Waterbox 7225 Peninsula Build

WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong · Nov 29, 2021

Hi all,

I’m getting ready to setup my new build which will be a Waterbox Peninsula 7225 (6’x2’x2’, 167g display, ~210g total volume). I’m upgrading from my Waterbox 50.3 AIO which I’ve had setup for a little over a year. I’m looking for advice on my transfer plan, equipment list, and any other advice that can be given.

Equipment List:

Waterbox 7225 peninsula
2 – ReefBreeders Photon 32 Pro
Reef Octopus Regal 200 INT skimmer
Sicce SDC 9.0 return pump
4 – 4 inch filter cups instead of filter socks
Eheim Jager 300W heater with Inkbird controller
Icecap 4k Gyre
Red Sea DIY mesh lid
Tiger Shark Float Algae Scraper
100lbs live rock (either TBS or KP Aquatics)
120lbs Caribsea Special Grade Sand

Current equipment to be used:

Tunze 3115 ATO
Tunze 3181 Algae Reactor
Jebao SLW-30 Wavemaker
Jebao OW-10 Wavemaker
BRS doser
BRS 5 stage RODI filer (200gpd)
Red Sea + Hannah Test kits
40lbs TBS live rock

One issue I have is that the new tank will be setup slightly overlapping with where the current tank is, with about 6 inches of overlap. The ideal move would be if I could rotate my current tank in place 90 degrees. That would allow me to setup my new build next to my old and give me time to do the transfer at my own pace. I’m wondering if anyone has any experience with doing this? I was planning on draining ~75% of the water and attempting to rotate it slowly with 2 people. Would I be at much risk of straining the glass seams?

Assuming I am able to follow that plan, I’m going to setup the new tank right next to the rotated old tank and get it cycling. I’ve got ~40lbs of live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater, and will probably add another 100lbs for the new build. I’m debating whether to go with another order from TBS or to try KP Aquatics. Does anybody have experience with both, and if so, what did you find to be the pros/cons of each? My plan is to get the new rock into the tank, then add sand and give it a few days for any die off before doing the transfer. My first go around with TBS rock I barely registered any ammonia at any point and the whole cycle was completed in less than a week. I’m hoping for a similar experience this time. Assuming that all goes according to plan I’ll be moving over the remaining 40lbs from my current tank and placing existing corals, then doing the fish transfer. Not going to use any of my current sand.

For a large tank, floor support is always a topic that comes up. Unfortunately, I do have a crawlspace which is not ideal. Luckily, this will be placed up against an exterior load bearing wall and will span 4 joists that will be running perpendicular to the tank, and actually has a cross joist running almost centered with the tank. That gives me confidence I won’t have any issues, but I’m considering still adding a floor jack for some additional peace of mind.

I’ll be updating this thread as it comes together, but would love any comments or advice on my plan, along with other people’s experience going through similar upgrades. I have everything ready to go except the tank, rock and sand. The tank will be delivered this Thursday, and I don’t want to place the order for the rock until I have it, and have done a leak check.

Thanks!

blaxsun · Nov 29, 2021

You might be ok with removing 75% of the water, but don't forget you still have substrate and rock as well (still going to be heavy). They generally don't advise moving tanks with any water, substrate and rocks in them.

ScottB · Nov 29, 2021

WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong said:
Hi all,

I’m getting ready to setup my new build which will be a Waterbox Peninsula 7225 (6’x2’x2’, 167g display, ~210g total volume). I’m upgrading from my Waterbox 50.3 AIO which I’ve had setup for a little over a year. I’m looking for advice on my transfer plan, equipment list, and any other advice that can be given.

Equipment List:

Waterbox 7225 peninsula

2 – ReefBreeders Photon 32 Pro

Reef Octopus Regal 200 INT skimmer

Sicce SDC 9.0 return pump

4 – 4 inch filter cups instead of filter socks

Eheim Jager 300W heater with Inkbird controller

Icecap 4k Gyre

Red Sea DIY mesh lid

Tiger Shark Float Algae Scraper

100lbs live rock (either TBS or KP Aquatics)

120lbs Caribsea Special Grade Sand

Current equipment to be used:

Tunze 3115 ATO

Tunze 3181 Algae Reactor

Jebao SLW-30 Wavemaker

Jebao OW-10 Wavemaker

BRS doser

BRS 5 stage RODI filer (200gpd)

Red Sea + Hannah Test kits

40lbs TBS live rock

One issue I have is that the new tank will be setup slightly overlapping with where the current tank is, with about 6 inches of overlap. The ideal move would be if I could rotate my current tank in place 90 degrees. That would allow me to setup my new build next to my old and give me time to do the transfer at my own pace. I’m wondering if anyone has any experience with doing this? I was planning on draining ~75% of the water and attempting to rotate it slowly with 2 people. Would I be at much risk of straining the glass seams?

