UV sterilizer dual use schedule for pathogens and algae

blackstallion

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Question, is anyone running a UV sterilizer with a DC pump so they can dial in their flow on a schedule ie. 2 weeks at lower flow and then 2 weeks higher flow to address both?

I realize the general consensus is to pick one and stick with it, BUT, would there not be benefit to running on this type of schedule and make it truly dual use?
 

FishTruck

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I do that. Most of the time I run at high flow for clarification. Then... I get paranoid and think I see as spot on one of my fish and slow the flow down for a few days until I realize I was just being paranoid. This helps be sleep better at night - and did clarify the water.
 

Jon's Reef

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Protozoa require a higher dose and reproduce at a slower rate --> Requires slow flow to achieve high dose, slow repro means that high tank turnover not required

Algae/ Bacteria require a lower dose and reproduce at a higher rate --> Requires high tank turnover to interrupt the reproduction cycle

You will have to adjust your main drain valve if you change the flow rate.
 

Jonify

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I think most UVs are built with a specific contact time spec to get the average best result ... is there a reason you would want to deviate and water that down--on either end?
 
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blackstallion

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I think most UVs are built with a specific contact time spec to get the average best result ... is there a reason you would want to deviate and water that down--on either end?
All UV sterilizers are spec'd with 2 sets of flows, one to address pathogens (lower flow) and one for algea (higher flow).

If you're plumbing it into your return pump/plumbing, then I could understand keeping it dialied into one, BUT with a DC pump, you can have the best of both worlds I would think, at least on a schedule.
 

DaddyFish

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I am running a DC pump on a 32-watt UV, but the pump isn't WiFi. So I have to manually optomize the flow for the desired effect. WiFi or management system enabled would be nice.
 

Jonify

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All UV sterilizers are spec'd with 2 sets of flows, one to address pathogens (lower flow) and one for algea (higher flow).

If you're plumbing it into your return pump/plumbing, then I could understand keeping it dialied into one, BUT with a DC pump, you can have the best of both worlds I would think, at least on a schedule.
Most UV sterilizers marketed for reef tanks purport to do both, at the lower end. (I would not buy a pond sterilizer that just does algae). And with the nano one that I have, it's for both parasites and algae--and has done a great job with both. Even with with the slower ones, you're turning the entire tank's volume over at least 3 times an hour. That's quicker than the rate of reproduction for most organisms in our closed reef systems. There doesn't seem to be anything to gain in our reef system for putting it on DC, unless you're trying to save on utility costs. I'm not sure variable speed is going to get you a better result. And even if that were the case, running it on 12/12, by the end of the day, you're still averaging out to the same speed. What is to be gained by splitting it up for certain hours of the day? (And what's to be lost in efficiency for what the manufacturer already spec'd)?
 
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DaddyFish

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Most UV sterilizers marketed for reef tanks, purport to do both, at the lower end. (I would not buy a pond sterilizer that just does algae). And with the nano one that I have, it's for both parasites and algae--and has done a great job with both. Even with with the slower ones, you're turning the entire tank's volume over at least 3 times an hour. That's quicker than the rate of reproduction for most organisms in our closed reef systems. There doesn't seem to be anything to gain in our reef system for putting it on DC, unless you're trying to save on utility costs. I'm not sure variable speed is going to get you a better results. And even if that were the case, running it on 12/12, by the end of the day, you're still averaging out to the same speed. What is to be gained by splitting it up for certain hours of the day? (And what's to be lost in efficiency for what the manufacturer already spec'd)?
In my case, a DC pump is awesome for dialing in the flow exactly where you want it.
 

SPR1968

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I would just run in 24/7 at the best kill rate (slower flow) and then it deal with all issues.

The water will be constantly turning over and you can pretty much just forget about it, just change the bulb at least every 12 months as they become less effective

I use an 80w UVC with a recommended flow of around 2000-4000 for the 2 rates mentioned but I run it at about 1400 lph for maximum effect
 

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Yea... you could run it at protozoan rate.... if you get an occasional bacteria bloom, crank the flow until the water clears.

Since I got mine to clear a bacteria bloom - I run it on the flip side of that. But - I do advocate running it on and independent DC pump. The point is... that you can find a DC pump on Amazon that at the lowest rate will roast your protozoans and at the highest rate can handle bacteria in the water column.
 
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blackstallion

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I would just run in 24/7 at the best kill rate (slower flow) and then it deal with all issues.

