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Most LFS are able to source from Quality Marine, online sources are LADD, NY Aquatic, Pet solutions, Coral imports, zoa collector, to name a few.ok guys, where do you get all these AMAZING wrasses?!?!?!
If both of the leopards are female they should be able to coexist, but I would still recommend using a social acclimation box to introduce them together.I currently have a 65g with 2 Black Oscellarus Clowns, a Lubbocks Wrasse (added just over a week ago), and a Starry Blenny (added at the same time as the Lubbocks and he thinks he owns the joint! LOL). I have purchased a Blue Star Leopard Wrasse who is currently being acclimated at the LFS and will be ready to bring home in another week or two. Another LFS has a Meleagris that I'm going to look at tomorrow. Though this is a reliable LFS, I don't quite trust that they will deworm and fully acclimate like the other guys. First question: will the two Leopards be able to peacefully coexist? If so, and I decide to get the Meleagris also (IF she's indeed eating frozen foods), how should I deworm her when I get her home??
Thank you. They are both female. I'll grab some Prazipro and read the directions. I should place the last one in the box, correct? (If I buy the one tomorrow, I'm going to try to convince them to keep it for another week so that I can pick them both up at the same time but if not...)If both of the leopards are female they should be able to coexist, but I would still recommend using a social acclimation box to introduce them together.
The best way to deworm is to follow the instructions with prazipro.
Hope that was a typo because yes if your nitrites are at 5 then you may have issues (uncycled or to much added 2 fast).Hello all. We just purchased a beautiful Social Fairy Wrasse, which is currently in our QT with a few blue eyed anthias. I have a question, since this is our first wrasse and maybe only. It swims around okay at times, then just goes to the bottom of the tank and gets white streaks along its back. We did a water test, our ammonia and nitrates are good, but the nitrites are around 5. could that cause it acting this way? Need help. Thank you
Absolutely gorgeous! Any trick to getting that coloration?Another shot of my McCosker.
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Hope that was a typo because yes if your nitrites are at 5 then you may have issues (uncycled or to much added 2 fast).
I wouldn't worry too much about nitrites, they aren't as harmful in saltwater as they are in fresh.We have had it set up for over 2 months now, we had already QTed some inverts in it and the water has been fine. Used old DT water. I am hoping that it was a mess up with the test. I did a water change this morning and will test it again when I get home from work
Absolutely gorgeous! Any trick to getting that coloration?
Yup, that's simply stress coloration.Hello all. We just purchased a beautiful Social Fairy Wrasse, which is currently in our QT with a few blue eyed anthias. I have a question, since this is our first wrasse and maybe only. It swims around okay at times, then just goes to the bottom of the tank and gets white streaks along its back. We did a water test, our ammonia and nitrates are good, but the nitrites are around 5. could that cause it acting this way? Need help. Thank you
Source one from Kenya, especially if it's the black tail you find attractive.Absolutely gorgeous! Any trick to getting that coloration?
All the mc Coskers I have seen are red. Do they get that color as an adult?Thank you. He certainly does give lots of color and movement to the tank.
I do not do anything special for any of my fish and they all have vibrant colors. I feed a mix of NLS pellets, frozen omega one brine and frozen omega one mysis shrimp. He's in there with a helfrichi, a sharknose goby and a percula. He flashes all the time but mostly in the evening and also actually flashes a lot when my wife or i come sit by the tank.
Btw, Thats straight out of the iphone. No color enhancement at all.