Treating mandarin and Green Spotted Puffer

schafon

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Hi everyone!

I recently had an outbreak of ick or velvet + what looks like bacterial infection in my display after getting new fish.
(White spots on some of the fish, scratching on rock, black areas on fish tail, white fungal like growth)
I've managed to get some extra time to setup the hospital tank by using Polyp Lab Medic, but it wasn't enough to keep the white spots away.

I've removed all fish that can be treated with copper and put them in my old 120G and raised copper slowly to 1.94 (the fish look very good now, no spots, all active).
The reason I didn't go above 2.0 is that I have a 6 line wrasse in there and I was advised not to go beyond 2.0.

I also have 2 target mandarin and Green Spotted Puffer (acclimated from fresh water a long time ago) that I want to treat (Currently in a different tank 40G).
I was thinking of doing a Hybrid TTM but I'm not sure if the puffer and dragonets will tolerate it.
I plan on moving the wrasse that is currently in copper to the other tank with the puffer and mandarin so I can increase the copper to 2.3, but I want to have a plan before doing so.

I've noticed that the puffer was not doing so well lately (even before I moved him to the 40G) I'm not sure if this got anything to do with my water quality, stress from moving tanks or a disease.
He has less appetite, I've caught him sleeping on the sand with his tail wrapped on the side of his body, scared of me, hiding, dark belly most of the day, not active as always.
I understand that puffers and dragonets have more resistance to ick and velvet, is that true?

My question is, what would be the best plan of action to treat those hard to treat fish? I'm going fallow on my DT and don't want to introduce possible parasite hosts back after all that.


Side story about the puffer:
I've upgraded my tank from 120G to a new 200G and on the first day of setting the tank I used a pump as a power head, the pump had a round 1/2 inch inlet.
While working on things I've noticed that the pump was not pushing water, I took a closer look and found out that the puffer was sucked in the inlet, only half of his 1/3 of his body was showing, he looked dead and inflated.
I've turned off the pump, blow air in the outlet to push him out and he fall to the sand on his back breathing heavily still inflated where his body was outside the pump, I was convinced I lost him, I've considered euthanasia, but every time I've checked on him he looked me in the eyes and gave me hope.
After couple of hours I've saw him swimming, 2 days later and he was acting completely normal and eating :)


Thanks!
 

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vetteguy53081

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Hi everyone!

I recently had an outbreak of ick or velvet + what looks like bacterial infection in my display after getting new fish.
(White spots on some of the fish, scratching on rock, black areas on fish tail, white fungal like growth)
I've managed to get some extra time to setup the hospital tank by using Polyp Lab Medic, but it wasn't enough to keep the white spots away.

I've removed all fish that can be treated with copper and put them in my old 120G and raised copper slowly to 1.94 (the fish look very good now, no spots, all active).
The reason I didn't go above 2.0 is that I have a 6 line wrasse in there and I was advised not to go beyond 2.0.

I also have 2 target mandarin and Green Spotted Puffer (acclimated from fresh water a long time ago) that I want to treat (Currently in a different tank 40G).
I was thinking of doing a Hybrid TTM but I'm not sure if the puffer and dragonets will tolerate it.
I plan on moving the wrasse that is currently in copper to the other tank with the puffer and mandarin so I can increase the copper to 2.3, but I want to have a plan before doing so.

I've noticed that the puffer was not doing so well lately (even before I moved him to the 40G) I'm not sure if this got anything to do with my water quality, stress from moving tanks or a disease.
He has less appetite, I've caught him sleeping on the sand with his tail wrapped on the side of his body, scared of me, hiding, dark belly most of the day, not active as always.
I understand that puffers and dragonets have more resistance to ick and velvet, is that true?

My question is, what would be the best plan of action to treat those hard to treat fish? I'm going fallow on my DT and don't want to introduce possible parasite hosts back after all that.