Assuming I am able to follow that plan, I’m going to setup the new tank right next to the rotated old tank and get it cycling. I’ve got ~40lbs of live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater, and will probably add another 100lbs for the new build. I’m debating whether to go with another order from TBS or to try KP Aquatics. Does anybody have experience with both, and if so, what did you find to be the pros/cons of each? My plan is to get the new rock into the tank, then add sand and give it a few days for any die off before doing the transfer. My first go around with TBS rock I barely registered any ammonia at any point and the whole cycle was completed in less than a week. I’m hoping for a similar experience this time. Assuming that all goes according to plan I’ll be moving over the remaining 40lbs from my current tank and placing existing corals, then doing the fish transfer. Not going to use any of my current sand.

For a large tank, floor support is always a topic that comes up. Unfortunately, I do have a crawlspace which is not ideal. Luckily, this will be placed up against an exterior load bearing wall and will span 4 joists that will be running perpendicular to the tank, and actually has a cross joist running almost centered with the tank. That gives me confidence I won’t have any issues, but I’m considering still adding a floor jack for some additional peace of mind.

I’ll be updating this thread as it comes together, but would love any comments or advice on my plan, along with other people’s experience going through similar upgrades. I have everything ready to go except the tank, rock and sand. The tank will be delivered this Thursday, and I don’t want to place the order for the rock until I have it, and have done a leak check.

Thanks!

First off I love your decision on the live rock. Any of the three Florida outfits are fine. IMO you are saving yourself a lot of grief.

WRT rotating the existing 50G, you will be rotating the stand I presume, so isn't it more an issue about the integrity of the stand? Also, the floor surface and the "feet" of the stand.

I moved some partially filled 80G tanks in my basement a few years ago. Sitting on steel stands. Across about 10 feet of concrete floor. I drained them down, levered up one side about about 3/8" and got sliders in under each of the 4 feet. I got a little bit of slosh, but managed the moves by myself without a lot of grief.

I think your flooring should be safe. Just keep an eye out for deflection. I have seen instances of tanks tilting forward, away from the wall. Recheck with a level every now and then.

Lastly, pick up some NeoPhos (or a DIY version) and maybe even some NeoNitro (or sodium nitrate) before the big day. Just in case your nutrients get diluted down. You are going to have a lot of sterile surface space too, and that combo is very conducive to dinoflagellate outbreaks. Very conducive. Make sure you keep measurable nutrients so those surfaces can get a nice bacterial film and film algae coating.

WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong · Nov 29, 2021

ScottB said:
First off I love your decision on the live rock. Any of the three Florida outfits are fine. IMO you are saving yourself a lot of grief.

WRT rotating the existing 50G, you will be rotating the stand I presume, so isn't it more an issue about the integrity of the stand? Also, the floor surface and the "feet" of the stand.

I moved some partially filled 80G tanks in my basement a few years ago. Sitting on steel stands. Across about 10 feet of concrete floor. I drained them down, levered up one side about about 3/8" and got sliders in under each of the 4 feet. I got a little bit of slosh, but managed the moves by myself without a lot of grief.

I think your flooring should be safe. Just keep an eye out for deflection. I have seen instances of tanks tilting forward, away from the wall. Recheck with a level every now and then.

Lastly, pick up some NeoPhos (or a DIY version) and maybe even some NeoNitro (or sodium nitrate) before the big day. Just in case your nutrients get diluted down. You are going to have a lot of sterile surface space too, and that combo is very conducive to dinoflagellate outbreaks. Very conducive. Make sure you keep measurable nutrients so those surfaces can get a nice bacterial film and film algae coating.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it will be more about the stand integrity than the tank. Unfortunately it is a plywood stand not metal. I'm still strategizing how to approach it. I hadn't even thought of needing to dose nutrients but that is a good idea to have some on hand in case. As for the rock, I'm just a huge fan of live rock. I think people get far too aggressive in trying to maintain sterile conditions in tanks, not to mention the amazing biodiversity you get from the rocks. You end up with tons of things that you just will never see in a dry rock tank, regardless of how established it is. And while hitchhikers can be annoying, all it takes is one frag entering your tank and you could soon have dry rock covered in aiptasia anyways. I'm leaning towards trying KP Aquatics. I love my TBS rock, but am thinking of going with KP just to see what the difference is. Both have excellent reviews.

