Tuning your CalRx | Alternate method thats too easy

[biecacka]

I would think you have to slow your bubble count. It’s coming down fast. More bubbles push it down faster.

I'm getting one Bubble about every 10 seconds. Slow it down even more?

GoVols, how do you keep yours with gradual curveslike that?

Corey

 

[GoVols]

I'm getting one Bubble about every 10 seconds. Slow it down even more?

GoVols, how do you keep yours with gradual curveslike that?

Corey

Corey,

After I found the correct melting point for my reef, I left the (tiny) constant output stream alone, but started to dial back the regulators bubble count. I liked the flat line but if the bubble count slowed down then the ph would keep rising. So, I sped it back up a tad and now the solenoid stays on about 50% of the time. About 20 mins on and about 20 mins off.

Really nice regulator and it came with a six year warranty from Green Leaf Aquariums. Probably went overkill on that purchase, but I've always liked GLA regulators. GLA also has second to none customer service and that means a lot to myself.

Freddie

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

it is controlled by ph using my Apex.
yes it is turned on at 10am and off 22:00 to prevent low pH issue at night . is the right thing to do ?

In that case, the control looks perfectly fine to me.

I've not seen many people use a reactor the way you are. It has two plusses and one possible minus.

The pH effect is limited to the day (good) and alk is apparently mostly consumed during the day so you are adding alk when it is most needed (good).

The risk is the possibility for the tank water in the reactor to become anaerobic during the off hours, possibly creating hydrogen sulfide (very bad if it happens).

I'd try occasionally smelling the effluent when it first turns on to see if it smells of rotten eggs at all.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'm getting one Bubble about every 10 seconds. Slow it down even more?

GoVols, how do you keep yours with gradual curveslike that?

Corey

I wouldn't. I see no reason to think you want a slower pH drop in the reactor. Your pH is also hardly moving at all.

The only possibly issue I can see with a fast bubble count is a big pH overshoot to the low side. It doesn't look to me that a range from pH 7.26 to 7.29 is any significant concern.

 

[GoVols]

I wouldn't. I see no reason to think you want a slower pH drop in the reactor. Your pH is also hardly moving at all.

The only possibly issue I can see with a fast bubble count is a big pH overshoot to the low side. It doesn't look to me that a range from pH 7.26 to 7.29 is any significant concern.

+1
One bubble per every ten seconds is already real slow.

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Randy,
On another note:
If someones main displays ph dropped.

Would the corals intake of alk and cal slow down too?

Thanks, Freddie

 

[David Cher]

In that case, the control looks perfectly fine to me.

I've not seen many people use a reactor the way you are. It has two plusses and one possible minus.

The pH effect is limited to the day (good) and alk is apparently mostly consumed during the day so you are adding alk when it is most needed (good).

The risk is the possibility for the tank water in the reactor to become anaerobic during the off hours, possibly creating hydrogen sulfide (very bad if it happens).

I'd try occasionally smelling the effluent when it first turns on to see if it smells of rotten eggs at all.

The thing is that the water is flowing 24/7 why would it be having rotten egg smell ???

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

+1
One bubble per every ten seconds is already real slow.

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Randy,
On another note:
If someones main displays ph dropped.

Would the corals intake of alk and cal slow down too?

Thanks, Freddie

Yes, likely both coral consumption and abiotic precipitation.

That's why, when folks like Jim Welsh monitor alk and find it mostly drops during the day, it isn't clear why. It could be that:

1. Corals calcify faster when they are also photosynthesizing since there is a strong potential cross connection between these processes.
2. Corals calcify faster during the day only because the bulk water pH is higher
3. Abiotic precipitation is a main driver of the consumption, and it happens more when pH is higher.

An offset experiment with pH lowering during the main tank light cycle would help determine which it is, but can be tricky to set up.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The thing is that the water is flowing 24/7 why would it be having rotten egg smell ???

Oh, if you keep water flowing, that's fine. In fact, its a very good idea!

I thought maybe you stopped the pump too.

 

[David Cher]

Oh, if you keep water flowing, that's fine. In fact, its a very good idea!

I thought maybe you stopped the pump too.

what do you think of this ?

i slowed the bubble rate a little

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

what do you think of this ?

i slowed the bubble rate a little

Seems fine.

 

[reeftivo]

deleted (double entry)

 

[reeftivo]

hey all. i'm going back to my Ca rx from 2 part dosing and planning on trying this method. I'll be using a milwaukee pH controller only (reef angel controller fried-my fault).

has anyone used a pH controller only, or foresee any issues?

thanks

Tivo

 

[reeftivo]

bump

 

[Singlefin]

You should be fine. An apex is just a fancy controller. Just makes it easier to watch all day.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Most people use a pH controller method these days, rather than bubble counting, but I have no idea if it is actually better.

 

[reeftivo]

thanks for the replies!

reactor is online as of last night. have a redundant check valve that was inline from my old reactor that i need to remove. It appears to be sticking a bit. set my bubble rate off the counter on the regulator to a hair over a bubble a second, but wont see any bubbles coming up through the counter on the "reactor" until pressure gets high enough. Then it unloads in a flurry into the reactor and settles down again. All the while, the counter off the regulator is stable at around a bubble a second. Still tweaking

 

[Reefer1978]

Morning guys and gals. So I am trying this method, but I am still running into issues. I just can't seem to keep the flow consistent. I do have a needle valve, and I got to a small consistent stream, little faster then individual drops. Within 48 hours, I am back to drop by drop. Touch it gently - back to a stream. I really don't want to have to adjust it every other day. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[FarmerTy]

Morning guys and gals. So I am trying this method, but I am still running into issues. I just can't seem to keep the flow consistent. I do have a needle valve, and I got to a small consistent stream, little faster then individual drops. Within 48 hours, I am back to drop by drop. Touch it gently - back to a stream. I really don't want to have to adjust it every other day. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I've had this issue in 2 out of 4 CaRXs I've owned. I tried everything short of a peristaltic pump to fix it. I chalked it up to poor reactor design, an issue with the added CO2 causing pressure issues within the reactor and causing the drip rate to slow over time. What fixed it was buying a known working brand, like Geo, MTC Procal, even a Korallin.

 

[Reefer1978]

I've had this issue in 2 out of 4 CaRXs I've owned. I tried everything short of a peristaltic pump to fix it. I chalked it up to poor reactor design, an issue with the added CO2 causing pressure issues within the reactor and causing the drip rate to slow over time. What fixed it was buying a known working brand, like Geo, MTC Procal, even a Korallin.

This is on GEO 618. So not a brand issue.

 

[FarmerTy]

This is on GEO 618. So not a brand issue.

Well, then back to the drawing board. Sorry I couldn't help.