Side story about the puffer:
I've upgraded my tank from 120G to a new 200G and on the first day of setting the tank I used a pump as a power head, the pump had a round 1/2 inch inlet.
While working on things I've noticed that the pump was not pushing water, I took a closer look and found out that the puffer was sucked in the inlet, only half of his 1/3 of his body was showing, he looked dead and inflated.
I've turned off the pump, blow air in the outlet to push him out and he fall to the sand on his back breathing heavily still inflated where his body was outside the pump, I was convinced I lost him, I've considered euthanasia, but every time I've checked on him he looked me in the eyes and gave me hope.
After couple of hours I've saw him swimming, 2 days later and he was acting completely normal and eating :)


Thanks!
For starters, never ramp copper as this can allow a disease to gain resistance making it harder to treat a given disease. Puffers indeed do not do well with copper especially chelated type. In lieu of low copper, you can use General cure which is safe for them and provide added aeration with use of an air stone.
Too many meds and different treatment levels can cause more problems than solution
 
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schafon

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So in case of active disease I should just put the fish in 2.0 copper?
And is the General Cure is also safe for the mandarins?
And just to make sure, you think I should not move the wrasse to the other tank and treat with general cure?

Thanks!
 

Jay Hemdal

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Hi everyone!

I recently had an outbreak of ick or velvet + what looks like bacterial infection in my display after getting new fish.
(White spots on some of the fish, scratching on rock, black areas on fish tail, white fungal like growth)
I've managed to get some extra time to setup the hospital tank by using Polyp Lab Medic, but it wasn't enough to keep the white spots away.

I've removed all fish that can be treated with copper and put them in my old 120G and raised copper slowly to 1.94 (the fish look very good now, no spots, all active).
The reason I didn't go above 2.0 is that I have a 6 line wrasse in there and I was advised not to go beyond 2.0.

I also have 2 target mandarin and Green Spotted Puffer (acclimated from fresh water a long time ago) that I want to treat (Currently in a different tank 40G).
I was thinking of doing a Hybrid TTM but I'm not sure if the puffer and dragonets will tolerate it.
I plan on moving the wrasse that is currently in copper to the other tank with the puffer and mandarin so I can increase the copper to 2.3, but I want to have a plan before doing so.

I've noticed that the puffer was not doing so well lately (even before I moved him to the 40G) I'm not sure if this got anything to do with my water quality, stress from moving tanks or a disease.
He has less appetite, I've caught him sleeping on the sand with his tail wrapped on the side of his body, scared of me, hiding, dark belly most of the day, not active as always.
I understand that puffers and dragonets have more resistance to ick and velvet, is that true?

My question is, what would be the best plan of action to treat those hard to treat fish? I'm going fallow on my DT and don't want to introduce possible parasite hosts back after all that.


Side story about the puffer:
I've upgraded my tank from 120G to a new 200G and on the first day of setting the tank I used a pump as a power head, the pump had a round 1/2 inch inlet.
While working on things I've noticed that the pump was not pushing water, I took a closer look and found out that the puffer was sucked in the inlet, only half of his 1/3 of his body was showing, he looked dead and inflated.
I've turned off the pump, blow air in the outlet to push him out and he fall to the sand on his back breathing heavily still inflated where his body was outside the pump, I was convinced I lost him, I've considered euthanasia, but every time I've checked on him he looked me in the eyes and gave me hope.
After couple of hours I've saw him swimming, 2 days later and he was acting completely normal and eating :)


Thanks!

Which copper product are you using?
Wrasse can be dosed up to 2.5 ppm with coppersafe if the disease doesn't resolve at 2

TTM is a possibility for the puffer and mandarin IF you have a disease-free tank to move them into afterwards.

General Cure is safe for mandarins but does not work for ich.

Puffers are not at all resistant to ich, although mandarins are to some extent.

Jay
 
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schafon

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Hi Jay!
I'm using copper power because thats the copper you recommend in your videos and forum posts.
The wrasse didn't show any signs of ick or other disease in the display, actually, the only ones to show signs of ick was the purple tang, the purple Dottyback and towards the move to the hospital tank my powder blue (He is one of the new guys and probably the reason for the outbreak).

