To drill or not

[drewtx1]

Hi, only my second post on here. Need feedback on drilling or not. My current tank is 75 gallon Marineland majestic with stand (Petco combo) only 2 choices where I live is Petco or Petsmart. And reef octopus 24” hob refugium . I am looking at sumps right now, leaning toward bashsea or synergy Triton style on both. I had an overflow years ago with the aqualifter pump that connects the air hose to it but it failed, the small hole got stopped up ( I travel with my work and am away a lot) so I’m debating on drilling or Lifereef hob. I’ve read on the synergy ghost, h2o, Eshopps, glass holes, and the kind you attach with silicone open back. All have mixed reviews but I haven’t seen too many mixed reviews on glass holes. My only concern is (as I’m away a lot) the teeth or wier not needing to much cleaning every week. Thoughts on a reliable overflow would be helpful. I know nothing is fail safe but the better of the bunch would help me out. I’m planning to totally redoing my tank, deep sand bed and re-aqua scape with more rock. Looks dirty but it’s just the front glass. My wife only feeds and cleans skimmer cup while I’m away. I just switched to this tank from a 55gallon a few moths ago.

 

[WVNed]

I didn't drill and I have before.
Same tank from Petsmart.
Eshoppes PF-1000 external overflow and a Sicce 3.0 return pump dumping over the side.
The PF-1000 has 2 x 1 inch drains and runs silently.

 

[TMB]

I would drill any tank that I planned on operating for any length of time. Since your tank is already set up, that makes thing more complicated, since you will need to take it completely down to drill it.

As far as overflows go my favorite are the external type/ghost overflows, that have a small inner wier box and a larger external overflow box.
You don't really need to worry too much about the teeth clogging, that should not be an issue for a couple reasons. 1 is that the teeth don't clog very fast, and 2 is that if the internal overflow is designed correctly clogged teeth will not overflow the tank. This is because the internal box should be set low enough that water will go over the top of the box and into the overflow before it overflows the tank. The internal box also needs to be placed high enough to keep the water level where it is pleasing to the for the given tank design. There is a happy medium here.

If you're the DIY type these overflows are really easy to build too. I've built several, and all turned out really nice. (I'll take a few pics tonight when I get home).
If DIY is not up your alley, then the high quality builds like synergy or the like will do fine.

One other thing that lends to external overflows vs. internal tower overflows, on an existing tank, is the issue of modifying the stand to accommodate the plumbing going down through the base. Sometimes the stand design makes this complicated.

Whatever you choose, I think you'll be much happier with an overflow/sump system than with the HOB equipment.

HTH

 

[drewtx1]

Any problems when you have power outage, restarts ok? Nice tank

 

[WVNed]

The only problem I have had is feeding dried seaweed. It blocked up the weir when the fish pulled it out of the clip. So I started snipping it into strips and that stopped. I stop my return pump frequently to do tank stuff and it restarts easily with no drama.

My only advice is don't use a small return pump. The water velocity in the tubes over the tank rim keeps them clear of air. If you use a small pump that doesn't work and you will have a problem. Or you can remove one of the tubes and only use one in that case.

 

[drewtx1]

I

I would drill any tank that I planned on operating for any length of time. Since your tank is already set up, that makes thing more complicated, since you will need to take it completely down to drill it.

As far as overflows go my favorite are the external type/ghost overflows, that have a small inner wier box and a larger external overflow box.
You don't really need to worry too much about the teeth clogging, that should not be an issue for a couple reasons. 1 is that the teeth don't clog very fast, and 2 is that if the internal overflow is designed correctly clogged teeth will not overflow the tank. This is because the internal box should be set low enough that water will go over the top of the box and into the overflow before it overflows the tank. The internal box also needs to be placed high enough to keep the water level where it is pleasing to the for the given tank design. There is a happy medium here.

If you're the DIY type these overflows are really easy to build too. I've built several, and all turned out really nice. (I'll take a few pics tonight when I get home).
If DIY is not up your alley, then the high quality builds like synergy or the like will do fine.

One other thing that lends to external overflows vs. internal tower overflows, on an existing tank, is the issue of modifying the stand to accommodate the plumbing going down through the base. Sometimes the stand design makes this complicated.

Whatever you choose, I think you'll be much happier with an overflow/sump system than with the HOB equipment.

