URGENT: Mardel Quick Cure or Coopersafe?

[vetteguy53081]

Hey guys,

Fish list -
Blue hippo tang (the one with white spots)
Emperor Angel
Common Foxface
Two Garden Eels
Yellow watchman goby
White Sand Goby
Falco Hawk
Yellow Cory Wrasse
Algae Blenny
Parrotfish
Azure Damsel
Sailfin Tang


Some spots, flashing - I've removed the inverts.
In DT - Can't do QT - no coral, FOWLR.

Mardel Quick Cure or Fritz Coppersafe, please?

Covering Ich and maybe Velvet.

Thank you!

For ich - coppersafe

Flashing may be flukes which would call for PraziPro. Quick cure which is rare to find would be for ich and protozoan as well as brook.
Please post under white lights, no blue a 20-30 second video showing behaviors and flashing described, Hypo is not for all fish and can stress certain species of fish

 

[stageforkids]

You are simply divine - thank you for helping save my babies. I'll read everything again, write them down in fact (I'm a teacher, most of us prefer reading off paper). Will update soon.

If that's the situation then I would actually suggest going the route of hyposalinity since a quality calibrated refractometer/lab grade hydrometer should be accessible (Since the one photo provided doesn't seem to be velvet at all to me). Just make sure you have a good auto top off to consistently maintain the proper salinity of 1.008-1.009 (preferably 1.009) for 35 days after the last spots are fully gone and to very carefully monitor ammonia (Do water changes with 1.008/1.009 salinity water of the same temperature so theres no discrepancys in salinity reading. The clock starts over the moment you go above 1.009)

Having no good method to measure copper makes it pointless+probably more dangerous to use over hypo in this situation.

Paragard to my knowledge is entirely ineffective for marine ich. It's never been my go to for various diseases/maladies so I'm not even sure it does anything for marine fish compared to nitrafurazone/kanamycin (of which these are also ineffective against ich)

Malachite green will stain porous materials but will likely dissapate over time aside from any silicone. Formalin is extremely unstable to my knowledge and will break down fairly quickly.


Just to be as clear as possible, I don't think quick cure will be effective in any shape or form in the display tank for marine ich due to how the life cycle of ich + low concentration of formalin. It's possible that the concentration of formalin in your quick cure could be even lower than my assumed 3% if the bottle has been opened for a long period of time. It will be a waste of time to just dose it in an attempt to slow down the disease.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/I recommend reading this and following this exactly for your situation since I think it's a better option for you with the additional information available. It will cover marine ich + flukes as an added bonus when done properly (but not velvet)

 

[stageforkids]

For ich - coppersafe

Flashing may be flukes which would call for PraziPro. Quick cure which is rare to find would be for ich and protozoan as well as brook.
Please post under white lights, no blue a 20-30 second video showing behaviors and flashing described, Hypo is not for all fish and can stress certain species of fish

Thank you! I did read somewhere hypo can stress certain fish - will need to read that again. I'm concerned for my eels and blenny.
For now, all my fish are eating - I just did a filter, filter socks included, clean, changed some water, ramped up good food and more multivites, and tomorrow I'll see if the biggest LFS has the Hanna.

Will update soon - thank you so much!

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thank you! I did read somewhere hypo can stress certain fish - will need to read that again. I'm concerned for my eels and blenny.
For now, all my fish are eating - I just did a filter, filter socks included, clean, changed some water, ramped up good food and more multivites, and tomorrow I'll see if the biggest LFS has the Hanna.

Will update soon - thank you so much!

If you are treating ich, then coppersafe is the clear choice over quick cure. The latter is malachite green and formalin, that just doesn't work for marine ick. I thought Quick Cure was off the market? Both components in Quick Cure have serious human health issues.

However, I'm concerned that you may not have a good diagnosis here - the one picture isn't clear enough to tell if the tang has ich or something else. Can you post better pics and video please?

