To UV or not UV

[MikeReefs]

I’ve never used a uv in my system in my years of reefing. But I’m thinking of purchasing a Sicce uv clarifier now that I see it’s 40% off and I can get 13w replacement bulbs for it pretty cheap. My water seems to be pretty clear since I run rox carbon 24/7. But would my system really benefit from a uv? Maybe prevent any Algea from getting outta hand in the future? Im aware that it won’t harm my beneficial bacteria, I’m just worrying about how it would affect my pod population especially in my sump.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I've never had one either. I don't think it would benefit me and I don't want more equipment and no more wires.

 

[buruskeee]

It’s always good to have and not need then need and not have.

I run UV for 8 hours every night (as some parasites nocturnally reproduce). If there are any events that go up, I run UV for 24 hours. Bulbs lifespan are on an hour rating, so at 8 hours a night, it’s good for 3 years.

 

[lapin]

Running since day 1. Only comes on between 3 am and 7 am. Just in case some unwanted parasites hatch out .

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve never used a uv in my system in my years of reefing. But I’m thinking of purchasing a Sicce uv clarifier now that I see it’s 40% off and I can get 13w replacement bulbs for it pretty cheap. My water seems to be pretty clear since I run rox carbon 24/7. But would my system really benefit from a uv? Maybe prevent any Algea from getting outta hand in the future? Im aware that it won’t harm my beneficial bacteria, I’m just worrying about how it would affect my pod population especially in my sump.

These units are effective with both algae and protozoans with Proper wattage. What size tank are you applying 13wt unit to.
UV sterilizers address what is free floating and passes thru its channel, not what is pre-existing

 

[MikeReefs]

These units are effective with both algae and protozoans with Proper wattage. What size tank are you applying 13wt unit to.
UV sterilizers address what is free floating and passes thru its channel, not what is pre-existing

Have a marine x 110.4. About 90g net. It would be used for Algea purposes. Protozoans aren’t something I deal with as all my fish are Qt’d, but I have delt with dinos in the past in a different system. 13w might be slightly undersized but might be helpful for what I plan to use it for. Description says 80-250g but I’m sure that’s for water clarity

 

[EnterName]

It won't hurt having one at hand in case you need it one day, but I don't see the point changing something in a well running system.

I don't think it will manage to kill enough zoospores to stop algae from spreading, but maybe it has a reducing effect, that's hart to tell.

 

[sgdnycct]

Hi, I don’t mean to hijack the conversation but this triggered a question I’ve had about UV’s. I’ve never used one and my understanding is they sanitize water by killing off anything living in the water it treats.

If that’s right it would kill free floating parasites, bacteria and viruses. Right?

I have seen threads where people running UV’s have serious ick outbreaks. Or where someone with an ich outbreak is recommended to add a UV. But from what I’ve seen reading the threads it doesn’t seem to help with ich or anything else I’ve seen written up. Am I missing something?

 

[MikeReefs]

Hi, I don’t mean to hijack the conversation but this triggered a question I’ve had about UV’s. I’ve never used one and my understanding is they sanitize water by killing off anything living in the water it treats.

If that’s right it would kill free floating parasites, bacteria and viruses. Right?

I have seen threads where people running UV’s have serious ick outbreaks. Or where someone with an ich outbreak is recommended to add a UV. But from what I’ve seen reading the threads it doesn’t seem to help with ich or anything else I’ve seen written up. Am I missing something?

It’s a great tool in ich management in that it kills free floating theront. It will in no way cure ich or help once ich has already attached to its host. It will reduce its offspring once they hatch and begin its swimming stage, hence the management part. Numbers will be reduced but ich will likely always be in the system

 

[sgdnycct]

Hi, I don’t mean to hijack the conversation but this triggered a question I’ve had about UV’s. I’ve never used one and my understanding is they sanitize water by killing off anything living in the water it treats.

If that’s right it would kill free floating parasites, bacteria and viruses. Right?

I have seen threads where people running UV’s have serious ick outbreaks. Or where someone with an ich outbreak is recommended to add a UV. But from what I’ve seen reading the threads it doesn’t seem to help with ich or anything else I’ve seen written up. Am I missing something?

