Tank Transfer Method

[DLHDesign]

The lifecycle of Marine Ich can vary based on a number of factors - temperature, salinity, fish species, etc. For that reason (and likely others), the TTM process was designed to be pessimistic about the timelines. Trophonts may have a timeline of 3-7 days in 80F water, but at 75F (perhaps even 78F) this may extend. By running the TTM process for an extra cycle, you are more likely to ensure that the fish is actually ich-free.

In the end, it's a matter of your own level of risk acceptance. The Trophont stage is known to last as short as 3 days, so wouldn't two transfers over 4 days potentially be enough? Perhaps - but there's a risk of it not being enough as well. That's the idea behind the "extra" transfer.

 

[JumboShrimp]

My @Humblefish inspired quarantine area.

 

[MnFish1]

My @Humblefish inspired quarantine area.

Its a nice set up - I would say that having the tank so close together might be an issue long-term. But - Its not Clear how you use your set -up

 

[Iinux]

Alright so my DT got ich. I was stupid so now im having to pay for it. They are currently in day 2 of their TTM cycle. And i have a couple questions :

I am using 2 44 gallon brute trashcans with lids : will bleach be okay with these guys? Also how much bleach do you all use to clean?

Will the fish be okay in the dark for the next 13 days?

What do you use to clean all of your stuff, hoses, nets, etc etc? if possible tell me your cleaning steps.

My ammonia is sitting at .25-.50 (max) with me dosing prime every morning and every night (the recommended dose. At what levels should i start to shorten the transfer time?

Thanks!
Trevor

 

[MnFish1]

1. I would not keep fish in the dark for 14 days - even leaving the lights on in the room would be better.
2. Bleach is ok - assuming you're using the 'food safe' kind. Rinse carefully - and I would also use chlorine neutralizer after filling with water - then dumping that water out - I would use more than the usual dose.
3. you can use the same bleach solution - or just let it dry. The usual way TTM is done is without all of the equipment - but merely a small (like 10 gallon tank) - and then its much easier to clean the stuff (it can all be cleaned in the bleach solution - and detoxified the same way).
4. I would consider just using copper - but I dont know if the plastic from the trash can will adsorb it - levels would be important.
5. your ammonia test will not be accurate with prime added.

Hope all goes ok.

BTW - you realize you will need to leave yoru display tank without fish for 76 days - so - I would also plan for what you're going to do with the fish after you do TTM

 

[Iinux]

1. I would not keep fish in the dark for 14 days - even leaving the lights on in the room would be better.
4. I would consider just using copper - but I dont know if the plastic from the trash can will adsorb it - levels would be important.
5. your ammonia test will not be accurate with prime added.

Hope all goes ok.

BTW - you realize you will need to leave yoru display tank without fish for 76 days - so - I would also plan for what you're going to do with the fish after you do TTM

1.) They are looking much better than even day 1, so I am happy to say it LOOKS like its working. The fish are eating. Due to using the trash can, I do not really have a way to keep my goby from jumping out. Ill go to the store and find something cheap to put over them and move them under a light in the house. (trashcans on wheels)
4.) I really really don't want to use copper. I really like the idea of the TTM. (also some of my fish are not good with copper)
5.) Crap. Ill just make sure to keep adding prime every morning.

As far as whats going to happen after, I have a 75 Gallon tank set up waiting for the end of the TTM. So they will go into that.

As far as the (it can all be cleaned in the bleach solution - and detoxified the same way). What solution ratio is recommended?

 

[lapin]

..... And i have a couple questions :
I am using 2 44 gallon brute trashcans with lids : will bleach be okay with these guys? Also how much bleach do you all use to clean?

You dont need to bleach the trash cans. As long as you rinse them and allow them to dry for 24 hours. You will need to bleach anything such as power heads that you can not be sure thy get dry for 24 hours. Normally just an air stone is used for circulation. That can be tossed each transfer along with the tubing.

 

[Iinux]

5. your ammonia test will not be accurate with prime added.

Actually this isnt QUITE true.... I am using https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fritz-complete (which is the exact same thing) and to quote from its bottle :

API test kits are not nessler type tests. So the simple API test kit that shows yellow to green will not be effected.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

Is anyone else's OCD triggered by this Fritz packaging label's incorrect use of "effect", made worse by their demonstration of the correct use of "affect" in the phrase "or affect pH" just above it? Or is "This product will effect the accuracy" actually the correct use (which I don't believe it is)

Or is it just me?

