Tyler's 220 gallon in wall build thread!

[nereefpat]

I need help.

So I decided to add a Redsea roller mat 1200, to get away from socks.

I wish I had some experience with mats, so I could be more helpful. I'm sockless and matless.

That's under normal operation with the return pump on? I would want the water level in the box to be just below the teeth.

If you take the gooseneck off the siphon line, I think you'll be pulling a vortex from the surface in your situation.

The system was working fine before with filter socks?

 

[TK_KW]

My recent Neptune experiences.

-My apex base
Base unit kept disconnecting from fusion. When it dropped off connection from the internet. Id have to go through the process of wifi setup mode. Problem was, every time you'd hold down to button to get the base unit into wifi setup mode. It wouldn't actually enter the mode. After two tickets later, the solution was to send in my base unit! They recommend I run a second apex base unit. Not that you cant run one, but for the number of modules I use to run 4 tanks, they recommended this. Which technically it is a single point of failure, so I agreed. But what a nightmare switching everything from one base unit. Into two new apex base units(one brand new, one a loaner while mine is sent out).
Good thing I'm well versed in the programming side of things. It all worked out great. But I only learned after the fact there is a easier way to drag from one unit to another somehow. If i have to do it again, that's what id do.

-Trident
My magnetic stirrer started acting up, and continually stirring inside a dry vile. And for awhile my readings had been off so I created a ticket. Being as my Trident was a year and a half old it was recommended to get serviced. I choose to send mine out, get serviced, and get mine sent back to me.
When a received mine back, lets just say it slipped through the cracks in the quality control areas. I made a post regarding it here on r2r. I'm a firm believer in the power of social media can have to a product. After my post I received a phone call from Utah explaining that this was clearly a misstep on their end and they wanted to make it right. A friend of mine who orders direct from Neptune reps confirmed the individual who called me is the one who monitors their socials.
After a few more emails and another phone call. I received a brand new Trident with an additional 2month reagents, on top of the one I received back after service, and a Neptune control freak t shirt. I'm very happy they did the right thing and replace the Trident itself.

 

[TK_KW]

I wish I had some experience with mats, so I could be more helpful. I'm sockless and matless.

That's under normal operation with the return pump on? I would want the water level in the box to be just below the teeth.

If you take the gooseneck off the siphon line, I think you'll be pulling a vortex from the surface in your situation.

The system was working fine before with filter socks?

Ya no real reason that the water level couldn't be higher. That's just the way it worked out when I first set up the system. It runs fairly quite.

Yes everything was fine running with socks. I completely over looked the fact that the main syphon could cause air lock being lower in the water. To late now I ripped out my baffles lol.

 

[HighChiefKC]

I have terrible issues with my Apex and Wifi, I have it hardwired but it doesn't seem to care. As long as I never make any wifi changes, or the power doesn't go out, all is fine. But man its a pain to rehookup the wifi to the trident. My reset button doesn't seem to work any more, but unplugging power does.

 

[hollback]

How are you getting air in your full siphon drain?

 

[zbryant91]

My water level is just under my weir teeth as well and I believe my 90 degree fittings on #1 are submerged with #2 just slightly higher. Though I have a shadow overflow and not a built in so I'm sure there are differences. I am running 2 clariseas' but I have a synergy reef sump that has a crash box that then feeds into the clariseas' directly through my 1st baffle.

Only thing I can think of is that you are introducing air bubbles with the overflow level being so low since the water is falling from the weir

 

[TK_KW]

My water level is just under my weir teeth as well and I believe my 90 degree fittings on #1 are submerged with #2 just slightly higher. Though I have a shadow overflow and not a built in so I'm sure there are differences. I am running 2 clariseas' but I have a synergy reef sump that has a crash box that then feeds into the clariseas' directly through my 1st baffle.

Only thing I can think of is that you are introducing air bubbles with the overflow level being so low since the water is falling from the weir

I may just try raising the water level in the box, to get closer to the weir. Using new 90s and just dry fitting it all and see if that helps.

Even if the level in the box is low, with the minor amount of air bubbles getting to over flow box. The main syphon runs crystal clear, back to the sump, with no bubbles in the sump. but I see your point.

If both cor 20s are off. Then switched on, its on the initial start up the the number 1 gets air locked.

 

[TK_KW]

I have terrible issues with my Apex and Wifi, I have it hardwired but it doesn't seem to care. As long as I never make any wifi changes, or the power doesn't go out, all is fine. But man its a pain to rehookup the wifi to the trident. My reset button doesn't seem to work any more, but unplugging power does.

I was having to flip my panel breaker off, then back on to get to trick the base unit into entering wifi setup mode. Such a pia. Just create a ticket with Neptune and voice your concerns. They'll most defiantly get to the bottom of it, if their is a problem.

