THE TX REEF ROOM

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As I wait for my sump to be delivered, I completed a non-fish component in the Reef Room. Since the room is on the front of my house, it has a great view for our dogs - I built them a window platform with a folding ramp that fits neatly under my work bench! I will paint the wood to match the frag tank stands. It was also my first time using my new radial arm saw, total game changer. Wish I had it for the stand construction!


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It was also my first time using my new radial arm saw, total game changer. Wish I had it for the stand construction!

I have that exact same chop saw, albeit two decades in the age difference!

It’s built the equivalent of multiple entire houses for me… an incredible tool capable of some wild compound miter cuts!
 
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I have that exact same chop saw, albeit two decades in the age difference!

It’s built the equivalent of multiple entire houses for me… an incredible tool capable of some wild compound miter cuts!
I love it, speeds things up so much and prevents any less-than-perfect cuts. I only wish it had the sliding functionality so I could do longer cuts. I thought it did when I bought it, that's my fault for not reading more carefully. I suppose the ones with the sliding function are more expensive.
 

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I love it, speeds things up so much and prevents any less-than-perfect cuts. I only wish it had the sliding functionality so I could do longer cuts. I thought it did when I bought it, that's my fault for not reading more carefully. I suppose the ones with the sliding function are more expensive.
Also, the sliding blade miter saws like to self-feed the blade if not used in specific ways, which can be incredibly dangerous!

This tool wills still cut through 4x6 material without breaking a sweat, and larger 14”+ pieces of material can be flipped over to complete a cut!

— it is primarily a saw for cleanly chopping up lumber, vs. sheet goods! (Usually a table saw or skil saw is used for the latter!)

— if you get a nice triple chip blade, this saw will walk right through 10-12mm acrylic, too!
 
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I love it, speeds things up so much and prevents any less-than-perfect cuts. I only wish it had the sliding functionality so I could do longer cuts. I thought it did when I bought it, that's my fault for not reading more carefully. I suppose the ones with the sliding function are more expensive.
Also, the sliding blade miter saws like to self-feed the blade if not used in specific ways, which can be incredibly dangerous!

This tool wills still cut through 4x6 material without breaking a sweat, and larger 14”+ pieces of material can be flipped over to complete a cut!

— it is primarily a saw for cleanly chopping up lumber, vs. sheet goods! (Usually a table saw or skil saw is used for the latter!)

— if you get a nice triple chip blade, this saw will walk right through 10-12mm acrylic, too!
Yeah I need to find a solid method for cutting sheet goods, I don’t have a large work table or anything so I always and up with micro-deviations from my line trying to use a saw horse and skil saw
 

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Yeah I need to find a solid method for cutting sheet goods, I don’t have a large work table or anything so I always and up with micro-deviations from my line trying to use a saw horse and skil saw
even table saws are susceptible to cut deviations, sadly…

Best bet with your skil saw for a precise cut is clamping down a nice straight 2x4, a long level, or other straight edge to the sheet to use as a cutting fence!

Alternatively, track saw guides do exist for skil saws! (Basically a fancier version of a clamped down straight edge)
 
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The Bubbletip anemones are getting out of hand, hopefully they splits soon. My zoas are very (maybe too) happy. The pups are throughly enjoying the dog observation stand I built for the Reef Room.

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I finished up the closet/supply room flooring last night. I used vinyl tile for cheapness and ease of installation. It also amused me to use a creative style in a low-visibility room. These tiles are SUPER easy and quick to install, if anyone ever needs a low effort low cost option for flooring.



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even table saws are susceptible to cut deviations, sadly…

Best bet with your skil saw for a precise cut is clamping down a nice straight 2x4, a long level, or other straight edge to the sheet to use as a cutting fence!

Alternatively, track saw guides do exist for skil saws! (Basically a fancier version of a clamped down straight edge)

While I agree completely with the vast majority of this post, I think you will be very hard pressed to find a 2x4 that is actually perfectly straight! Especially these days… so that might not be the best recommendation.

For anyone needing to make straight cuts in plywood, this is a very simple jig that is easy to make and will allow for nearly perfect (maybe totally perfect if you’re very good with a circular saw) cuts.

Prior to buying my table saw and dedicated track saw I used one of these to build quite a few plywood tank stands that are still in use today.
 
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I'm going to make some progress on the tank systems this upcoming weekend, with a focus on plumbing and equipment setup. Electrical equipment has been on my mind, so out of abundance of caution, I am going to install waterproof outlet covers on the outlets behind the stand: https://amzn.to/46rRimd
1771953529590.png
 

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I'm going to make some progress on the tank systems this upcoming weekend, with a focus on plumbing and equipment setup. Electrical equipment has been on my mind, so out of abundance of caution, I am going to install waterproof outlet covers on the outlets behind the stand: https://amzn.to/46rRimd
1771953529590.png
Smart thinking!

The only challenge with these is power adapters… though, you can always plug into the outlet with a power strip, then put power adaptors on that!
 
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I'm going to make some progress on the tank systems this upcoming weekend, with a focus on plumbing and equipment setup. Electrical equipment has been on my mind, so out of abundance of caution, I am going to install waterproof outlet covers on the outlets behind the stand: https://amzn.to/46rRimd
1771953529590.png
Smart thinking!

The only challenge with these is power adapters… though, you can always plug into the outlet with a power strip, then put power adaptors on that!
That is my plan exactly - I am going to mount heavy duty power strips to the stand.
 
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Waterproof outlet covers have been installed. Safety first! I’m brainstorming plumbing now, originally I wanted to have all drains combined but the more I think about it, the simpler I’m thinking it will be for each of the 3 frag tanks to have its own drain into the sump…


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UncommonSense

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the simpler I’m thinking it will be for each of the 3 frag tanks to have its own drain into the sump…
Totally understandable!

I suppose you could just combine the emergency drain stack, then leave the main drains independent… assuming that six drain pipes into the sump becomes too cluttered!
 
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I made progress on building my sump today. I cut a 48x24x0.25” sheet of lexan polycarbonate into two 24x19” baffles. I then cut an equal sized notch in the center of each so they fit together into a “cross” which fits nearly perfectly in the sump, dividing it into four 12x12” chambers.

A fine-tooth circular saw made the cutting easy, only the measuring and prep was time consuming to ensure the pieces are equal and even.

Next time, I will make cutouts in the baffles to allow for water flow through the sump.

Cube sumps are weird, but so far it’s turning out nicely.


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UncommonSense

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I made progress on building my sump today. I cut a 48x24x0.25” sheet of lexan polycarbonate into two 24x19” baffles. I then cut an equal sized notch in the center of each so they fit together into a “cross” which fits nearly perfectly in the sump, dividing it into four 12x12” chambers.

A fine-tooth circular saw made the cutting easy, only the measuring and prep was time consuming to ensure the pieces are equal and even.

Next time, I will make cutouts in the baffles to allow for water flow through the sump.

Cube sumps are weird, but so far it’s turning out nicely.


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This came out awesome!! Good thinking with the mechanically interlocking baffles… that takes a lot of design work out of making everything rigid!

Are you thinking of using a cured silicone bead, or soft rubber U channel to make a gasket around the baffles?

I’m imagining something bolted to the rim to clamp the baffles down, and compress the gasket….

— If the baffles try to bend towards each downstream compartment (water pressure); some of the scrap polycarb from your baffle slots, or a few strips of acrylic could be welded (#16, probably) to the baffles, between tank wall and baffle as a “prop rod”!
 

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