Want to put tank on second floor, but joists will be running parallel (pics included), would I be okay to proceed or too much weight?

Z Burn's Reefing

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Hi All, I have a tank I want to setup, roughly 90 total gallons in water volume, including the sump (4 foot long tank). I would like to put it along this wall on the hardwood floor:

IMG_4472.jpg


Beneath this floor and space is a basement. I have taken a picture and added red lines roughly where tank would be (sitting above)...

Screenshot 2022-12-02 at 2.44.46 PM.png


Should I not put it here since the joists will be running parallel with tank? Thoughts and opinions would be really appreciated? I can't use floor jacks to add any support because the basement has now been finished since this picture was taken... Thank you!
 

Shiva89

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ive done that, but i used those adjustable jack stands and 4x4s going across the beams. added insurance. And they are designed to hold way more weight than what you will be putting there
 

Jekyl

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Is that hardwood or laminate?
 

liddojunior

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I’m going to say you’re right under what I would say should be the max size placed upstairs.
To be honest you should always have space behind the aquarium, so if possible you can try to align it to over lap the brace?
I recommend going for a really sturdy tan cabinet. Not a plywood stand. You really want the stand to equally distribute the weight, if the floor doesn’t, you’re going to have issues with the stand overtime starting to bow.
Not to advertise but I saw the new line of Waterbox tanks having solid metal stands! I would invest in that personally if I was doing any second floor tank. You REALLY don’t want any water emergencies of that volume upstairs, you’ll ruin both floors of your home.
 

liddojunior

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Another addition. Is there a chance you can plumb this tank to have the sump be in the basement?
I can see how water changes and buckets of water can become awful overtime cause of the second floor. That way you can have the sump on the same level as a water source and can actually invest in a larger sump?
 

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You guys need to re-read the OP " I can't use floor jacks to add any support because the basement has now been finished since this picture was taken..."
What kind of flooring is that? If it is real Hardwood, I am surprised they installed the floor parallel to the joints (unless that area is just a hallway).
Anyhow, I think you might be OK with 90gal (if the floor is really hardwood and strong subfloor) with a very study stand like mentioned above.
 
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Z Burn's Reefing

Z Burn's Reefing

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You guys need to re-read the OP " I can't use floor jacks to add any support because the basement has now been finished since this picture was taken..."
What kind of flooring is that? If it is real Hardwood, I am surprised they installed the floor parallel to the joints (unless that area is just a hallway).
Anyhow, I think you might be OK with 90gal (if the floor is really hardwood and strong subfloor) with a very study stand like mentioned above.
Its hardwood flooring, but only is in the hallway...really weird I know (we didn't build the house)...it is an appealing place to put the tank because I don't want to put it on carpet. Sounds like there is enough hesitancy I may should not do it. The tank is a red sea reefer 350 G2, brand new....but I have seen nightmares with red sea tanks on here...ugh, guess I'll need to figure out another spot.
 
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Z Burn's Reefing

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Heck its not finished yet so just add a couple more joist to be safe and call it a day. To be honest though with that concrete wall there it isn't going any where but a coup[le extra joist may help you sleep better :thinking-face:
sorry, my original post may have been confusing. That room and space underneath the tank has now been finished.
 

workhz

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“I can't use floor jacks to add any support because the basement has now been finished since this picture was taken... Thank you!”

Was the above edited in or can people not read? :)
 

Jekyl

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hardwood, just had it resanded and finished
This also will assist in weight distribution. Along with being right next to a load bearing wall I don't think you'll have any issue. As others have said, make sure to get a stand that evenly distributes weight.
 

Tcook

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What's in the room below? Can you put your DT/man cave there and then put a small cube observation tank upstairs?
 

Natural_Reefer

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Its hardwood flooring, but only is in the hallway...really weird I know (we didn't build the house)...it is an appealing place to put the tank because I don't want to put it on carpet. Sounds like there is enough hesitancy I may should not do it. The tank is a red sea reefer 350 G2, brand new....but I have seen nightmares with red sea tanks on here...ugh, guess I'll need to figure out another spot.
I guess the installer wanted to have a seamless floor with other areas of the house?
Anyhow, I think you are OK since it is real hardwood (plus near the load bearing wall).
Just to be safe, you could ask large blocks of wood or metal spacers under the stand legs (to spread out the weight even more.) I think Red Sea uses those adjustable legs with small rubber/plastic like pucks?
 
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Z Burn's Reefing

Z Burn's Reefing

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What's in the room below? Can you put your DT/man cave there and then put a small cube observation tank upstairs?
Now that it is finished, it is an exercise room. Tried to convince my wife to go full blown fish room, but not happening...
 
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Z Burn's Reefing

Z Burn's Reefing

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I guess the installer wanted to have a seamless floor with other areas of the house?
Anyhow, I think you are OK since it is real hardwood (plus near the load bearing wall).
Just to be safe, you could ask large blocks of wood or metal spacers under the stand legs (to spread out the weight even more.) I think Red Sea uses those adjustable legs with small rubber/plastic like pucks?
Yes, Red Sea stands have the little adjustable legs...can you elaborate on your approach for spreading the weight out even more? I am not sure I quite understand.
 

Natural_Reefer

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Yes, Red Sea stands have the little adjustable legs...can you elaborate on your approach for spreading the weight out even more? I am not sure I quite understand.
I could be wrong since I am not a structural engineer but basically you are spreading the load onto larger spacers (underneath those pucks) then onto the floor.
For example, I have 4 Posts Jack Lift installed in my garage. The garage floor wasn't thick enough to support the load. The installer have each of the post sits on top of a thick metal plate (instead of having to cut out the concrete floor and dig/pour a deeper section of concrete).
I hope it makes sense.
 

workhz

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For example, I have 4 Posts Jack Lift installed in my garage. The garage floor wasn't thick enough to support the load. The installer have each of the post sits on top of a thick metal plate (instead of having to cut out the concrete floor and dig/pour a deeper section of concrete).
I hope it makes sense.
Not to sidetrack this too much but I also have a 4 post lift. I never really did understand the 4 post lift concrete requirements. The contact patch from your tires is smaller than the footprint of the base of each post on a 4 post. Your car doesn’t fall through the concrete on its own so why would a 4 post require a bigger base (even account for an extra 1-2k lbs for the lift itself).
 

Natural_Reefer

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Not to sidetrack this too much but I also have a 4 post lift. I never really did understand the 4 post lift concrete requirements. The contact patch from your tires is smaller than the footprint of the base of each post on a 4 post. Your car doesn’t fall through the concrete on its own so why would a 4 post require a bigger base (even account for an extra 1-2k lbs for the lift itself).
I don't think the load behave the same as the car on 4 wheels vs on 4 posts lift. The main issues are stresses on the concrete (as side loads) and will cause crack.
 

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