 

[zbryant91]

I may just try raising the water level in the box, to get closer to the weir. Using new 90s and just dry fitting it all and see if that helps.

Even if the level in the box is low, with the minor amount of air bubbles getting to over flow box. The main syphon runs crystal clear, back to the sump, with no bubbles in the sump. but I see your point.

If both cor 20s are off. Then switched on, its on the initial start up the the number 1 gets air locked.

It still doesn't really make sense to me why it would air lock vs just not creating a full siphon and being noisy. The only thing I can figure is that if enough air is stuck in there and the water isn't moving fast enough to push the air up the little peice of red pipe on #1, and #2 is at the same height then I guess the path of least resistance is #2.

 

[zbryant91]

Also, do you have a hole drilled in the top of the 90 on #1? Mine has the U shaped tubes instead of the double 90, but the function is the same and I am pretty sure there's a hole drilled in the top to prevent that. So if you're going to test fit taller pipes, might be worth testing a hole in a 90 to see if that fixes the air lock on startup.

 

[HighChiefKC]

I don't have holes drilled into the top of my 90's, is that my problem? And if so, does only the taller 90 get the hole?

 

[nereefpat]

I don't have holes drilled into the top of my 90's, is that my problem? And if so, does only the taller 90 get the hole?

No, the primary siphon drain should not have a hole in it.

The secondary/trickle on a traditional Bean has a hole with an airline inserted and hanging out, so that it becomes a second siphon when the water level reaches a certain height in an emergency plugged primary situation.

 

[zbryant91]

The video in the link shows the shadow overflow I have, it has a hole in both the U pipes for the primary and secondary and you can see the water level relative to the holes drilled in the tank, which is not as relevant to your setup since you go straight from the weir to the drains.

Some people run the primary with a screen and no double 90 or U pipe; but then you have a screen to maintain, so I'm not a fan of that. If the primary is submerged, it doesn't matter if there's a hole. And if removing the red inlet pipe on the primary isn't enough to allow the siphon to start, I'd add a hole just for peace of mind

 

[saltwaterpicaso]

very nice build have read threw it the last few days at work. i had dino as well i have uv and i stir my sand bed daily i stopped dosing everything but alk cal mag no more probiotics or bacteria just let the tank go and thats when the tank turned itself around. i also did an nsa aquascape and i beleive that did not help not enough bacteria population to keep a healthy tank with that many fish. i went back to a tank loaded with rock

 

[TK_KW]

very nice build have read threw it the last few days at work. i had dino as well i have uv and i stir my sand bed daily i stopped dosing everything but alk cal mag no more probiotics or bacteria just let the tank go and thats when the tank turned itself around. i also did an nsa aquascape and i beleive that did not help not enough bacteria population to keep a healthy tank with that many fish. i went back to a tank loaded with rock

From my situation with the Dinos. I had them for months and months. But after my failed attempts at doctor Tims and other snake oil. I think what solved them in my case was I kept nutrients up. And ran U.V's. Then I sat back and let the tank do its thing. They eventually cleared up on their own and I havnt seen them since.

 

[JoshH]

I would get rid of the U shaped pipe and raise the water level in your overflow box. Should resolve any airlock issues. You'll need to raise your U pipe on the secondary a fair bit though.

 

[TK_KW]

PROBLEM SOLVED

So after messing around with different depths the drain sat in the sump. And with heights of the goose necks. It works.

I initially wanted to have the reefmat sit on the bottom of sump with the legs, but with my limited space, I had to revert hanging it on the sump. As @zbryant91 mentioned trying a hole in the number 1, that seemed to fix airlock, but created another problem with the hole. From there I switched out my grey sch 40 90s for abs ones. To create a tighter goose neck so the main siphon could sit as low as possible in overflow box. From there I had to get the heights right so the hole in the top of the abs 90s wasn't sucking air, but also having the secondary high enough that it didn't start draining. They sit about 2.5" difference in height.

Picture now shows my operating level in overflow box. Nice and silent. My install comes with a couple cons. My skimmer cup cant get out without removing roller wheel. Second, ill have to rework my acrylic that I had protecting my sump from my kids tossing things in the sump, but all and all no big deal.

 

[TK_KW]

I would get rid of the U shaped pipe and raise the water level in your overflow box. Should resolve any airlock issues. You'll need to raise your U pipe on the secondary a fair bit though.

Long time no speak, How are thing and the family? And ummmm, I think we all need an update for your tank

 

[zbryant91]

Very nice. Filter rollers are my favorite thing I added to my tank. Too lazy to change out socks regularly and the sump stays so much cleaner.

 

[TK_KW]

@vetteguy53081, this Goldens swim pattern looks suspect to me, or maybe I'm crazy, but i just noticed this tonight. Finished 14 days of copper and transfered to sterile system. This is three days out of copper now.

#reefsquad

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com