The RC180ish Peninsula

Discussion in 'Member Tanks' started by Smprc, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Hello everyone. I should have done this a while ago as no matter how many threads or videos you read and watch, nothing prepares you for the real thing. Here is my story. A little over a year ago I decided that I wanted to get back into the hobby, so I started researching, reading and watching, rinsing and repeating...well you get the idea. In March of this year I started getting quotes for a 72x24x24 rimless tank. I ended up going with Crystal Dynamics, thanks to a fellow forum member, mainly because they were localish, I almost pulled the trigger on a Reef Savvy. I ended up using CD for my stand as well. I will spare you the details but the tank and stand finally came in the 2nd weekend in December, yes the order was placed at the end of March. So here she is...drum roll please....

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    A few reasons for this tank. For starters, I didn't want the tank against the wall. I wanted to use it as a room divider. Plus, I love being able to see it from both sides. I initially wasn't sure what type of coral I was going to keep, but I knew I wanted a little mix. Another aspect is that I do not like power cords coming out of the tank. So that might limit what I can keep. With that said, I chose to have a closed loop to help with water flow and circulation. An unfortunate thing that plagues peninsula style tanks is that particulates tend to accumulate at the far end of the tank, thus the CL. Some notes on the stand. 1. Its a stainless steal stand. 2. The wood is 100% cherry stained to match my media stand. 3. Its all one piece, you can't take it apart, meaning you can't slide the wood "skin" off. 4. It's closed, no opening in the back.

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    As a side note, I chose not to go wider than 24" as that seems to be many light fixtures max range and I had to take that into account, would I have loved an extra few inches...who wouldn't ;)
    I chose to use the shadow overflow because from what I have seen and read the bean animal is the way to go now, plus I didn't want any overflow box in the tank. I seem to have a problem with foreign objects in the tanks...don't know why.

    For lighting, I decided to go with LEDs and selected Maxpect Ethereals to start with. Again, not knowing what corals I wanted, but definitely sold on LEDs, I chose these as starters and got 3 of them. I haven't put them on yet, however, so much for power cords not being around the tank. I will have to do something about that in the future, either a canopy or some type of hanging apparatus.

    Sump, skimmer, pumps...etc.
    I had the most difficult time selecting a sump. In the end I went with a Bashsea SS48 with accompanying water reservoir. The skimmer is a Reef Octopus Elite 200int. I have to say, the skimmer is impressive. Pump is a Reef Octopus Varios 8. For the closed loop, I missed the black friday sales...grrr....so I opted for a Jebao DCP-5000. I almost got 2 so that I can have better control but I stayed with one for now. Tunze for ATO. Finnex Titanium 800 watt heater and temp controller. I will add a back up soon or add 2 500watts. I should have asked the community prior to ordering.
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    After much deliberation, questions and thoughts, I decided to go all in with the Triton Method. I hope I don't regret it. I know no one method is best, but what appealed to me about this was the organic approach or natural filtration with the fuge. Ok and the fact that no filter socks are recommended. I can't stress that for myself. I hate filter socks...yes I had a small 55g 15 years ago and I hated them then, no reason to believe I will like 'em now. Petty yes, but I never liked them. The no water change idea...ok I'll take it, of course this is after I already purchased equipment for a mixing station! Plus come on, BRStv gave the fuge a reef reality rating right? I was impressed with the nutrient control using the fuge and so yes I ordered a Kessil H380 too. I'm such a sucker!

    On to the build, still here? Of course you are! Prior to just throwing everything in I wanted to try to prevent major catastrophe so I took the time to prep the stand by sealing it with silicone and then priming and painting the bottom.

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    Stand lighting was done with LED strip lights...yes waterproof ones. And I have used stainless steal screws throughout the build.
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    All power controllers where installed with access from the side door.
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    Another factor that was taken into consideration was noise. That's the main reason I chose the Shadow overflow and decided on a closed stand. Just trying to control noise. However, nothing is for free. It is never a good idea to have a totally closed stand because we need air movement to control heat and get fresh oxygen. I installed a couple of fans. I am slightly concerned. Not sure how long these will last, not sure if they are in a safe enough space, I will be monitoring that very carefully. And I can add a temp controller on them to adjust speed.

