TexasCube32

[rpkneumann]

Start of my BioCube 32 started as an adventure in patience.....
After researching/reading to much information and dozens of web store sponsored videos I needed to decide on the size. Taking a measuring tape actually helped making the decision for a Nano tank.
I settle for the Coralife 32 LED tank including the coralife stand (newer version)
It took 3 weeks to finally get all the parts I needed to get started.
Biggest surprise was to finding my live-sand (40 pounds) in a my community mailbox delivered by USPS in 104 F heat and sitting in it for 2 days. Wonder if there was anything "live" left?

Parts Ii ordered:
- inTank Media Basket for Coralife LED BioCube 32 (3 levels, InTank Filter Floss, Saechem Matrix , Carbon Rox 0.8)
- Sicce Syncra 1.5 Aquarium Pump, 357gph
- CaribSea Arag-Alive Special Grade Reef Sand (40 lbs)
- CaribSea Moani Dry Live Rock (50 lbs - smallest available but very reasonable)
- Cobalt Aquatics Flat Neon-Therm Heater (150W)
- Tests: Amonia, Nitrite, Nitrate from Salifert and and a PH tester
- Dr. Tim's One and Only plus Dr. Tim's Amonia solution

More reading convinced me to invest in a RO/DI system.
PureH20 100 GPD RO/DI + Free Dual TDS Meter, Free Flush Kit & Free Shipping (seemed reasonable and good reviews)
That also meant getting a 32 gallon Brute and several 5 gallon buckets.
I'm looking to get a 20 or 10 Gallon vertical storage tank (square) with a small footprint (11.5" by 11.5"). I have limited space. They cost around $90 - $100 but shipping is $80. !!! I have not found a local store for this tank.

Hints are welcome. Anybody knows who carries tanks in Austin, TX and doesn't want $90 shipping .......For example TAMCO 20 Gallon Square Tank 11/ 1/2 x 11/ 1/2 footprint,

Hint: when using super glue to help with the reef structure use heavy duty rubber gloves and a shirt you not mind getting glue on.

The tank is currently cycling on day 4.
Ammonia is constant (add every 2 days) , Nitrites went up and Nitrates too. Not done cycling.

Q: Thinking of dropping a rock in the chamber 2 after the media basket to host pods. Would that work?

 

[rpkneumann]

Fishless Cycling Progress
using Dr. Tim's One and Only (16 oz bottle, one time) and Dr Tim's Ammonium (120 drops ~ 7 ml)
I'll start measuring ph as soon as test kit arrives.

Day	Temp	Salinity	PH	NH3 (mg/l)	NO2 (ppm)	NO3 (ppm)	Other
1	78.5	32.8	N/A	0	0	0
2	79.5	32.9	N/A	0	0	0	+ Ammonium
3	80.1	32.9	N/A	1.5	0.1	2
4	80.8	32.9	N/A	1.5	0.25	5	+ Ammonium
5	81.5	32.9	N/A	1.5	1	25	+ Salt
6	81.0	33.1	N/A	1.5	2	50
7	80.8	35.6	N/A	1.5	4	100	+ Ammonium
8	81.1	35.6	N/A	1.5	2	>100
9	80.4	35.7	7.9	1.5	2	>100
10	80.8	35.8	7.9	0	1	>100
11	80.4	35.9	8.3	0	0.4	>100	added reef builder day before
11	Waterchange 40%	-	-	-	-	-	Water Change 10 gallons (
12	80.2	34.9	8.4	0	1	50	dKH = 10.9
13	80.2	35.0	8.4	0	1	50	-
14	79.9	35.0	8.4	0	1	50	-
15	80.0	-	-	-	-	-	Water change 20 gallons (80%) + ammonium
16	79.7	35.2	8.3	0	1	50
17	79.6	35.3	8.4	0	0.5	20
18	80.2	35.4	8.4	0	0	15
19	80.2	35.4	8.4	0	0	15	added copepods and phyto to get a colony started.
20	79.2	34.8	8.4	0	0.5	10	exchanged 9 cups of water to get SAL down
21	79.5	34.6	8.5	0	0.05	5
22	80.4	34.5	8.4	0	0	50	water change
23	79.5	34.7	8.4	0	0	10	added snails, feather dusters, copepods
24	80.4	34.7	8.4	0	0	10
25	80.8	34.8	8.4	0	0	20	Last entry here. Tank cycled.

 

[rpkneumann]

Day 8
Nitrites coming down.
NH3 stays constant ?
Nitrates through the roof.

 

[rpkneumann]

My LFS says be patient ....

 

[Anthrax15]

Very normal to see a spike in Nitrites then Nitrates. Once Nitrites are completely undetectable, you are good to do a water change to remove the Nitrates. Looking over your temperature swings, you may need to keep the lid cracked on your tank to help with ventilation. A 2-3 degree swing in temp can cause issues with coral happiness.

As far as Ammonia goes, are you dosing more bacteria or adding fish food for the cycle? Nitrites are the most dangerous for fish, ammonia and nitrites can be removed with waterchanges.

 

[rpkneumann]

Still in fishless cycling. First day Amonia on Zero
Took a sample to my LFS and they confirmed :
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites= 20 ( that's 20 x more than my salifert test, seems like i'm off by factor 10, see chart in thread)).
Nitrates >100
dKH = 6.9 (to low)

Q: Anything ideas of what I could be doing wrong measuring with the Salifert test?

 

[rpkneumann]

Very normal to see a spike in Nitrites then Nitrates. Once Nitrites are completely undetectable, you are good to do a water change to remove the Nitrates. Looking over your temperature swings, you may need to keep the lid cracked on your tank to help with ventilation. A 2-3 degree swing in temp can cause issues with coral happiness.

