The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Tanggy

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I am also QTing a female lineatus, 2 female potters and a twin spot goby. Building a new 200g tank.

I got mine locally and are adjusting well to copper so far. I’m dosing coppersafe for 5 consecutive days until it reaches therapeutic levels. I split the daily dose up in two. To ease the leopards into it since they are delicate and only 1.5”.

None are showing any signs of ick,velvet, or more importantly flukes and intestinal parasites (poop is brown). However, I’m still running them through 14 days of copper and two rounds of general cure with metro and focus in their meals.

305c243a0387266b4bd75cdaccd362a7.jpg
There is hope after all!!! I am still deciding on which way to proceed with the QT: CU/GC or TTM or nothing but observe...
 

USMC 4 LIFE

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I personally have great success QTing fishes. Yeah I hit some bumps on the road early on but those were mostly due to selecting sick fish from the LFS. Now that I’m more aware of physical and behavioral symptoms of sick fish, I completely avoid them at all cost.

I enjoy knowing that my DTs are disease free. And frankly I need that assurance since I’m often away for weeks at a time.
 

cancun

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I personally have great success QTing fishes. Yeah I hit some bumps on the road early on but those were mostly due to selecting sick fish from the LFS. Now that I’m more aware of physical and behavioral symptoms of sick fish, I completely avoid them at all cost.

I enjoy knowing that my DTs are disease free. And frankly I need that assurance since I’m often away for weeks at a time.
Good point! I totally agree! There is nothing worse than having a problem in your DT!
 

Tanggy

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I personally have great success QTing fishes. Yeah I hit some bumps on the road early on but those were mostly due to selecting sick fish from the LFS. Now that I’m more aware of physical and behavioral symptoms of sick fish, I completely avoid them at all cost.

I enjoy knowing that my DTs are disease free. And frankly I need that assurance since I’m often away for weeks at a time.
If you don't mind sharing your QT protocol. My DT is disease free. I had an issue with ICK before and went fallow for 12 wks. I've vowed any fish that goes into the DT must be treated with CU and prazipro. Been having a string of bad results quarantining some of the wrasses recently. I am just trying to figure out if wrasses are more susceptible to certain medications.
 

sil40sx

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I had to evict my old Pintail yesterday, because I found this one at my LFS.

As soon as I got inside the store, I saw it on the corner of my eye. It looked like it was glowing or something. LOL

Picture don't do it justice, it's way more vivid and bright in person:


IMG_4715.jpg
 

cancun

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I had to evict my old Pintail yesterday, because I found this one at my LFS.

As soon as I got inside the store, I saw it on the corner of my eye. It looked like it was glowing or something. LOL

Picture don't do it justice, it's way more vivid and bright in person:


IMG_4715.jpg
Wow really pretty! Where did your pintail go? I take it you bought it?
 

USMC 4 LIFE

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If you don't mind sharing your QT protocol. My DT is disease free. I had an issue with ICK before and went fallow for 12 wks. I've vowed any fish that goes into the DT must be treated with CU and prazipro. Been having a string of bad results quarantining some of the wrasses recently. I am just trying to figure out if wrasses are more susceptible to certain medications.

With wrasse.....

I always quarantine in my 29g with sand (in Tupperware) if needed and one or two pieces of PVC pipe. I typically QT them with another fish as I found that it’s easier to QT finicky eaters if they’re with another peaceful and aggressive eater. The presence of another fish does wonders when a fish is stressed and not wanting to initially eat to new foods.

After a day or two of eating well, I begin ramping up copper (chelated) over a period of 5-8 days. I stop anytime I notice the fish isn’t eating or shows symptoms of a more pressing disease and begin treating that instead. Once they’re in therapeutic range I do a round of general cure on copper day 8 followed by a 50% water change on copper day 10. I do another round of general cure on copper day 13 and remove the fish from QT on copper day 15. I place the fish in a “critter box” filled with fresh saltwater to wash off any residual meds. Then I place the fish in the DT (I ensure my QT, critter box, DT salinity all match).