The water will be constantly turning over and you can pretty much just forget about it, just change the bulb at least every 12 months as they become less effective

I use an 80w UVC with a recommended flow of around 2000-4000 for the 2 rates mentioned but I run it at about 1400 lph for maximum effect
I don't believe this is true though, running at the slower GPH to deal with all issues ie. pathogens AND algae.

I'm not sure about the science behind it, BUT, from my understanding, the UV will only be effective at killing pathogens at the slower rate and algae/bacteria at the higher flow rates. Unfortunately, you can't have the best of both worlds...unless someone with some expertise in this field can chime in and tell us otherwise?
 
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blackstallion

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Yea... you could run it at protozoan rate.... if you get an occasional bacteria bloom, crank the flow until the water clears.

Since I got mine to clear a bacteria bloom - I run it on the flip side of that. But - I do advocate running it on and independent DC pump. The point is... that you can find a DC pump on Amazon that at the lowest rate will roast your protozoans and at the highest rate can handle bacteria in the water column.
I looked into a DC pump to feed a 40W sterilizer and it recommends 157gph to kill pathogens and 943gph for bacteria/algae; couldn't really find anything that could be regulated in that flow range.

Would a ball (or other) valve be advisable in conjunction with either an AC or DC pump to regulate the flow?
 

fishgutz

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I intentionally run two return pumps for various reasons . Each has its own UV. One runs high for algae. The other runs slower for parasites. Averaged out I get the flow I need through my sump. This has worked well for me.
 

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Or, just oversize the UV and run it at the sterilization rate. That’s what I do. Clarification occurs at the sterilization flow, but it may not move enough water through the unit to ‘keep up’ if you have a massive bloom. Massive blooms are rare, and symptomatic of bigger problems, but ......

Larger unit allows you to run at sterilization flow rates but still move enough tank water through the UV without futzing around with multiple flow rates and pumps.
 
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blackstallion

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Or, just oversize the UV and run it at the sterilization rate. That’s what I do. Clarification occurs at the sterilization flow, but it may not move enough water through the unit to ‘keep up’ if you have a massive bloom. Massive blooms are rare, and symptomatic of bigger problems, but ......

Larger unit allows you to run at sterilization flow rates but still move enough tank water through the UV without futzing around with multiple flow rates and pumps.
So assuming my estimate of 200g, what size UV would you recommend as oversized that could be run at the pathogen sterilization rate and also be effective for bacteria/algae? I've been looking into the 40w range UV which is spec'd to about 260g (Pentair).
 

artieg1

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Yeah I just bought an oversized UV and hooked it to my return line. At fastest possible flow, it is still at the sterilization/pathogen flow rate, so no option to make it go faster for algae.
 

ca1ore

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I I'm not sure about the science behind it, BUT, from my understanding, the UV will only be effective at killing pathogens at the slower rate and algae/bacteria at the higher flow rates. Unfortunately, you can't have the best of both worlds...unless someone with some expertise in this field can chime in and tell us otherwise?
So assuming my estimate of 200g, what size UV would you recommend as oversized that could be run at the pathogen sterilization rate and also be effective for bacteria/algae? I've been looking into the 40w range UV which is spec'd to about 260g (Pentair).

An UV will clarify algae/bacteria at sterilization levels certainly, you just need to be moving 2-3 times the tank volume through the unit per hour. I’m using the TMC 110 which recommends 10 gallons per watt per hour for level 1 sterilization, so 1,100 GPH. That means 2.75 for my 400 gallons. For 200 gallons, I’d view 55 watts as ideal to run 550 gph. Also keep in mind that most 200 gallon tanks don’t actually hold 200 gallons so that gives you some wiggle room.
 

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Or, just oversize the UV and run it at the sterilization rate. That’s what I do. Clarification occurs at the sterilization flow, but it may not move enough water through the unit to ‘keep up’ if you have a massive bloom. Massive blooms are rare, and symptomatic of bigger problems, but ......

Larger unit allows you to run at sterilization flow rates but still move enough tank water through the UV without futzing around with multiple flow rates and pumps.
+1 this is what I do as well with an oversized UV.
 

burningmime

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Wouldn’t the slow flow treat both at the same time?

I don’t understand how a fast flow, less time in contact with the light would kill something better than more time in the light?

That would work if you had a big enough (oversized for your tank) UV. But algae and bacteria multiply very fast. If you have 100 GPH going through your high-contact-time UV and a 400G system with cyano multiplying like it's Mardi Gras, they're going to replicate faster than the UV can treat them.

The fast flow/low contact time lets you treat more water with a less expensive light and lower electricity costs if you only care about treating certain types of pests.
 
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