ScottB · Nov 29, 2021

WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong said:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it will be more about the stand integrity than the tank. Unfortunately it is a plywood stand not metal. I'm still strategizing how to approach it. I hadn't even thought of needing to dose nutrients but that is a good idea to have some on hand in case. As for the rock, I'm just a huge fan of live rock. I think people get far too aggressive in trying to maintain sterile conditions in tanks, not to mention the amazing biodiversity you get from the rocks. You end up with tons of things that you just will never see in a dry rock tank, regardless of how established it is. And while hitchhikers can be annoying, all it takes is one frag entering your tank and you could soon have dry rock covered in aiptasia anyways. I'm leaning towards trying KP Aquatics. I love my TBS rock, but am thinking of going with KP just to see what the difference is. Both have excellent reviews.

If you can get sliders under the feet... that is the tricky bit with a plywood stand.

There was a thread around here the other day from @LRT that was contrasting the differences between them. IIRC, the KP stuff came with the "least" amount of coral/sponge/etc.

I am really into live rock more for the bacteria and microorganisms than the coral/macro/critters.

kingkongds · Nov 29, 2021

Hello! I’m setting up the same tank as you as well… just waiting for all my equipment to arrive since it is a new build for me.
I actually wanted to see your thoughts on flow…. Currently I’m planning on having 2 MP60s on one end of the tank.
I’m considering getting a gyre as well.
Have you used the Icecap 4K Gyre or seen it? Do you think it can be installed on the overflow box on our Peninsula’s? And last but not least… do you thing the 4k will handle the 6’ length of the peninsula?

looking forward to seeing your progress!

haitian_reefer · Nov 30, 2021

kingkongds said:
Hello! I’m setting up the same tank as you as well… just waiting for all my equipment to arrive since it is a new build for me.
I actually wanted to see your thoughts on flow…. Currently I’m planning on having 2 MP60s on one end of the tank.
I’m considering getting a gyre as well.
Have you used the Icecap 4K Gyre or seen it? Do you think it can be installed on the overflow box on our Peninsula’s? And last but not least… do you thing the 4k will handle the 6’ length of the peninsula?

looking forward to seeing your progress!

I have the same tank as well with 2 MP40s on the overflow size. I also bought a red sea 45 and put it on the overflow side, it did help but I plan moving it to the opposite side of the tank.

WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong · Nov 30, 2021

kingkongds said:
Hello! I’m setting up the same tank as you as well… just waiting for all my equipment to arrive since it is a new build for me.
I actually wanted to see your thoughts on flow…. Currently I’m planning on having 2 MP60s on one end of the tank.
I’m considering getting a gyre as well.
Have you used the Icecap 4K Gyre or seen it? Do you think it can be installed on the overflow box on our Peninsula’s? And last but not least… do you thing the 4k will handle the 6’ length of the peninsula?

looking forward to seeing your progress!

Great question, flow is definitely much trickier for peninsula tanks than traditional. I haven't used a gyre before, only my current Jebao powerheads, but after doing some research it seemed like a gyre was the best option to try and get decent flow across the whole tank from one side.

That being said, I don't know if there will be any issues mounting the gyre directly below the weir from the overflow box. I've never tried that and I don't know if it causes any weird issues with the overflow by generating a variable flow through the weir.

My plan is to try and install it on the overflow box, and if that causes any issues, or isn't giving me adequate flow through the whole six feet, I'm going to move the gyre to the other side of the tank, and mount my Jebaos on the overflow side. That's not ideal since everyone wants to keep the end of their peninsula clear to make it visually appealing. However, the gyres are low profile and mount near the surface, so are much less noticeable than a conventional powerhead, and I can run the cable over the top of my lights which I think will not impact the look as negatively. Ideally I won't have to, but it is my backup option.

I think your MP60s will definitely get you enough flow from the overflow side though, they push a lot of water.

kingkongds · Nov 30, 2021

haitian_reefer said:
I have the same tank as well with 2 MP40s on the overflow size. I also bought a red sea 45 and put it on the overflow side, it did help but I plan moving it to the opposite side of the tank.

I feel like putting additional mp's on the other side of the peninsula tank really defeats the reason of why we got a peninsula tank. I also ordered a Maxspect 350 Gyre after seeing WhenKeepinItReefGoesWrong is planning on one as well. I am going to attach it to the overflow box... to see... I guess it is an expensive test... lol