This was the first symptom I saw in the tank, looks like Lymphocystis to me:
1688310035912.png

This is the fungal growth I've talked about:
1688309990904.png

This is the purpule tank with with the white spots, notice the split tail, to my suprise it was healed after day or two.
1688310216912.png

1688310305343.png

1688310322001.png



I had one 120G tank with all of my fish and corals, I've moved everything from that tank to the new 200G one.
Then I had the fish disease so I moved all fish to the old 120 and the puffer and mandarin to a 40G. Then my corals all looked really bad So i moved them to a different tank (30G) for KFC dip.
I know i'll need another tank for the TTM but i'm running out of space here :grinning-face-with-sweat:


With copper power do you reccommend I increase the dose with the wrasse in to 2.3? Right now shw looks fine and eating, she is in the sump (I have a hog fish that she doesn't like)
 

Jay Hemdal

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Hi Jay!
I'm using copper power because thats the copper you recommend in your videos and forum posts.
The wrasse didn't show any signs of ick or other disease in the display, actually, the only ones to show signs of ick was the purple tang, the purple Dottyback and towards the move to the hospital tank my powder blue (He is one of the new guys and probably the reason for the outbreak).

This was the first symptom I saw in the tank, looks like Lymphocystis to me:
1688310035912.png

This is the fungal growth I've talked about:
1688309990904.png

This is the purpule tank with with the white spots, notice the split tail, to my suprise it was healed after day or two.
1688310216912.png

1688310305343.png

1688310322001.png



I had one 120G tank with all of my fish and corals, I've moved everything from that tank to the new 200G one.
Then I had the fish disease so I moved all fish to the old 120 and the puffer and mandarin to a 40G. Then my corals all looked really bad So i moved them to a different tank (30G) for KFC dip.
I know i'll need another tank for the TTM but i'm running out of space here :grinning-face-with-sweat:


With copper power do you reccommend I increase the dose with the wrasse in to 2.3? Right now shw looks fine and eating, she is in the sump (I have a hog fish that she doesn't like)

So - I have much more experience with coppersafe over copper power. I'm relying on reports from others that it is essentially the same product as coppersafe.

I don't see any obvious Lymphocystis on those fish (usually you see that as a cauliflower growth on the fins) but the powder blue has a mild case of ich.

The firefish may well have flukes, based on those three spots on its tail. TTM won't help with flukes though. Prazipro with GOOD aeration is the usual treatment for that.

Jay
 
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schafon

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I'm planning on treating all the fish for flukes after I finish with the copper.
And I was advised to treat the puffer and mandarin with general cure, what exactly will it cure in my case?
 
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schafon

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So - I have much more experience with coppersafe over copper power. I'm relying on reports from others that it is essentially the same product as coppersafe.

I don't see any obvious Lymphocystis on those fish (usually you see that as a cauliflower growth on the fins) but the powder blue has a mild case of ich.

The firefish may well have flukes, based on those three spots on its tail. TTM won't help with flukes though. Prazipro with GOOD aeration is the usual treatment for that.

Jay
Sorry for the confusion, I was thinking of humble fish :grinning-face-with-sweat:
 

Jay Hemdal

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I'm planning on treating all the fish for flukes after I finish with the copper.
And I was advised to treat the puffer and mandarin with general cure, what exactly will it cure in my case?
General Cure does not treat ich. It is praziquantel (for flukes) and metronidazole (mostly for internal protozoans).

Jay
 
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schafon

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Thanks!
Is general cure a good way to treat everything else after I'm done with copper? or there is another medicine I should dose after copper?
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thanks!
Is general cure a good way to treat everything else after I'm done with copper? or there is another medicine I should dose after copper?
General Cure is a good option after copper, dose it twice, 8 days apart for flukes.
Jay
 

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