To UV or not UV

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeReefs
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Do you use a Uv sterilizer/clarifier in your system

  • Yes

  • No

  • Yes when needed


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These units are effective with both algae and protozoans with Proper wattage. What size tank are you applying 13wt unit to.
UV sterilizers address what is free floating and passes thru its channel, not what is pre-existing
The rated wattage is not even close to effective. Also a dramatic difference in flow is required for each application. Only slows down dinos from what I read
 
I run my 55W unit 24/7, parasites in my tank don't schedule their hatch time 😄
My fish are fighters, they just need a little help when thousands are looking at them as a meal.
 
Have a marine x 110.4. About 90g net. It would be used for Algea purposes. Protozoans aren’t something I deal with as all my fish are Qt’d, but I have delt with dinos in the past in a different system. 13w might be slightly undersized but might be helpful for what I plan to use it for. Description says 80-250g but I’m sure that’s for water clarity
Regarding tank, 13wt isnt within range for this size tank. Ive seen quite often, QT'd fish contract disease but if quarantined on your own, will reduce risk as in your case
The rated wattage is not even close to effective. Also a dramatic difference in flow is required for each application. Only slows down dinos from what I read
You want to address this with OP. I already questioned wattage myself which I recommend 25wt
 
Hi, I don’t mean to hijack the conversation but this triggered a question I’ve had about UV’s. I’ve never used one and my understanding is they sanitize water by killing off anything living in the water it treats.

If that’s right it would kill free floating parasites, bacteria and viruses. Right?

I have seen threads where people running UV’s have serious ick outbreaks. Or where someone with an ich outbreak is recommended to add a UV. But from what I’ve seen reading the threads it doesn’t seem to help with ich or anything else I’ve seen written up. Am I missing something?
Yes effective wattage and flow I suggest some research . I have read a lot of them are not installed correctly hence no results
 
These units are effective with both algae and protozoans with Proper wattage. What size tank are you applying 13wt unit to.
UV sterilizers address what is free floating and passes thru its channel, not what is pre-existing
The rated wattage is not even close to effective. Also a dramatic difference in flow is required for each application. Only slows down dinos from what I read
I did some research and I see that the wattage and flow to deal with parasites is tremendously different than that required for algae. I’ve seen some UV’s that don’t even clearly state the wattage but will tell you it’s good for 200g+ tank. BRS has a good article with a breakdown of the wattage and flow requirements.
 
The rated wattage is not even close to effective. Also a dramatic difference in flow is required for each application. Only slows down dinos from what I read
You want to address this with OP. I already questioned wattage myself which I recommend 25wt
 
Have a marine x 110.4. About 90g net. It would be used for Algea purposes. Protozoans aren’t something I deal with as all my fish are Qt’d, but I have delt with dinos in the past in a different system. 13w might be slightly undersized but might be helpful for what I plan to use it for. Description says 80-250g but I’m sure that’s for water clarity
Regarding tank, 13wt isnt within range for this size tank. Ive seen quite often, QT'd fish contract disease but if quarantined on your own, will reduce risk as in your case
The rated wattage is not even close to effective. Also a dramatic difference in flow is required for each application. Only slows down dinos from what I read
You want to address this with OP. I already questioned wattage myself which I recommend 25wt
From what I’ve been researching this size tank needs as high as 50 watts depending on the installation.
 
I did some research and I see that the wattage and flow to deal with parasites is tremendously different than that required for algae. I’ve seen some UV’s that don’t even clearly state the wattage but will tell you it’s good for 200g+ tank. BRS has a good article with a breakdown of the wattage and flow requirements.
The requirements do differ between algae only and for protozoan and run time for mee is at least 12 hrs a day
 
Makes me wonder why Sicce would advertise 80-250g on a 13w and how it has so many positive reviews. As for flow rate a pump is included with the clarifier
 
As for dinos I’m pretty knowledgeable about them and have outcompeted them nationally without uv. But yes a uv would help for most Dino species
 
I have an 8 watt aqua ultraviolet I only use if needed. It’s only really used on some of my coral quarantine tanks whenever they get cleaned out and setup as new tanks. It’s been pretty good at clearing up some dinoflagellates and other algae blooms in the water column.
 
Regarding tank, 13wt is within range for this size tank. Ive seen quite often, QT'd fish contract disease but if quarantined on your own, will reduce risk as in your case

You want to address this with OP. I already questioned wattage myself which I recommend 25wt
After my research with 100 display and about 40 in sump a 25 and is a UV-C bulb just cuts it for a 75 to 100 gallon no sump And I did start an actual book on it because I have yet to install it. !50 gph for parasite control . 300 - 400 for Algae
 
I did some research and I see that the wattage and flow to deal with parasites is tremendously different than that required for algae. I’ve seen some UV’s that don’t even clearly state the wattage but will tell you it’s good for 200g+ tank. BRS has a good article with a breakdown of the wattage and flow requirements.
The actual manufacturer rated mine which is a Philips
 
In your size tank, you might see some long term befits, but I wouldn't expect anything to happen quickly. I have one of these on a 75g, and it's been a slow process to see any effectiveness. The slower the flow, the more effective, but too slow, and you'll overheat the bulb or not turn the tank over quickly enough to have a reactive effect. I've been running this for about a week and haven't seen any real changes, but I'm taking pix every day, and will compare before and after, after a couple of weeks.
 

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