As far as Ammonia goes, are you dosing more bacteria or adding fish food for the cycle? Nitrites are the most dangerous for fish, ammonia and nitrites can be removed with waterchanges.

I'm doing a fishless first cycle. So lives at stake right now.

 

[revhtree]

Congrats on the new tank and welcome!!

 

[rpkneumann]

Thank you for the welcome.

Man, chemistry is hard for a engineer
Added reef builder to increase alkalinity from 6.1 to 8. I followed instructions of the SaeChem Reef Builder to the T and ended up with dKH of 14.4
I think know why....
Newbie mistake?
The biocube spec gives the tank emasurements as:
(Assuming you would use all of the available volume)
20.25x21.875x21.5 = 9,523.82 cubic inch = 41.23 gallons
Corrected for 1/4 inch glass
19.75x 21.375x21.5 = 9,076.36 cubic inch = 39.3 gallons
If you assume that with the fill levels Coralife suggests you end up with 32 gallons (leaves the in-tank sump level about half way down)

I added an InTake media basket and raised the water level as suggested by Intake to just below the mechanical filter media.
Adding 40 pounds of sand plus about 25 pounds of rock reduced this volume greatly.
I naively assumed i would run at 30 gallons. HAHAHA
So my dosing of reef builder was based on 30 gallons.
So wrong... Actual Tank water volume is much less.
Doing the reverse math with the results going from 6.1 to 14.4 reveals that I am actually closer 26 gallons of water.
This would explain why I overshot the values.
Since I still not have fish in the tank.. no harm done and a water change is imminent.
Ammonium is 0 and Nitrits at about 0.4.
Will have another LFS measure my water since I seem to have a big discrepancy of what I measure on Nitrites to what the first LFS told me ( they measured 10 times higher]

 

[rpkneumann]

40% waterchange. NO3 came down significantly but still need less.
Nitrite still to high.

 

[rpkneumann]

40% waterchange. NO3 came down significantly but still need less.
Nitrite still to high.

Day 13 measurements died in matrix. Do another water change tomorrow.

 

[rpkneumann]

Can’t add more lines to the matrix
Day 14. All star points the same.
Will try to reduce nitrates again with waterchange on day 15.
Results here on day 16

 

[rpkneumann]

Did a massive water change ( ~ 20 Gallons) today.
When i siphoned the water I saw a film on the surface (looked like oily substance) and the same film on the glass inside.
Cleaned the glass with a paper towel during the water change.

Is this film harmful?

 

[rpkneumann]

Did a massive 80% waterchange yesterday (day 16) be a use nitrates we’re through the roof and nitrites didn’t move anymore. Added fritz 9000 and ammonium 8 hrs later.
Today’s measurements
Sal 35.2
NH3 0
NO2 1
NO3 50
PH 8.3
I kind of expected the nitrates to be lower ......
Looks like the added ammonia was digested. Not understand why my Nitrits not want to budge.
The film on the water disappeared. I had run to much water in the tank so the media stack was not working correctly. Just flooded chamber 2 not forced water though the filter stack.

I will leave the tank alone now and focus on how to build a quarantine tank. Omg TMI
Since I will be adding only small fish and later coral i will go with a 10 gallon and the some lights.
Trying to stay below $100

Any suggestions?
A small AIO?
What’s an effective filter setup?

 

[rpkneumann]

A good day it is.... Amonion zero, Nitrites down to 0.5, Nitrates down 20.

Also decided to get started on a Quarantine Tank:

• 10 gallon tank
• AquaClear HOB filter
• 50 W heater ( adjustable)
• PVC pipe fittings elbow, T, Cross
• SeaChem Amonia Alert
• Thermometer

Plan to take some of my matrix from my min tank and put it in the HOB as biofilter to get started.

 

[rpkneumann]

Looks like first fishless cycle done. (See matrix)
Do I need to continue to add ammonia to keep it going?

Will be at least 30 days until i add fish.
My quarantine is ready, will get some fish today.

 

[rpkneumann]

QT now hosts:
1 pair of amphiprion ocellaris clown fish (1 1/2")
1 pair of black? ocellaris clown fish (1 1/2)
1 serpent sea star
Video deleted. didn't work.
here are some pictures of the lot ...

 

[rpkneumann]

Moving along just fine.
The main tank is well cycled now.
The QT fishies are fine.
Added Pods and feeding them Python (both from Algea Barn).
Detritus started building after the last water change and a big dose of Ftitzzyme 9000.
I decided to add some snails and feather dusters.
Since the lights are on I also seeing some brown algae on the rocks and glass.

Q: Do I need to do something? Is it "Normal"??

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

Congrats on the new tank! Did I read your post correctly that you have two pairs of clowns? If so, expect some issues in the future. A 32 should be big enough for 2 not 4. Everything looks good though. I would let your tank stabilize for a few months with the inhabitants you got already before assigning anything else (in terms of fish). Keep us posted!

 

[rpkneumann]

Moved my fish population from the QT to the main tank. All are happy.

Added a small cleanup crew who tackles the algea and ditrius collected fiercely.
4 trochus, 4 florida cerith, 1 conch (1.5 inch) adb 4 star astrea. they keep it clean.
To add some movement i also dropped in feather dusters.
the snails seem to move them around.
Should i burry the tubes?

I had added 3 peppermint shrimp earlier which since then have disappeared completely.

Now comes the phase of not overfeeding them. I not seem to have a good handle on that.
They love frozen mysis and also small pellets,
Feed with pump off waited 10 minutes and found lots of mysis floating around after pump turned back on.

Right now i feed 1/4 of a cube twice a day.
or 1/4 tsp of pellets

Can somebody show (picture) or describe in detail the amount of frozen food and /or small pellets i should feed my 5 fish and the serpent starfish?