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Hey guys/gals, it's been a long time since I've messed with T5 lighting and looking for suggestions. I'm considering setting up a 4x4 tank that is 12 inches deep and lighting it with a four lamp 4' Sun Blaze T5 and two 36" LEDs. I know it's a lot of light but I need the light about 25-30" above the water and I of course have no plans in cranking up the LED's.

I'm trying to accomplish a low heat tank.

I plan to go with ATI lamps. What bulb combination would you guys recommend? Im hoping to get a 20K look and I know much of that can be accomplished with the LED's. I'm trying to avoid the purple or pinkish appearance.

Thanks!
 

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Lets ask ATI.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/which-ati-bulb-combination-should-i-choose.205103/#post-2345319

Their 20k recommends a P+. dump it for a c+ to avoid the Pink.

Not sure what your par target is for the coral but I don't know that you'll hit 100 with the t5 @30in. Without knowing what led your using Im not sure Id call that a lot of light.

Thanks. On one 4' x 4' tank I'll be using a 4 lamp T5 and two SB Reeflight Pro 32.

I can certainly put out a lot of light with that combination and it's all new to me. I'm a die hard halide fan.
 

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Thanks. On one 4' x 4' tank I'll be using a 4 lamp T5 and two SB Reeflight Pro 32.

I can certainly put out a lot of light with that combination and it's all new to me. I'm a die hard halide fan.
Oh yea, I have the SB16 on my cube. You can blast with that.
Whats the target Par?
With an ATI fixture at 30 in (from the coral) I would imagine it would hit the 150 par range. A great zoa light on a 8 or 10hr t5 only sched.
The best growth I ever got(chasing the dragon still) was led t5. My t5 were 8 in from the coral the led rally did little for intensity save at the top of the 55g, but my DLI was based on 12hrs for family schedules and seeing the tank.
6a, led slow blue ramp, 9am 2 t5, 11am all 4 t5, 6pm all t5 off, led ramps off by 10. So an 8hr period of 700 or more par at peak.
1.5 hr blue was less than 50 par or so, at peak led only was around 400 or less at the top.

The acros and stylos BLEW UP.

The concern on hybrid is, IMO, An SB or mars at 14 in will hit close to 1000 par, and completely overwhelm anything the t5 is really doing.

I would target the desired par in tank at the level of the corals, Set a reasonable height( 20in is prob fine), and set the LED to fill in the gap in DLI and overall intensity.
So its kinda picking what light is the dominant one. In my case above It was the t5, as it was capable of a higher par.

And Im still newish to have gotten to use Much MH,and its too hot in socal, but I have a friend running 250w MH at the waters surface in an Acro Dom tank. At that distance and intensity its delivering more par than the sun at noon in Fiji on the beach.
 
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Thanks for all the info! With Halides, I've never even considered measuring par therefore I don't have a meter. I use to run twenty 400w Halides at my last shop but I've turned things down a notch.

The T5 are for added spectrum and I've always seen that T5 combo seems to be the best.

This will be a trial tank. Once I get things dialed in I plan to set up my other tanks the same. I've also considered using either two 70w or two 150w Halides instead of the T5 between the LEDs.
They wouldn't produce much heat compared to what I have now which is all 400 Halides.
 

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One of the coolest things about my time on R2R as far as light goes has been that Ive been able to speak directly the manufactures of several types of fixtures. The most notable Is ATI and Bill at buildmyled. Both are Old school halide sps guys and they both, contrary to current trends(and fashion) both have "blasted" corals and achieved amazing results. Sorry Mr Riddle, but it does bring up some serious questions as to how much, and really what the interpretations of the general public is on his fairly specific data points. I think most dont or havent read his body of work, and only read the one that says 350 par. This doesn't figure DLI in IMO, and most aren considering it much.

My silly light schedule is based on me standing outside and observing how light peaks in nature based on what it says on my light meter. SO yes 350 for most of the day for growth, higher to produce more color(Dana agrees here).

And yes, IMO, its in most cases it seems exciting electrons to create Photons still seems to be using gas and metals(t5 MH). Even Though I have seen like really really amazing results with my SB,
And not impressed with my Ai sol's in the 55,(all led now) although my Par is much less now.

SO for me, were I to have you shop or were considering a hybrid, Id consider the DLI a small amount, use the led mainly for that, and then smash it with a halide(noon sun), or for most folks a t5, as they have a bit less punch generally. (considering ballast and reflectors)

Worth noting, my .02, the reason "kids today" have difficulty with light now is the dimmer. With a t5 MH, its a fixed Par amount, except photoperiod,(DLI), so when coral bleached, they shortened the photoperiod and fed more , acclimated better , etc.
Now, folks immediately hit the dimmer AND the nutrients. at the same time.

Def check out Buildmyled. Hes a good guy.
 

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