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What should I add? Thinking about retro-ing some T5s
Being from Chicago (inside the city limits) if this house is inside I’m amazed but then again seeing what’s going up around my mothers 1920’s house I shouldn’t be surprised
A person more sane and less desperate than me would probably reach this point and walk away forever.
It’s in the North ShoreBeing from Chicago (inside the city limits) if this house is inside I’m amazed but then again seeing what’s going up around my mothers 1920’s house I shouldn’t be surprised
I’m watching this build. Need help would make me visit my mother more. I’m retired and in Milwaukee
I figured Lake forest MyselfBristle worms? Nah. They’re generally detritivores. I’ve heard of them chomping on clams before, but I’ve seen plenty of tanks with bristle worms in them that had happy clams.
I’m way old school...I just dump live rock in. In a new tank, I don’t even cure it. I use it to get it cycling. I get some unwanted stuff from time to time, but never to the point of having a problem.
One of my old zoology professors was fond of saying ‘Everything is food for something’, and I apply that philosophy to the stocking of aquariums. Seems to work.
From the living room side:
You can see the overflow on the right, and dry chamber on the left. The far left panel is clear, but doesn’t face anything and is not used for viewing. The far right panel is clear and butts up against the side of the build-in refrigerator.
My plan here is to cover everything from left to right with 1/8” dark blue opaque acrylic.
Using the depth here and building a couple of primary more vertical rock structures on each point from those boxes, as well as proper light placement and angling, I should be able to highlight what is in front of the blue acrylic without hitting the acrylic with direct light. I’m toying with the idea of cementing some of that plastic two-sided locking tape to the sheets and the aquarium so the sheets can be removed and cleaned if needed.
That should help create a more open water look behind the vert structures, and make the tank look even larger.
I’m probably going to wrap the return line around to the side opposite the overflow. I’ve got 2 IceCap 3k and gyres, and I’m going to add a Maxspect 280 to those. The Maxspect will be ‘built-in’ to the rock wall surrounding the beam box, and the other two will probably be painted dark blue and placed on the dry-chamber and overflow way up by the top.
I hate...hate...seeing equipment/plumbing/cords, so I’m going to make sure these things are out of sight but still accessible.
Good question. As with most things I do, it’s going to be a fingers-crossed move.Any concerns about trying to service the maxspect if it’s “built in”? I’ve been tempted to do the same, but feel like I have a hard enough time working in my tank as is.
Now that is a stove!! Thank youGot the coralline off the surfaces and they’re now prepped for buffing. Honestly, I would rather yank my own fingernails off with pliers than buff acrylic...especially this much...but it’s essential to the final composition.
I’m going to attack this using both wet sand paper and polishing wheels. Gag. This is the one part of the project that really is not fun, especially if you’re a rotator cuff. But I guess if Daniel LaRusso could handle it, so can I.
Oh, @jsker ... here ya go:
Yessir! And unlike in a lot of these kinds of houses I’m in, this one gets used A LOT.Now that is a stove!! Thank you
That would be a little nerve racking. Time to find a car guy that can buffTook a bit of a gamble. I usually start with a 1500 grit wet sandpaper. But there were so many rough spots where the coralline anchored into the acrylic, and so many deep scratches, I decided to start with an 800 grain wet paper and did the entire surface area:
I am trusting that I can go over this several times with my 1500 paper and sand it down enough to let the higher grains take over and finish the sanding and polishing.
Little nervous right now.