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    Soooo...I did mention I decided to use the Triton Method? If you have a weak stomach or can't stand idiots, this next picture might not be for you...you have been warned! Triton requires a minimum of 10% water volume for the fuge and well I didn't have that...until now! Btw, did I mention I can't stand filter socks...just checking. For those of you that are considering starting a tank...ask questions and seek guidance BEFORE you buy stuff. Otherwise, you end up wasting and destroying beautiful equipment. I still can't believe I did this. I couldn't return the sump. Had I decided on the triton method months earlier, I would have ordered a custom sump. But we move on.

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    Today on...hmm, I don't have a youtube channel...but time to plumb the RC180!
    Ok, this is a lot more work than I ever anticipated. If you are going to do this yourself please read the following!!! DRY FIT, DRY FIT, DRY FIT...this is so you don't make a mistake and accidentally plumb a pipe in the way...not just for measurement purposes!

    I have only plumbed the closed loop and am still in the process of plumbing the return. But because I didn't dry fit it all, I made multiple mistakes and now have to order new parts to finish. I had to place valves so that I can maintenance the pump and or when I am ready to add a second one. The closed loop is 1.5 inch drain to 2 1 inch returns.

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    The middle is full siphon, obviously, the gate valve is there the emergency and secondary are flanking it. I contemplated adding a bulkhead but in the end I opted not to. But the pipe is too low and the return cross pipe was suppse to go underneath and I didn't leave enough room. I had to make a modification, but as I said earlier, waiting on parts.

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    Part of the overflow. I need to have the back paint touched up a bit. I was told that the paint is hard and cracked/chipped most likely during the installation process as the tank flexed a little. Anyone buying that story?

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    A couple more before I sign off.
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    Please all constructive feedback is welcome. God knows I already made too many mistakes and could use the help. If there is anything I am missing or didn't consider please let me know.
     
    Sgchick and Zack K like this.

  2. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Everything looks great! Seems like you thought things through really well. Love that you went closed loop with the peninsula.

    And don't regret the mixing station. You will be glad to have it even if for no other reason that convenient top off water.
     
    Zack K likes this.
  3. chefjpaul

    chefjpaul Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Love it!
    Hacked up a brand new sump, dedication!!!
    Nice build
     
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  4. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Thank you for the comments. Its definitely been a labor of love.
     
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  5. reefpaddy

    reefpaddy Member

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    Another +1 on the closed loop. You just don’t see many builds with them these days. Have you looked into an Ocean Motion device to help alternate the output within your loop?
     
  6. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    I didn't even know Ocean Motion existed. However, at over 500, I think I'm better off with a second pump and a controller. Thank you for the recommendation though.
     
    Zack K likes this.
  7. Clayton Jessup

    Clayton Jessup Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    Wow what a beautiful build , it breaks my heart to see that done to my dream 48in Bashsea Sump!! But I understand your pain , I am redoing my entire filtration on my build cuz I think I am deciding on Triton as well ! Beautiful build though !! Keep up the great work !!!!
     
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  8. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Thanks Clayton, trust me, I didn't want to do it. I thought a lot about it, considering the effort I put in to make everything look nice. However in the end, it was either this or order a new custom one and spend some more. What sump are you considering. Bashsea will custom make one. One thing about the bashsea is that it is only 15" high. Would have been better with a few more inches to accommodate the necessary fuge size. Of course that does depend on the DT size.

    On another note, anyone know if we need to keep the bubble trap media in the that section?
     
  9. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    The bubble trap media is hit or miss. It depends on the flow through the tank, the back pressure in the return piping, and the characteristics of the skimmer. You may find the microbubbles get stripped out of the water on their own just fine, as happens in my system. I am also helped by the fact my fuge is between the skimmer and the return so the chaeto strips out most of the bubbles.

