Ok . First then change to a DC pump . much more forgiving . You must have an impeller that relies on an ac magnetic force. then it can get dirty slow down do all sorts of unpredictable things
Varying flow on return pump/overflow
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sgdnycct
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I have a dc pump now. Do you mean even this could have an AC magnet powering the impeller? Sorry I forgot everything I learned about electricity!
Curious what pump you have?
No if you have a DC pump then I am lost
sgdnycct
Well-Known Member
I’m also lost! It is a cheaper Hygger pump so I don’t know if that could be it. But then I’ve seen people who have expensive pumps and still have problems.
Ok I am going over everything because I screwed up. This pump your using is it the piece of garbage I think it is? I see bargain basement prices and a stunningly thought out Tank. I do not use an adjustment valve I only use my speed control ie ac to dc adjustment . I think I am going to gracefully exit because of my ignorance as to your pump which I think is your problem
sgdnycct
Well-Known Member
I always worry about cheap products but Hygger is actually pretty good in general. I’ve seen a number of people using them. So they may not be the best but I don’t think they are garbage. In fact I’ve been using the brand for years.
However I do think maybe some pumps (regardless of brand/cost) are designed in a way that’s more forgiving or maybe a better word is more precise. That’s why I was asking what pump you are using since you said it’s been stable for 8 years.
Would you mind providing that info? I do want to upgrade but I want to get one that won’t also have this issue.
Thanks!
I don't understand the need for a valve at all. the pump adjustment should be enough
I use a Vectra for me an S2 is enough 100 gallon its set at about 1/3
sgdnycct
Well-Known Member
Im a little confused. I checked your tank thread and you switched from freshwater last year and currently don’t have a sumo. Is that right?
If so I don’t think comparing a sump pump to canister or overflow is accurate since they work in completely different ways.
No that is my third Tank . I was trying to show how you can have a Salt Water Tank as cheaply as possible. I found that with the fact that there are Nano tanks no one was interested. The overflow may not be what you think. At any rate with either type you need a sump. For that conversion I made my own Sump. Drilled the main tank , had to drill the back glass as the bottom is tempered. I am surprised you don't
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sgdnycct
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks! Yeah I just clicked on the tank thread and that’s what came up. Maybe I should check as the mobile app is glitchy.No that is my third Tank . I was trying to show how you can have a Salt Water Tank as cheaply as possible. I found that with the fact that there are Nano tanks no one was interested. The overflow may not be what you think. At any rate with either type you need a sump. For that conversion I made my own Sump. Drilled the main tank , had to drill the back glass as the bottom is tempered. I am surprised you don'tsee anything about my 100 Gallon.
I see from your picture you have an external pump. I wonder if that makes a difference. Maybe with no variation in head pressure it stays more stable?
Do you have a submerged return pump that you recommend in your other tanks?
Yes so due to something called “positive suction head” it does not cost any head height to pump water from the bottom of the sump to the sump’s water level, only to pump from the water level to the top of the pipe. If that distance changes much because of the sump return chamber water level, then so does the amount of flow stolen by gravity
No I prefer to have as much as I can external for electrical safety. With my set up ( and I have a coarse sponge filter over the inlet in the Sump ). I do not notice or ever had any issues . Head is the vertical distance from the pump to the outlet . The pressure would change due to frictional loss of the internal surface of the pipe and of course the loss from the fittings . All of which is available if you need it . I suppose the level of the water in the sump would change things to a very small degree . From memory a foot of water adds 3.5 pounds or so . The pump has to draw the water out of the sump so it does effect the overall pressure at the outlet . I have not bothered to calculate it as I am well within the required range to get proper turn over rate. If the water level in the sump goes below the outlet then to regain operation it is a real strain on the pump . The pump shown is Submersible
X-37B
Fight The Good Fight
Question. Why is your retun area fluctuating? I use Tunze Osmo 3's on 4 system. It keeps the return area at the desired level and never fluctuates. I use ac and dc pumps on several systems with no issues.
Gate valves on the overflow with ball valve on the return.
Gate valves on the overflow with ball valve on the return.
sgdnycct
Well-Known Member
That’s the question!!! I don’t know. I’m starting to suspect it’s a varying power on the pump. If you look at the full thread I explained some testing I did. I’ve been able to narrow down the swings but it still goes up and down through changing cycles.
Initial the thought was it’s a valve issue in the overflow into the sump but I’ve pretty much ruled that out.
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