Vectra M2 Output plumbing

[Christopher Poore]

Hello everyone,

I have a Red Sea Reefer with 5/8th tubing for the pump return. I've purchased everything necessary to reduce the output of my Vectra M2 down to 5/8.

My questions are:

How badly am I restricting the GPH output of the pump by reducing the output plumbing?

Should I consider increasing all components to 3/4 or 1 inch to maximize return rate?

 

[Dragon52]

If you want to stay with tubing I would still go up to 3/4. My M1 is hard piped PVC 3/4 to the tank, don't really care for tubing.

 

[Christopher Poore]

If you want to stay with tubing I would still go up to 3/4. My M1 is hard piped PVC 3/4 to the tank, don't really care for tubing.

The only issue is the barb attached to the tank (It's a XL200) is 5/8, so I would need to change that as well.

 

[Dragon52]

So with the tank being 42gl you could probable go with the 5/8 but make sure your not throttling the pump do much. The S1/S2 might have been a better choice for that size tank. I actually have an L1 that I bought originally for my tank but downsized to the M1 but keep the L1 for a backup. I'm still debating on getting the S2 selling the L1 because I run the M1 at about 40% all the time.

 

[Christopher Poore]

So with the tank being 42gl you could probable go with the 5/8 but make sure your not throttling the pump do much. The S1 might have been a better choice for that size tank. I actually have an L1 that I bought originally for my tank but downsized to the M1 but keep the L1 for a backup. I'm still debating on getting the S2 selling the L1 because I run the M1 at about 40% all the time.

I have the M2 from a 57 gallon that I ran @ 100% so it wasn't purchased with the intent to run on a smaller tank. Good point on throttling the pump, any tips to help me recognize if its being throttled?

 

[AcanthurusRex]

Since you will be running the M2 at half flow it will be quiet.
The M1 gets progressively louder with increasing head pressure. I recently got ride of the stock barb since they break after awhile.

 

[Dragon52]

Noise is one way, I would never run a pump at 100%, shortens the life span.

 

[Christopher Poore]

5/8 seems like such a narrow return for a 42 gallon tank which is a bit frustrating.

 

[ca1ore]

Back pressure typically does not damage pumps. Vectra pumps are great pumps in the right application but don’t handle pressure well at all. I think you will lose a ton of flow through 5/8” hose. But it’s only a 42 gallon tank ....

 

[Christopher Poore]

Back pressure typically does not damage pumps. Vectra pumps are great pumps in the right application but don’t handle pressure well at all. I think you will lose a ton of flow through 5/8” hose. But it’s only a 42 gallon tank ....

It's curious that acccording to Red Sea's website, the XL200 is rated up to 2000GPH which is what the Vectra M2 puts out.

Vectra M2 DC Return Pump (2000 GPH)

Note: Legacy Vectra pumps will require a firmware update after purchase to work with Mobius. Firmware Update Instructions Here The World's Smartest Return Pump with Improved Thermals With some of the most advanced pump technology on the market, today Ecotech has stepped it up another notch...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

REEFER G2 | The perfect foundation for any thriving reef

The REEFER G2+ reef tanks combine REEF-SPEC infrastructure with the freedom to install all your preferred hardware.

www.redseafish.com

Recommended flow (lph) (pump not included)​

2000 (530 gph)

 

[ca1ore]

You sure about that .... too lazy to look but I bet it’s 2000 lph ..... which is about 500 gph. You’d need a heck of a pump to get 2000 gph through a 5/8” pipe. Vectra won’t get anywhere close .... maybe 500 gph ... maybe.

 

[Christopher Poore]

You sure about that .... too lazy to look but I bet it’s 2000 lph ..... which is about 500 gph. You’d need a heck of a pump to get 2000 gph through a 5/8” pipe. Vectra won’t get anywhere close .... maybe 500 gph ... maybe.

****, good catch. Yikes so I can only run this pump @ about 1/5 speed.

 

[Jon's Reef]

You can easily unscrew the barb on the return line input, then replace with a 3/4" fitting. Mine was not glued, just had to use 2 wrenches. Bigger restriction is at the top of the return line where it does a 90. Replaced that with a 3/4" threaded 90. For adapting to the nozzle assembly, you need a 3/4" male then cut it so it holds the nut.

Here is the end result:
S2 - AU 25W UV Sterilizer - return line. Stock vs 3/4" fittings. Measured via bucket fill method

 

[Christopher Poore]

You can easily unscrew the barb on the return line input, then replace with a 3/4" fitting. Mine was not glued, just had to use 2 wrenches. Bigger restriction is at the top of the return line where it does a 90. Replaced that with a 3/4" threaded 90. For adapting to the nozzle assembly, you need a 3/4" male then cut it so it holds the nut.

