Toxin in tank, corals dying, fish dead

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javisaman

javisaman

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I'll read through the thread. I'm not quite sure I have the diagnosis right of dinos either. The best I could do was with a hobby-grade microscope at 400x indicating something like dinoflagellate ostreopsis. It mentioned in my original thread it could be the splashless bleach I used for my filter socks. It could even be where I got my rocks from (a giant tub in a hobbyist's backyard that had been from a tank 8 years old). Who knows if the rocks were exposed to things in the air (acid rain, pesticides, etc) that only seem to show up now and not after months of cleaning and curing. It could be the marine pure putting in dust into the aquarium and my pumps not sufficiently keeping it suspended to be filtered out. There are a lot of hypotheses but I haven't figured it out yet.
 
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javisaman

javisaman

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I’m guessing if you submerged the waterpik it’s a non corded , rechargeable? waterproof version? If so have you noticed any Battery leakage possibly lithium?

Yes it's the handheld version with ipx7 waterflosser:

The idea came from another hobbyist on this forum. No battery leakage. It still works fine. If there was any short in the batteries Lithium-ion tends to have an expansion/explode characteristic. I can recreate the same sort of irritant in the water column using a turkey baster/tooth brush.
 
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javisaman

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Id call those fish mighty prepped, that's ten times the avg prep


wanted to show you something, knowing your updates. for musings and for similarities


can you ignore the eight pages of flame here as we vied for causatives but check out his presentation reason, same as yours

all he did was cast a handful of old sand once, into his new tank, doing fine just before, and all his fish died


fine before handful old sand

all dead after. simple as that

what you are cleaning out of live rock is indeed found compacted in layers in old tank sand, no?

your assessment seems very linked to that loss as well. good call

even though these losses are devastating the patterns alone help the hobby, in prevention. in our whole sand rinse/replacement thread the #1 rule above all is cast about no waste. your assessment sounds spot on. for eight pages the refs simply would not have it: cannot be the casted sand.


but we think varying states of bacterial rot can matter, can irritate and kill.

*they did sway me originally from thinking it was nh3 raw ammonia though. the little he could transmit in that handful would be quickly eaten up per my own prior proofing.

has to be something more concentrated in the detritus than basic ammonia. your thread is really good.


I should also mention that I tested for ammonia after I noticed the first fish dead (within 3 hours of the waterchange), there was no ammonia using my Salifert test.
 
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javisaman

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Today I installed my lifegard promax amalgam 55w sterilizer. I'm using an ecotech vectra s2 pump to drive it and I have it running as a separate closed-loop from my display tank (i.e. not going through sump at all). When started within 2 hours all of the coral closed up a bit. I thought that was a result of the extra flow/maybe clarity. I l left it running for most of the day. I saw that the corals completely closed after about 7 hrs and the clownfish was freaking out. It was darting around and its fins were kind of pinched. The anthias seem fine. I turned off both the pump and the uv light for tonight until I can figure out what's going on.

I did test for stray voltage. But I realized I've been doing it wrong for all this time. I was using DC instead of AC to measure. My multimeter only supports 200V or 600V AC measurements. Nonetheless with the UV and pump on my tank's stray voltage was measured at 0.1V, but I think this is inaccurate. I've ordered another multimeter, which should be more precise to see what is going on. Any other ideas?
 
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That1guy07

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Hi All,

Sorry for a second thread. I've been posting regularly to my other thread about struggles with what I suspect are dinoflagelletes here. Since the beginning of that post I've lost all of my SPS, many of my LPS and zoas. After a disaster last night, I thought I should post a more recent thread.

I've tried numerous things (not at the same time):
  1. Small water changes
  2. Large water changes with siphoning out as much as possible
  3. No water changes. Measuring phosphate and nitrate every day and dosing Microbacter7 (daily) and/or Dr.Tim's Refresh (weekly)
Yesterday after a couple of weeks with the third one I thought I would try and do a large waterchange since hair algae had taken over. This was approximately 40% (I did the math wrong in my original thread). I made sure that the salinity (1.026) and temp were exactly the same betwwen the tank and the brute trashcan (I use this from the beginning to hold RO/DI). I even tested the salinity and temp of the tank after doing the water change.

Parameters so far:
Alk 7.0 (Hanna)
Phosphate 0.06 (Hanna)
Nitrate 4ppm to 8ppm (Red Sea Pro)
Salinity 1.026 (Milwaukee and Refractometer, both calibrated)
Ammonia 0 (Salifert)

My corals do not look better or worse from the water change. My inverts like cleaner shrimp, hermits, and snails unchanged.
However, 3 of 5 my fish have died overnight. I've had them for over 8 months all have been fully quarantined with copper and prazipro.

I suspect two things might have caused the issue and I'm hoping someone can give me some insight on how to proceed.
  1. Part of the procedure for my water change. Use waterproof handheld waterpik to blast the rocks clean of dinos, scrub and pull hair algae. All of this was done with the pumps on and with a water stone. I kept my skimmer, carbon reactor, and filter socks (10u) in the sump. This may have caused a large die-off causing gill damage to fish. However, I would expect there to be ammonia in the tank.
  2. There is a contaminant in my RO/DI water. I replaced all filters last month and bought the BRS 5-stage kit for chloramines. I've never registered more than 0TDS from my water. However, is there a chance something like chlorine can still make it? Or some other contaminent?
Pretty heartbroken that this has gone on for months and everything is basically dead. I would like to try again, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be successful.

I am a scientist and am willing to try anything and everything to figure this out, so all suggestions are welcome.
You think there are nutrients in your dead rock? (If you have any) Thats my only experience with hair algae was from my dead rock. As for the RODI water, did your city add something in your water that can bypass the system? Sometimes some cities dose low amounts of mercury into their water. Im pretty sure mercury is an element that can get past an RODI unit. If that's the case then yikes
 

Zagreus

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Smart your getting another multimeter. I may have missed this but what are the stats on your system and how old is it. I thought i saw you post your using 8 year old live rock that may have been cured outdoors? Can you clarify that please and if you are using sand or barebottom. Also have you been using any chemicals like red sea nopox or vodka, gfo, Linthicum Cloride?
 
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