HTH

I plan to take the tank totally down if I do drill it, which is what I’m leaning toward. I’ve always had HOB style equipment and I’m really kind of tired of it.

 

[WVNed]

I did not drill mine because it was done as a rushed tank transfer. Now that Ive used the HOB overflow I really like it. If you understand how it works it is rather bulletproof unless the law of physics change in the universe or something cracks.
I use a 20L as a sump and it will only go into the stand through the top because of the center braces on the stand front and back. So you may have to drain it anyway.

 

[TMB]

I did not drill mine because it was done as a rushed tank transfer. Now that Ive used the HOB overflow I really like it. If you understand how it works it is rather bulletproof unless the law of physics change in the universe or something cracks.
I use a 20L as a sump and it will only go into the stand through the top because of the center braces on the stand front and back. So you may have to drain it anyway.

Hope I didn't come off like I was saying that drilling is the only "good" way to do it. It is just my personal preference.
We were also creating our reply's at the same time, so I didn't see yours until after I posted.

 

[drewtx1]

No, i

Hope I didn't come off like I was saying that drilling is the only "good" way to do it. It is just my personal preference.
We were also creating our reply's at the same time, so I didn't see yours until after I posted.

No you didn’t, I’m just trying to get different views on overflows. Can’t decide really.

 

[legionofdoon]

I drilled my 40 breeder and put a synergy 16 with a Bean animal and could not be happier. I've used HOBs for years and will probably never go back. I don't have to worry about algae in the u tube or air bubbles and the synergy doesn't take up a lot of real estate. The weir hasn't clogged yet but I still take it off and clean it about once a month.

 

[legionofdoon]

It also handles way more flow than a HOB ever could.

 

[WVNed]

I had drilled for years. Now I can remove ALL my plumbing and the water stays in the tank.

 

[drewtx1]

I drilled my 40 breeder and put a synergy 16 with a Bean animal and could not be happier. I've used HOBs for years and will probably never go back. I don't have to worry about algae in the u tube or air bubbles and the synergy doesn't take up a lot of real estate. The weir hasn't clogged yet but I still take it off and clean it about once a month.

I have a 40 breeder too, I really like the dimensions of the tank. The synergy is what I’ve been reviewing along with the other ones, synergy seems like it has more options in terms of setting it up. From the videos I’ve watched

 

[drewtx1]

I had drilled for years. Now I can remove ALL my plumbing and the water stays in the tank.

Yea, that’s a plus.

 

[roberthu526]

I’d drill it. It is not hard if you take it slow. After the first hole you will feel like it is so easy why didn’t I do it earlier. I have drilled three tanks already and I feel like I can do it for a living...

 

[1stNoel]

Drill it. I wish I could, but my tank is already established.

For what it's worth, I have the CPR Aquatics CS102 HOB. Make sure you get the Aqua Lifter with it. It works, but I'd much prefer a drilled tank.

 

[TMB]

Here’s a DIY ghost overflow I just made for a frag tank.
The outside part is glass, put together with aquarium silicone, the inside is acrylic.
2 holes drilled between, and no bulkheads. Zero chance of this setup leaking.

 

[Emerson]

Drilling isn't hard at all. I was nervous on trying it, but as some others have said, just take it slow. BRS has a good video on their website. You'll be glad not to have the HOB, I think. You can also drill for the return Line at the same time if you don't want to go over the rim.

 

[drewtx1]

Drill it. I wish I could, but my tank is already established.

For what it's worth, I have the CPR Aquatics CS102 HOB. Make sure you get the Aqua Lifter with it. It works, but I'd much prefer a drilled tank.

I had the CPR with aqua lifter pump years ago, it failed while I was away at work. Wife calling me freaking out cause water was rising in display going over the top,lol. The hole got clogged up where the pump connects.

 

[drewtx1]

Drilling isn't hard at all. I was nervous on trying it, but as some others have said, just take it slow. BRS has a good video on their website. You'll be glad not to have the HOB, I think. You can also drill for the return Line at the same time if you don't want to go over the rim.

Yea I have been watching the BRS videos online, I won’t lie I will be nervous as I don’t want to crack the glass. But I will take it slow and let the drill do the work and no pressure. I just have to get everything together, still deciding on which sump I want too.