Discussion in 'Reef Chemistry by Randy Holmes-Farley' started by cccharliecc, Jan 24, 2018.
Probably, but it won't be useful for a while.
Ok in fridge for a while. You can every grow your own in old soda bottles. Just dont put those in the fridge. U may get thirsty and drink one. Yum
Did you happen to test your ammonia prior to adding it or Dr. Tim's? Just wondering because I am using dry Pukani which I pressure washed, then leave in a tub of bleach, water change, bleach, water change, phosphate / lanthanum chloride bath, water change, more lanthanum cloride bath, then pressure wash, and in the tank for scape, sand, and fill with ri/ro water. My initial test is reading between 0.4 and 0.8 of ammonia.
I thought Dr. Tim's all in one required an ammonia base of 2.0 before you add the all in one product. Figured I'd ask before I add more. I'm guessing some of this is from the dry rock still assuming I didn't get it completely off. I have not added anything but the ri/ro water with instant ocean sea salt. SG is a bit high for some reason about 1.028 which I was shooting for 1.027 which is what I run my current tank at. I will be adding a bit more ri/ro water to the sump anyway so it may balance out.
I did not test anything before starting with the Dr.Tim's cycle....probably should have, but I bought all my dry rock from Billy's Reef Connection.
I basically added the whole bottle of Dr. Tim's and the ammonia on the first day. Just like it tells you to in the chart.
There are also some video's on his website that go over the fishless cycling with Dr. Tim's products.
Mine went good....I just overdosed my ammonia at first I think and it was like 8.0 for 3-4 days.....I ended up adding some other products to assist in the cycle.
All worked out good in the end though....only took 7-9 days or so....still going slow though.
Don't they say that their phytoplankton is supposed to be food for the pods? To help grow/maintain the population?
Might be wrong here
yes, its food for the pods....
I put it in the fridge for now....hoping that's ok!!!
I did feed a dose of it yesterday after i put the pods in and before putting it in the fridge.
You need to feed the pods. When you first start a pod culture in a new DT tank, sump or bucket you add enough phyto to turn the water a light green. Turn off the UV and filters. The pods will start to multiply. When the water turns clear add more phyto. Once you add fish and start feeding your DT you can stop the heavy phyto feeding. Note: they love to gather in chaeto in a sump.
Is it ok to keep in the fridge?
Thanks. I did just on a whim to be honest. Last night I added 20 ml of ammonia and will measure here in a couple of minutes. I'm interested to see what it reads after that dose before I toss in the All in One product. If it is in the proper range then I'll have it added by noon Only a week later than what I wanted but that is just how it goes...
I'm having a really difficult time for some reason balancing my sump's water level vs. tested power failure and overflow. I needed a bigger sump due to the amount of water returning to the sump I probably should drill a small hole in the Sea Swirls which would help but since I've not done that before I'm a bit hesitant. I'll also add a check valve although I still want to be able to not flood/overflow on power off so that is what I've been toying with. Setting that level.
It could be that your returns to the tank are too far below the water level. If that is the case more water drains back to the sump from the DT.
My loclines are only slightly below the water level when running to prevent too much water entering my sump when power is off.
Maybe that will help.
Quick algae questions.
So I am starting to see some grow on the rocks and sandbed now...it's yellow/brownish/green maybe?
Do I need to be concerned with this....what will this lead to...is it normal....does it go away or turn into something else?
I took a pic for reference.
Those appear to be diatoms, a natural progression to the cycle process.
Diatoms are the first to appear. It is caused by silica in the sand. Once that is consumed it should go away. Then the cyano will appear. This can be a problem in tanks with too little flow. It is mostly found in stagnant pools of water.
Cool....it’s been a loooong time since I cycled a tank.
Just did my second ammonia test and looks like I am about 2. Total water volume is a bit tricky because I didn't actually measure exactly. I filled up 3 x 44 gallon brute containers (not all the way to the top) so I'm estimating 39 gallons give or take each or round up to 40. That would be 120 gallons of water. My tank is 54" w x 30" d x 30" h - so about 210 gallons? I thought 240 for some reason but calculators said otherwise 150 lbs of dry Pukani, 200 lbs of sand, 120 gallons of water seems about right.
Dr. Tim's says 10 ml per 10 gallons of water of the One and Only. So...that would be 120 ml of it....if my math is correct or there abouts. I guess I could also add more since it doesn't matter I guess.
I think you can add the whole bottle, you can’t overdose that stuff.
@cccharliecc - you are right. I was just trying to decide if I needed any in reserve. The 16 oz bottle wasn't cheap per say...so trying to get another does if necessary but probably not needed I guess. Oh well, bottoms up
BTW - didn't mean to hijack your thread. I figured I was in the same boat more or less just a couple days behind.
No reason to save the extra is there? Just dump in the whole bottle. It will not keep very long once opened. One bottle per 100 gallons. But if your rich, you could use 2. Not much more benefit for your tank, but more money for him.
@lapin - point taken. It is all in.
It’s all good....that’s was this forum and these threads are for!!!
We all learn.
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