If you have multiple eels, you should go with hyposalinity over copper. Hypo will cure flukes AND ich, so that's a benefit if your diagnosis isn't correct.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/

 

[stageforkids]

Hey Jay, thank you! I haven't applied either copper safe or quick cure - I have actually ramped up H2O2 - 5 ml every 3 hours (including midnight, 3 am, 5.30 am) - 1ml 8 gallon, mine is 40 gallon - and Tangy (fish name) is doing much better! Yesterday Lester the algae blenny started rubbing, but not today, and Tangy is doing 90% less, eating like a pig - so glad! I haven't added any fish for months, and I was surprised it (I'm doing ich management) it came back, but then I did some little changes to the rocks, did a large clean, added new live sand, and added new water made from salt of a different brand - so the stress of everything has really got Tangy going pysho, poor baby! I'm going to keep going with this; I was planning on coppersafe today but seeing this progress, I will continue with this for this week. On Sunday, I'll move to 6 hours instead - do you think that's a good idea? I know based on Humblefish's training, they wrote to ramp things up (increase dosage and shorten the time between dosing) but I went from 12 hours, to 3 hours immediately, so that's helping. Advice please, guys? Thank you!


OH ALSO - one question. The water's good still - I'm doing 6 hourly water changes (5%) - it feels so wasted - so do you think I could treat the water with hydrogen peroxide too (in a different container) and reuse in future? Probably a dumb idea and question, but better dumb than rash.

Thanks!

If you are treating ich, then coppersafe is the clear choice over quick cure. The latter is malachite green and formalin, that just doesn't work for marine ick. I thought Quick Cure was off the market? Both components in Quick Cure have serious human health issues.

However, I'm concerned that you may not have a good diagnosis here - the one picture isn't clear enough to tell if the tang has ich or something else. Can you post better pics and video please?

If you have multiple eels, you should go with hyposalinity over copper. Hypo will cure flukes AND ich, so that's a benefit if your diagnosis isn't correct.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hey Jay, thank you! I haven't applied either copper safe or quick cure - I have actually ramped up H2O2 - 5 ml every 3 hours (including midnight, 3 am, 5.30 am) - 1ml 8 gallon, mine is 40 gallon - and Tangy (fish name) is doing much better! Yesterday Lester the algae blenny started rubbing, but not today, and Tangy is doing 90% less, eating like a pig - so glad! I haven't added any fish for months, and I was surprised it (I'm doing ich management) it came back, but then I did some little changes to the rocks, did a large clean, added new live sand, and added new water made from salt of a different brand - so the stress of everything has really got Tangy going pysho, poor baby! I'm going to keep going with this; I was planning on coppersafe today but seeing this progress, I will continue with this for this week. On Sunday, I'll move to 6 hours instead - do you think that's a good idea? I know based on Humblefish's training, they wrote to ramp things up (increase dosage and shorten the time between dosing) but I went from 12 hours, to 3 hours immediately, so that's helping. Advice please, guys? Thank you!


OH ALSO - one question. The water's good still - I'm doing 6 hourly water changes (5%) - it feels so wasted - so do you think I could treat the water with hydrogen peroxide too (in a different container) and reuse in future? Probably a dumb idea and question, but better dumb than rash.

Thanks!

Hydrogen peroxide is tricky to use, I wouldn’t rely on it to water of any disease for later reuse.

The problem is that peroxide, at levels safe for fish, doesn’t kill the resting stage of the ick parasite.

The biggest issue with peroxide is that the amount of reactive peroxide available to work against disease organisms is wholly dependent on the amount of peroxidase in the tank. This comes from algae, bacteria and detritus. No peroxidase means high peroxide levels, high peroxidase decomposes the peroxide before it has a chance to work on the disease. Trouble is - this peroxidase level changes with peroxide additions (it gets used up). A peroxide test strip is really the best way to dose it,

 

[stageforkids]

Hey guys!
As promised, here's an update:

I continued with the H2O2, every 3 hours for 3 days, and then moved to 6 hour doses - and all my fish have recovered, lost just Pepper the peppermint shrimp (which is horrible, he was doing so well) - but only because he was shedding when I started the 3 hourly, and I didn't know or he would have been removed. My baby hermit crab is good though.

All the fish are doing well, the blue hippo tang's spots are gone (in fact, he started eating like a pig again within 24 hours of the 3 hour H2O2 dosing regiment.)

Will continue the 6 hour dosing for a few more days, and then 12 hour dosing for a week.

As you know I'm doing ich management. The tank is currently in my office; and I'm working on sorting out my own place, in the next few months, so that's when I will - hopefully - move from management to eradication, using this current DT into a QT before moving them to the new tank, then disposing the QT - so that's where I will use coppersafe I think, and if I want to add on new fish.

Thanks again everybody; you guys are fish baby savers :)

Cheers!