much "light spill" are you getting with the Mitras 7206 into the room at viewing level? This will be a "Living Room" tank and be on the same wall (but not directly beside) the TV. I'm concerned the Mitras, since they don't have any type of "Light Deflector" would be too bright when casually sitting in the room given the couch etc is lower than the fixtures will be.

One of the main reasons I'm wanting to utilize the 160s Mounting system is cord management AND the ability to rotate the fixture UP and out of the way for tank maintenance etc.

Here's what I'm talking about:
1709405151245.png




Lastly, THANK YOU to everyone who has taken the time to post and reply here. It helps a TON!!

Allen from NC
 
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BigAl07

BigAl07

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I just completed this effort today. I think it turned out better than I thought it would. I used the existing RedSea mounting arm for the ReefLED 160S. I have 3 Red Sea 160Ss over my tank. replaced 1 of those lights with the GHL Mitras 7206 lights to compare the difference. This turned out to be a super easy project.

I used the original ReefLED 160S mount. I took the ReefLED light off the mount (two plastic push clips from each side and one M5X20mm screw on the top). I then used parts from the GHL Flex mount adapter System1 to System2 (I didn't buy the GHL mount, just the adapter they sell for about $34 USD). I then used two M4X20mm hex socket head cap bolts with four washers on each bolt - 3 washers between the light and the mount and one washer between the bolt head and the mount). I then used the M5X20mm screw to secure the GHL mount to the ReadSea arm (you need to do this step before you bolt the M4X20mm bolts with the mount to the light).

It's been almost 2 weeks since you made this "conversion". Are you still liking it? Any drawbacks?

How much "Light Spill" are you getting from the Mitras?
 

dschuffert

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It's been almost 2 weeks since you made this "conversion". Are you still liking it? Any drawbacks?

How much "Light Spill" are you getting from the Mitras?
Hi Allen - Sorry I somehow missed your previous post on 3/2.

I love these lights. I have since purchased two more. Attached is a picture with two of the GHL lights and one of the Red Sea lights on the tank. The light spill is greater on the GHL lights but not too bad. When I get some time, I will 3D print a light shade (I need to figure out what resin to use that won't be impacted by the heat). I also added some brass standoffs between the light mount and the light.

I still get the functionality of the Red Sea light mounts, although I don't think I will rotate the lights up. I don't want to take the chance of the arm dropping down - the GHL lights are heavier than the Red Sea lights, and I am unsure if that momentum might fracture the glass where the mount attaches to it. I have 3/4" glass, but I still do not want to take a chance.

I can run the GHL cables through the holes on the mount and route it as I did with the Red Sea lights.

I hope this helps!

IMG_3528.jpeg
IMG_3524.jpeg
 
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BigAl07

BigAl07

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Hi Allen - Sorry I somehow missed your previous post on 3/2.

I love these lights. I have since purchased two more. Attached is a picture with two of the GHL lights and one of the Red Sea lights on the tank. The light spill is greater on the GHL lights but not too bad. When I get some time, I will 3D print a light shade (I need to figure out what resin to use that won't be impacted by the heat). I also added some brass standoffs between the light mount and the light.

I still get the functionality of the Red Sea light mounts, although I don't think I will rotate the lights up. I don't want to take the chance of the arm dropping down - the GHL lights are heavier than the Red Sea lights, and I am unsure if that momentum might fracture the glass where the mount attaches to it. I have 3/4" glass, but I still do not want to take a chance.

I can run the GHL cables through the holes on the mount and route it as I did with the Red Sea lights.

I hope this helps!

IMG_3528.jpeg
IMG_3524.jpeg


Excellent reply. Honestly I had not thought about the "momentum" if the light comes down on it's own and I too am not willing to take that change.

If you do decide on printing the "Light Shades" for the 7206's and find a filament that can handle the heat of them (they do get pretty warm) I would like to be NEXT on your list for them. I'll be your first "Shadey Customer" (see what I did there LOL).

No seriously, if you do make some and you're willing to print 2 more I would gladly purchase them for my new build.

When you do get some printed, can you post pics of them here or on your thread so I can get an idea of what they look like?
 

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