    You will need to rely on trial and error and it may change as you dial in your skimmer.
     
  10. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Update...well I finally got this thing filled and a sprung a couple of leaks so I have been busy taking care of those. I took the bubble trap out, so far so good. But I have another issue. The overflow is really noisy. Any help would be appreciated. The noise is coming from the weir, not the outside back box. I use a various 8, if I put it on the slowest setting and dial the gate valve, it is silent, minus the water going down the tube. But when I turn it up, it is rather noisy and not exactly what I thought it would be, I at least expected the overflow to be quiet, again minus the water flowing down the tube.
     
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  11. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I had the same issue. They recommend cutting the 3 standpipes to 7", 2.5" and 3.25". This didn't work well for me. I took the open drain (3.25") and made it 4.5" instead. That raised the water level inside the box and quieted the system down completely. Can't hear a thing anymore.
     
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  12. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Brew, thanks, I also did do that. I raised the open channel to 3.5, I'll try going a little higher. It made a difference. I'll do that this evening and report back. So, if you went 4.5 with the open, how much higher was the secondary? Just another inch? I appreciate your help. Thanks again.
     
  13. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I left the full siphon and emergency pipes at the same heights. The only pipe I changed was for my trickle drain.
     
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  14. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    I managed to quiet the overflow down. But its not perfect yet. I believe that as the flow increases so does the turbulence and that is the noise I hear. If the water level in the outside box can cover the "bulkheads" then the noise reduces significantly. I had to remove the secondary elbow and just use a straight pipe that is slightly shorter than the emergency. Not sure if I can get any better.
     
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  15. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Update...well I've been slowly adding salt getting it to the appropriate level. The Tunze ATO is up and running. Got the lights up. Now I need to add the Kessil H380, but I'm going to wait on that for a couple of weeks after I cycle the tank. I will be adding Dr. Tim's one and only and using the ammonia drops. Here are a couple of updated pics...not much has change. I do have a question maybe someone can help. The water is cloudy. The pictures don't do really demonstrate the cloudiness very well. I rigged a filter sock on the overflow to try to pick up any other floating matter, however it was minimal in what it filtered. Is the cloudiness because the water is starting to get "dirty"? The lights were put on yesterday, but other than testing them I am not running them on. Skimmer is still breaking in so the foam is low. Btw, I tried to aquascape, truth be told, I couldn't figure it out...so I went with the "pile of rocks" look.

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  16. Clayton Jessup

    Clayton Jessup Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    The tank and sump look absolutely amazing Smprc !!! Hands down great job!!!
     
  17. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    CJ...thank you very much. Btw, how did ur exams go? I know you did great. Any thoughts on my cloudy water issue?
     
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  18. Smprc

    Smprc Member

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    Quick review of the Vee Gee STX-3 Refractometer.

    I've never used a refractometer before. When I had my first tank 17 years ago, I was using that little rectangular box with a large white pointer. This refractometer worked great. I didn't even have to calibrate it. I tested using clean RODI and it read zero. Then I used Aqua craft's solution and once again the refractometer measured the 35ppt. I know that many people don't feel the aqua craft solution is perfect, however, you got to have a little faith in things. So I used it and with that my tank now is at 1.0255. So I am very happy with that.

    Btw, the cloudiness is a little better, but still noticeable.
     
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  19. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Leader Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I'm a big believer in consistency. As long as the test solution is "close enough" I feel it is more important to be repeatable. If your water is actually 1.0250 it won't hurt anything. If you let it swing all over because you don't use a calibration fluid that can cause problems. Just my opinion.
     
  20. Clayton Jessup

    Clayton Jessup Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award

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    Hey Smprc , my exam went well ;) I passed !!! Are you running any carbon in your setup to help clear the water or any filter floss ?

    I wanted to ask you Smprc , how are you liking the Bashsea SS Sump ? I am currently looking at new sumps and I can’t decide between their ( Bashsea) 36in Bio-Fuge or a 36in Signature Series Sump for my build . I am wanting to upgrade my sump. And put something a little nicer in my stand ;)
     
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