It’s a great tool in ich management in that it kills free floating theront. It will in no way cure ich or help once ich has already attached to its host. It will reduce its offspring once they hatch and begin its swimming stage, hence the management part. Numbers will be reduced but ich will likely always be in the system

Is this because not all the water passes through the UV over a given time or that it doesn’t kill 100% of everything the water carries?

 

[BZOFIQ]

Running since day 1. Only comes on between 3 am and 7 am. Just in case some unwanted parasites hatch out .

I run my 55W unit 24/7, parasites in my tank don't schedule their hatch time

 

[MikeReefs]

Is this because not all the water passes through the UV over a given time or that it doesn’t kill 100% of everything the water carries?

Correct. It’s highly unlikely hundreds if not thousands of hatched eggs will pass through the uv without at least one finding a host and restarting the cycle

 

[EnterName]

Hi, I don’t mean to hijack the conversation but this triggered a question I’ve had about UV’s. I’ve never used one and my understanding is they sanitize water by killing off anything living in the water it treats.

If that’s right it would kill free floating parasites, bacteria and viruses. Right?

I have seen threads where people running UV’s have serious ick outbreaks. Or where someone with an ich outbreak is recommended to add a UV. But from what I’ve seen reading the threads it doesn’t seem to help with ich or anything else I’ve seen written up. Am I missing something?

It’s a great tool in ich management in that it kills free floating theront. It will in no way cure ich or help once ich has already attached to its host. It will reduce its offspring once they hatch and begin its swimming stage, hence the management part. Numbers will be reduced but ich will likely always be in the system

Is this because not all the water passes through the UV over a given time or that it doesn’t kill 100% of everything the water carries?

Both. Not everything dies after contact with UV and not everything will pass through the UV.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Both. Not everything dies after contact with UV and not everything will pass through the UV.

I think they get sterilized/damaged and not instantly killed.

 

[sgdnycct]

Got it! Thank you all for the responses!

It does lead me to another question. Will the UV affect the good stuff as well as the bad? Ie pods, beneficial bacteria, coralline algae spores?

 

[EnterName]

Both. Not everything dies after contact with UV and not everything will pass through the UV.

I think they get sterilized/damaged and not instantly killed.

Depends on various factors afaik. Everything has a probability but in the end there is still a chance that something passes through without enough damage to stop it from spreading further.

 

[coralSLover]

It’s always good to have and not need then need and not have.

I run UV for 8 hours every night (as some parasites nocturnally reproduce). If there are any events that go up, I run UV for 24 hours. Bulbs lifespan are on an hour rating, so at 8 hours a night, it’s good for 3 years.

If you have fish you care about, add livestock regularly, or just want clearer water and fewer “random issues,” UV is worth it. For very small or minimalist systems, it’s optional. Think of UV as insurance, not treatment.

If you run one, size it a bit bigger than recommended and keep flow slow — that’s where people usually go wrong.

 

[sgdnycct]

It’s always good to have and not need then need and not have.

I run UV for 8 hours every night (as some parasites nocturnally reproduce). If there are any events that go up, I run UV for 24 hours. Bulbs lifespan are on an hour rating, so at 8 hours a night, it’s good for 3 years.

If you have fish you care about, add livestock regularly, or just want clearer water and fewer “random issues,” UV is worth it. For very small or minimalist systems, it’s optional. Think of UV as insurance, not treatment.

If you run one, size it a bit bigger than recommended and keep flow slow — that’s where people usually go wrong.

Thanks for that tip. It makes sense that the longer the water is exposed to the light the higher the chance of anything being irradiated.

I’ve never had a ich outbreak but I’ve just upgraded to a much larger tank and will be adding livestock for some time to come. I’m worried my luck might run out. I’ve been thinking of adding a UV to add an extra layer of protection.

 

[MikeReefs]

Thanks for that tip. It makes sense that the longer the water is exposed to the light the higher the chance of anything being irradiated.

I’ve never had a ich outbreak but I’ve just upgraded to a much larger tank and will be adding livestock for some time to come. I’m worried my luck might run out. I’ve been thinking of adding a UV to add an extra layer of protection.

Best layer of protection is QT or buying from trusted QT venders. You’ll pay a bit more but it’s worth not having parasites in your system

 

[MikeReefs]

Those that run UV 24/7 how’s your pod population after adding one, this is probably my only concern. If I do purchase one it’ll probably only be used as needed