Here is the end result:
S2 - AU 25W UV Sterilizer - return line. Stock vs 3/4" fittings. Measured via bucket fill method

You're saying the Barb at the top of the return vinyl tubing can be easily replaced with a 3/4 fitting? This is what I was trying to achieve initially but could not find any information on what exactly I needed. I currently have a 3/4 barb for my Vectra, but purchased a ton of parts (and next day them) in order to convert the pump output to 5/8.

Is there any way you could link this part for me? Any photos you could share of your setup?

 

[Jon's Reef]

Here is the sump setup:
S2 -> 3/4" Ecotech Barb -> 3/4" 90 deg barb into UV --> 3/4" 90 barb out of UV --> 3/4" tubing --> 3/4" straight barb/ male thread --> Stock adapter with standard barb removed

This is the stock adapter with the small barb

To remove the stock barb, I just took it off at the large hand nut, then used 1 wrench on the adapter and 1 on the fitting. It was tight, but not crazy tight. I would definitely recommend taking it off the pipe as you do not want to loosen the bulkhead.
Here is what I used (elbows were for the UV)

Clear Tubing - Bulk Reef Supply

Shop Clear Tubing at Bulk Reef Supply where we make reefing fun and easy.

www.marinedepot.com

Barbed Fittings - Bulk Reef Supply

Find Barbed Fittings at Bulk Reef Supply to keep your saltwater aquarium looking its best.

www.marinedepot.com

Insert Fitting - Bulk Reef Supply

Shop Insert Fitting at Bulk Reef Supply and get rewarded on every purchase with our Preferred Reefer program.

www.marinedepot.com

For the top side, I saw this post (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/red-sea-reefer-water-return-mod.420517/#post-6013640)

I ended up just using a 3/4" pvc 90 elbow (female thread on both ends) screwed to the top of the pipe with teflon tape. Then used a 3/4" male thread x 1/2" pvc reducer cut as shown in the thread to interface to the ball nozzle. Note that you have to cut it just right, so cut less, then sand it down until perfect.

(the extra 3/4" slip on the emergency makes the main red sea valve adjustment less finnicky)

 

[canadianeh]

Hello everyone,

I have a Red Sea Reefer with 5/8th tubing for the pump return. I've purchased everything necessary to reduce the output of my Vectra M2 down to 5/8.

My questions are:

How badly am I restricting the GPH output of the pump by reducing the output plumbing?

Should I consider increasing all components to 3/4 or 1 inch to maximize return rate?

I would do DIY plumbing and go all 1". Your M2 has great capability and you are restricting of what you paid for by reducing the pipe size.

Check out my build if you want some idea

 

[Christopher Poore]

I would do DIY plumbing and go all 1". Your M2 has great capability and you are restricting of what you paid for by reducing the pipe size.

Check out my build if you want some idea

I currently have 1'' vinyl tubing I can use for the return. I can purchase the M2 barb kit, which has a 1'' barb.

From my understanding all I would need to do is replace the the barb attached to the bulk head to be 1'' as well.

Is it a necessity to replace anything else?
Such as the return plumbing inside of the overflow box, or any other components?
Would the drain section need to be modified at all or would it allow sufficient flow back to the sump?


Edit* what diameter is the return tubing inside of the overflow box? From what I am seeing the 90degreen neck that returns the water would also need to be replaced.

 

[canadianeh]

I currently have 1'' vinyl tubing I can use for the return. I can purchase the M2 barb kit, which has a 1'' barb.

From my understanding all I would need to do is replace the the barb attached to the bulk head to be 1'' as well.

Is it a necessity to replace anything else?
Such as the return plumbing inside of the overflow box, or any other components?
Would the drain section need to be modified at all or would it allow sufficient flow back to the sump?


Edit* what diameter is the return tubing inside of the overflow box? From what I am seeing the 90degreen neck that returns the water would also need to be replaced.

I didn't use the barb so I rather let anyone else that used the same set up as you are asking to response to your question.

I didn't change anything inside the overflow box at all.

 

[Christopher Poore]

I didn't use the barb so I rather let anyone else that used the same set up as you are asking to response to your question.

I didn't change anything inside the overflow box at all.

Isn't the neck at the top of the return a 5/8? So wouldn't you throttle from 1'' from the pump up to the neck of the return down to 5/8?

 

[canadianeh]

Isn't the neck at the top of the return a 5/8? So wouldn't you throttle from 1'' from the pump up to the neck of the return down to 5/8?

I have never seen anyone build on Red Sea Reefer that include changing the original piping inside the overflow box. Which Reefer you have? I think if you change all the piping including the ones inside the overflow box to 1" you will end up with too strong of flow, IMO. I think it will be more complicated too. Anyway, it is your call and you can decide how much work and risk you are willing to undertake. I am not sure how that will play out. Also, you may end up voiding the warranty. By changing only the piping below the tank, you can always convert it back to the original if you wish to.

Like I said, most of the builds on forums that I have seen, they didn't touch the piping inside the overflow box.

Good luck and looking forward to see your tank.