I keep the QT spot less so I can easily see their poop which would let me know how aggressive I need to be with intestinal parasites. If everything looks normal I only treat their food with focus and metro in between the two rounds of general cure.

Shopping local is probably the best thing I can. Nothing beats seeing a fish for ten minutes and watching it eat.
 

Tanggy

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With wrasse.....

I always quarantine in my 29g with sand (in Tupperware) if needed and one or two pieces of PVC pipe. I typically QT them with another fish as I found that it’s easier to QT finicky eaters if they’re with another peaceful and aggressive eater. The presence of another fish does wonders when a fish is stressed and not wanting to initially eat to new foods.

After a day or two of eating well, I begin ramping up copper (chelated) over a period of 5-8 days. I stop anytime I notice the fish isn’t eating or shows symptoms of a more pressing disease and begin treating that instead. Once they’re in therapeutic range I do a round of general cure on copper day 8 followed by a 50% water change on copper day 10. I do another round of general cure on copper day 13 and remove the fish from QT on copper day 15. I place the fish in a “critter box” filled with fresh saltwater to wash off any residual meds. Then I place the fish in the DT (I ensure my QT, critter box, DT salinity all match).

I keep the QT spot less so I can easily see their poop which would let me know how aggressive I need to be with intestinal parasites. If everything looks normal I only treat their food with focus and metro in between the two rounds of general cure.

Shopping local is probably the best thing I can. Nothing beats seeing a fish for ten minutes and watching it eat.
Thanks for sharing. Did you have to add another air stone in the QT to increase O2 level while dosing GC.
 

HairyGary

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I used to. But I now use a powerhead that’s pointed right at the surface creating lots of surface agitation. I also use a HOB filter.
I do the same. I believe surface agitation with small powerhead is better O2 exchange than airstone.
 

UABsleeper

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So I’ve made one of the worst mistakes to date in the hobby earlier today.. So here is what I did..

So today I had a little free time and decided put my radion diffusion covers on. After getting the lights on the tank I started up the grill and was back and forth between the tank and grill checking my par levels ect.. trying to get my lights dialed back in.. well where I messed up is not putting my lid back on when going to check on the grill.. I didn’t realize it until after we ate. And did a head count my pintail fairy wrasse was missing.. I found him behind my tank dead..

Sucks because he was my favorite wrasse and I knew better.. it was not the first time he has decided to go carpet surfing.. he has actually jumped from the tank twice when I was changing the water. I just happened to be in the room the other two times..


e0374db4ebe54fa42512ec01ba3110cf.jpg
 

cancun

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So I’ve made one of the worst mistakes to date in the hobby earlier today.. So here is what I did..

So today I had a little free time and decided put my radion diffusion covers on. After getting the lights on the tank I started up the grill and was back and forth between the tank and grill checking my par levels ect.. trying to get my lights dialed back in.. well where I messed up is not putting my lid back on when going to check on the grill.. I didn’t realize it until after we ate. And did a head count my pintail fairy wrasse was missing.. I found him behind my tank dead..

Sucks because he was my favorite wrasse and I knew better.. it was not the first time he has decided to go carpet surfing.. he has actually jumped from the tank twice when I was changing the water. I just happened to be in the room the other two times..


e0374db4ebe54fa42512ec01ba3110cf.jpg
Oh wow.... sorry for you loosing your favorite fish! [emoji849]
 

alanedinburgh

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Has anyone had experience with keeping lineatus wrasse with rhomboids or jordani wrasse? Don’t want try if it causes a big war. Looked at compatability chart but wasn’t sure
 

HairyGary

Why do all your fish look like trout?
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Has anyone had experience with keeping lineatus wrasse with rhomboids or jordani wrasse? Don’t want try if it causes a big war. Looked at compatability chart but wasn’t sure
How big a tank?

I don't think it would be issue if your tank is big enough. I would use box to acclimate them. I had a Lineatus and Rhomboid in 20L QT for about 2 mos together with no issues before the Rhomaboid succumbed to internal parasites I could not kill.
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

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  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

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