I have a white tailed bristletooth that is a jerk to my lineatus. Seems to be a trend with that genus.
The Wrasse Lover's Thread!
- Thread starter Breakin Newz
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GatorScott
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I like the look of the Pseudocheilinops ataenia will it eat amphipods?
Yes.
Need some wrasse advice. Some back story, sorry for length in advance.
First wrasse was McCoskers. Jumped out during a feeding in QT. Damaged spine and died. Next I got a Filament flasher and a Carpenters. Carpenters had swim bladder problem and was swimming in cork screw pattern then died. Next was a Striped Lubbocks fairy. In tank now but stressed from being chased by Filament flasher.
Lubbocks was in acclimation box for 2 days. No aggression shown from Filament. Released him into tank. First day was chased alot. So I left acclimation box in the tank with the sides off and some PVC in it. Lubbocks stayed in there the next day. Next 2 days he was out and about most of the day. Eating very very well. Last day or so he has been hiding in a cave. I have seen him move places a couple times. But he isnt coming out. Food blows in his cave so I think he is eating still.
When I added the Filament and the Carpenters together into the tank. They swam together for 2-3 days before the swim bladder problem showed its ugly head. So he wasnt aggressive towards that wrasse.
I want to add an Exquisite at some point. I think I have 3 choices.
1. Let the aggression/hiding phase get over with, hoping for the best with these two. Then add exquisite later.
2. Try and catch Filament and put him in the acclimation box for awhile. Hope this solves the aggresion. Then add Exquisite later.
3. Get the exquisite ready to go in tank as soon as I can. To try and divide some of the aggression of the Filament.
Rest of stock list before someone asks. 2 orange clowns, Randalls goby and pistol shrimp, Tail spot blenny, Royal gramma, Purple firefish, PJ cardinal, 2 Fire shrimp, tuxedo urchin and multiple snails. Filament doesnt bother anyone else. Royal gramma was a little protective of his cave. But now the Lubbocks is hiding in that cave and the Gramma has moved and isnt bothering the Lubbocks.
First wrasse was McCoskers. Jumped out during a feeding in QT. Damaged spine and died. Next I got a Filament flasher and a Carpenters. Carpenters had swim bladder problem and was swimming in cork screw pattern then died. Next was a Striped Lubbocks fairy. In tank now but stressed from being chased by Filament flasher.
Lubbocks was in acclimation box for 2 days. No aggression shown from Filament. Released him into tank. First day was chased alot. So I left acclimation box in the tank with the sides off and some PVC in it. Lubbocks stayed in there the next day. Next 2 days he was out and about most of the day. Eating very very well. Last day or so he has been hiding in a cave. I have seen him move places a couple times. But he isnt coming out. Food blows in his cave so I think he is eating still.
When I added the Filament and the Carpenters together into the tank. They swam together for 2-3 days before the swim bladder problem showed its ugly head. So he wasnt aggressive towards that wrasse.
I want to add an Exquisite at some point. I think I have 3 choices.
1. Let the aggression/hiding phase get over with, hoping for the best with these two. Then add exquisite later.
2. Try and catch Filament and put him in the acclimation box for awhile. Hope this solves the aggresion. Then add Exquisite later.
3. Get the exquisite ready to go in tank as soon as I can. To try and divide some of the aggression of the Filament.
Rest of stock list before someone asks. 2 orange clowns, Randalls goby and pistol shrimp, Tail spot blenny, Royal gramma, Purple firefish, PJ cardinal, 2 Fire shrimp, tuxedo urchin and multiple snails. Filament doesnt bother anyone else. Royal gramma was a little protective of his cave. But now the Lubbocks is hiding in that cave and the Gramma has moved and isnt bothering the Lubbocks.
Dividing the attention of the dominant wrasse sooner rather than later is best. Though, if you could catch the filament flasher and put it in time-out, that would help too.
Ill see what I can do tomorrow. If I can catch him fairly easy then Ill try getting him in time out for awhile. Dont want to stress him out and have trouble with him though. Would be great if that would fix his aggression.
I was actually worried about the opposite happening. They are both about same size. Just figured the Lubbocks would be more aggressive.
I was actually worried about the opposite happening. They are both about same size. Just figured the Lubbocks would be more aggressive.
Yes, but a cf. pylei is significantly more aggressive than a filamented flasher.
Two days should suffice for a flasher. With flashers, once the new fish calms down, that's enough. Whereas with a fish as belligerent toward other fairies as a cf. pyei, a more substantial amount of time is necessary.
I try and keep time in an acclimation box to a minimum to prevent unnecessary stress.
I try and keep time in an acclimation box to a minimum to prevent unnecessary stress.
Well poo... I almost had him this morning while he was asleep. Picked up his rock he sleeps in. Small one in the front. Had the rock and him in a net over the tank. After a couple minutes of not being able to be sure he was in there, he jumped out of rock and into the tank. LOL sooo ill try again later or maybe tomorrow morning if he sleeps in his old rock again. He is now behind the main rock structure sleeping where I cant get to him very well.
On the 2 days thing. The Lubbocks was very active when he saw food coming by the acclimation box. The Filament wasnt showing any aggression towards him while in the box. So I figured 2 days was ok.
On the 2 days thing. The Lubbocks was very active when he saw food coming by the acclimation box. The Filament wasnt showing any aggression towards him while in the box. So I figured 2 days was ok.
The lubbocks came out at feeding time. Just long enough to eat then darted back in the cave. Filament flasher didnt even notice him or pay any attention. Im still worried but at least he is eating and his swimming looks normal.
Things are looking lots better. Yesterday and today the lubbocks has been out most of the day. Lubbocks is venturing farther and farther away from the rock cave on the left. Whats weird is I think the acclimation box being in the tank has gave him courage. I left the side off so he can swim in it, which he does now and again. He still gets chased a little bit. But the lubbocks is actually standing up for himself more and more. No actual fighting just showing off. Here are some pics.
saltyhog
blowing bubbles somewhere
I currently have 3 Halichoeres wrasses (DT is 72x24x21) H. melasmopomas, H. biocellatus and an H. melanurus that was supposed to be a Vrolik's. Would it be possible to add an H. iridis?
Other wrasses already in the tank are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. rhomboidalis and M. geoffroyi. Also plan to add a few more Fairy wrasses and some flashers as well.
Other wrasses already in the tank are C. jordani, C. laboutei, C. rhomboidalis and M. geoffroyi. Also plan to add a few more Fairy wrasses and some flashers as well.
Hello everyone. I am stocking my 180g tank and wanted to run this combo by everyone before i attempt it, but judging from the wrasse compatibility chart i should be fine. I currently have a female/young male Cirrhilabrus jordani and a male Blue flasher wrasse (Paracheilinus cyaneus) playing nice in my tank. I am about to get a male Cirrhilabrus lineatus and would like to add a Cirrhilabrus isosceles (Pin tail) to the mix. Anyone encountered any problems with this combo? I will be introducing them to the tank in a acclimation box. Should I be ok quarantining the Lineatus with the Isosceles? Any advice?
I wouldn't expect problems with these three - but use a social acclimation box!
I do foresee an issue here - not with the bathyphilus or the rhomboid, but between the two pintails. Your female will likely eventually turn male, and then ... it's on.
~Bruce, who currently has a bathyphilus and a pintail in QT, with no issues ... so far
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