Turkey moray not eating

[HAAAAAAAA]

It all started from i tried to introduce my eel to my tess and it didn't work out and the tess bit him now he's healing but it's been about 5 to 6 days since he's not eating I figured that it may be because of that introduction but I am also worried that he may have internal parasites I took a look at his poop and they look white like plastic I am also treating him with metronidazole tablets about 1 gram per 20 gallons the tablets don't contain any excipients besides ponceau 4r as a colour coating but I just wash off the colour coating before adding it to the tank I tried to find praziquantel but I can't find it nor is it available near my area. Heres the picture of the poop because I just wanted to confirm if he does have parasites I also tried to feed him live mollies but he wouldn't eat so now they are just swimming around the tank Lol it's the bigger white ones

 

[MnFish1]

I can't tell anything from the poop, and I don't know what a 'tess' is? Does the eel have a visible injury? Treating the tank with metronidazole is not that effective in a display tank. Do you have a picture of the fish and the injury, etc - how long have you had it. Did it ever eat?

 

[HAAAAAAAA]

I can't tell anything from the poop, and I don't know what a 'tess' is? Does the eel have a visible injury? Treating the tank with metronidazole is not that effective in a display tank. Do you have a picture of the fish and the injury, etc - how long have you had it. Did it ever eat?

I got the eel recently around 5 or 6 days ago by Tess I meant the tessalata I have in my 210 gallon with a sump and a canister filter, i thought of introducing the turkey moray into the tank but that didn't go too well i realised the size gap was too much with the tessalata being considerably more bigger and whilest the turkey moray was swimming around the tessalata had gotten a good bite out of him and so since then I removed the turkey moray out and put him in the sump since I didn't have another tank ready so in about 3 days I made a separate tank just for the turkey moray as for the injury it's almost healed here's the pictures of it which I've taken today the first picture I've taken it today and the second picture I took it after the injury

 

[HAAAAAAAA]

As for the eating behaviours I've tried to feed him he does look interested but he just wouldn't eat, I tried squid, shrimp, tilapia, clam, and live mollies he looks interested at them goes around the tank sniffs them up close but just wouldn't eat them I got worried since the last time my tessalata had gone on a hunger strike he only lasted 4 days without food but the turkey being smaller I figured that it would harm him if he stayed longer without food

 

[vetteguy53081]

Tessal

It all started from i tried to introduce my eel to my tess and it didn't work out and the tess bit him now he's healing but it's been about 5 to 6 days since he's not eating I figured that it may be because of that introduction but I am also worried that he may have internal parasites I took a look at his poop and they look white like plastic I am also treating him with metronidazole tablets about 1 gram per 20 gallons the tablets don't contain any excipients besides ponceau 4r as a colour coating but I just wash off the colour coating before adding it to the tank I tried to find praziquantel but I can't find it nor is it available near my area. Heres the picture of the poop because I just wanted to confirm if he does have parasites I also tried to feed him live mollies but he wouldn't eat so now they are just swimming around the tank Lol it's the bigger white ones

tessalata as most eels can go a week or two without food but assure there is no infection holding it back
General cure is a safe treatment with these specimens

 

[lion king]

I have often described an indicator of internal parasites looking like white shredded plastic around the tank. Here's the thing, general cure is more effective because it contains prazi and metro, and we are likely not going to determine exactly what type if parasites we are dealing with. I have used both separately with mixed results, sometimes needing to add the other to completely clear.

With eels it's tricky, while the parasites may clear within a couple of days, that doesn't mean they will immediately eat. The change in environment and previously stress can still have lingering effects to prevent them eating.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

It all started from i tried to introduce my eel to my tess and it didn't work out and the tess bit him now he's healing but it's been about 5 to 6 days since he's not eating I figured that it may be because of that introduction but I am also worried that he may have internal parasites I took a look at his poop and they look white like plastic I am also treating him with metronidazole tablets about 1 gram per 20 gallons the tablets don't contain any excipients besides ponceau 4r as a colour coating but I just wash off the colour coating before adding it to the tank I tried to find praziquantel but I can't find it nor is it available near my area. Heres the picture of the poop because I just wanted to confirm if he does have parasites I also tried to feed him live mollies but he wouldn't eat so now they are just swimming around the tank Lol it's the bigger white ones

You cannot determine if fish feces contain parasites unless you look at a fresh sample under a microscope. The three most common issues are: protozoans, worms or bacteria. You can see the protozoans moving under the microscope. You usually will not see the worms, but you can see their eggs. Bacteria takes species staining and a powerful microscope to see, and then, you won't know if you are looking at good or bad bacteria.

Fish that are not eating often produce mucus feces. Eels can go months without eating and then start back up again (I've seen up to four months in more own fish).

Here is an excerpt from an article I wrote about mucus in feces:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.

Jay

 

[HAAAAAAAA]

Thank you guys so much for the help and information

After much hassle I bumped the temp to 32c (89f) as to kill any parasites and to boost it's metabolism, the eel finally ate 2 live mollies and a piece of squid though it's a bit concerning for my fingers that the eel chose to eat through my fingers instead of tongs, the first molly I fed it by itself, after seeing the first molly being eaten i socked the second molly in a deworming solution for about 1 or 2 minutes and fed it to the moray I also fed a bit of squid as to add nutrition, the mollies were originally freshwater and I put them directly in saltwater as to kill any freshwater internal or external parasites though I hope the mollies didn't catch any parasites whilest being in saltwater for a day

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thank you guys so much for the help and information

After much hassle I bumped the temp to 32c (89f) as to kill any parasites and to boost it's metabolism, the eel finally ate 2 live mollies and a piece of squid though it's a bit concerning for my fingers that the eel chose to eat through my fingers instead of tongs, the first molly I fed it by itself, after seeing the first molly being eaten i socked the second molly in a deworming solution for about 1 or 2 minutes and fed it to the moray I also fed a bit of squid as to add nutrition, the mollies were originally freshwater and I put them directly in saltwater as to kill any freshwater internal or external parasites though I hope the mollies didn't catch any parasites whilest being in saltwater for a day

Oh - raising the temperature that high is never a good idea. The dissolved oxygen level will drop and any parasites present will just reproduce faster. This is misapplied advice for treating freshwater ich. It turns out that freshwater ich dies out at around 86 degrees, so raising the water temperature works well. For marine ich and many other diseases, the higher water temperature is actually their preferred range, so they do better.

Jay

 

[HAAAAAAAA]

Oh - raising the temperature that high is never a good idea. The dissolved oxygen level will drop and any parasites present will just reproduce faster. This is misapplied advice for treating freshwater ich. It turns out that freshwater ich dies out at around 86 degrees, so raising the water temperature works well. For marine ich and many other diseases, the higher water temperature is actually their preferred range, so they do better.

Jay

Omg wow I did not know that, thanks so much i will slowly lower the temperature once I get back home

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Omg wow I did not know that, thanks so much i will slowly lower the temperature once I get back home

81 will be a good compromise.
Jay