 

[lapin]

I was having the issue with both labels saying different things.
One says: Instantly removes ammonia, chlorine, chloramines. Detoxifies nitrite, nitrate.
One says: Permanently eliminates chlorine, chloramines, Detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

 

[Iinux]

Alright ALMOST done with my TTM! The fish are ALL doing amazing. They have been on a very strict diet, but everyone looks good and not stressed!

Question : on the last day where it says " Day 13 – Repeat and done (fish should now be ich free)."

Does that mean at that point it is where I can remove the fish and put them in my observing tank while I wait for my tank to be done with its fallow period?

 

[MnFish1]

Alright ALMOST done with my TTM! The fish are ALL doing amazing. They have been on a very strict diet, but everyone looks good and not stressed!

Question : on the last day where it says " Day 13 – Repeat and done (fish should now be ich free)."

Does that mean at that point it is where I can remove the fish and put them in my observing tank while I wait for my tank to be done with its fallow period?

IMO no - but I would ask @HotRocks

 

[Iinux]

Thank you Can't wait to find out, I hate having them in the trash can! I miss seeing them!
Can't wait to move them to their 75 Gallon and get to see my friends again!

 

[Iinux]

Anyone?

 

[Silent]

Yes

 

[Humblefish]

TTM sticky updated with new information for eliminating velvet:

Tank Transfer Method For Velvet

Below is a TTM schedule which will eliminate both Ich & velvet:

Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours

^^ No chemicals (such as H2O2) required.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.

The "standard" 72 hour transfer (or 71 hours for good measure) can resume only near the tail end, once the threat of velvet is gone and you are just concerned about the possibility of Ich (which can remain on the fish for a longer duration - 7 days).

The above TTM schedule was once just a theory of mine, but has now been successfully tested multiple times!

 

[rc4kinu]

TTM sticky updated with new information for eliminating velvet:

Tank Transfer Method For Velvet

Below is a TTM schedule which will eliminate both Ich & velvet:

Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours

^^ No chemicals (such as H2O2) required.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.

The "standard" 72 hour transfer (or 71 hours for good measure) can resume only near the tail end, once the threat of velvet is gone and you are just concerned about the possibility of Ich (which can remain on the fish for a longer duration - 7 days).

The above TTM schedule was once just a theory of mine, but has now been successfully tested multiple times!

I'm approaching Day 10 of original ICH transfer (every 72 hours). Fish is not showing any signs so far of an active velvet disease. My question is will this work to treat possible velvet infection if I start 36 hour transfers (4 times) now or is it a waste of effort since there is no active signs of Velvet? Fish are eating fine. Don't want to expose fish to any more stress of transfers if it's not necessary.

 

[60diablo]

TTM sticky updated with new information for eliminating velvet:

Tank Transfer Method For Velvet

Below is a TTM schedule which will eliminate both Ich & velvet:

Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours

^^ No chemicals (such as H2O2) required.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.

The "standard" 72 hour transfer (or 71 hours for good measure) can resume only near the tail end, once the threat of velvet is gone and you are just concerned about the possibility of Ich (which can remain on the fish for a longer duration - 7 days).

The above TTM schedule was once just a theory of mine, but has now been successfully tested multiple times!

Hello,
I want to use above method on some new fish for a new build I have coming. I’ve been reading so may threads lately my head is spinning. I recently had to break down my 250g reef & take all fish out. They are currently in 2x40g breeders 1x10g & 1x5.5g all running 2.0 copper power for 8 days now. “Ich”.
All doing well so far. Thank God. I made a big mistake in my QT process (actually your qt process “MY mistake“ adding a new fish so here I am. Oh well another lesson learned.
I want to use above method for new fish I will be acquiring for the new tank. Specially for wrasses,gobies,clowns & other small fish.
I know this probably has been answered so I’m sorry.

If I use 2x5.5g tanks for smaller fish or 2x10g tanks for medium size fish. Do I need an HOB filter on these ? Using above schedule.
Also can i put a small power head instead of the air stones. I just bought the ones you suggested. A lot of them but I’m so tired of salt spill on all the tanks I have running
I know I should have a small heater. That’s no problem. I’ve been buying them like i own stock in them.
Thank you!

 

[Big G]

No need for the HOB.
In tanks that small (5.5 gal) a powerhead can blow the fish around too much. Easier to use air stones.

 

[Squidward]

Anyone?

How are your fish doing now? Are they thriving in your ich-free tank now?