Week Aqua Z400SEA

[FEJ]

Hello, I am new to saltwater fishkeeping and, currently, I am assembling equipment I shall need for my new setup. The size of the tank is 96" x 27" x 30" tall. Filtration will be by a 60" long, five chambered sump and additional Sunsun HW-5000 external cannister filter.

Initially, I will set the tank up as a fowlr but with the view to introduce some bullet-proof corals at a later date (maybe 6 to 12 months) once the tank and my confidence are established. I don't want to double spend by buying equipment for a fowlr then buy again for a reef tank so will use reef suitable products from the start.

I have been looking at what lighting is affordable and available to me in the Philippines and I have (almost) settled on 3 x Week Aqua Z400SEA units. I can buy these at just under 8600 peso (£107.50, $146) per unit and really don't want to go too far over that price for lighting.

Does anyone run these lights on their system and, if so, what is your view of them? Thanks in advance.

 

[revhtree]

BUMP for someone who might be able to help!

 

[oreo54]

Hello, I am new to saltwater fishkeeping and, currently, I am assembling equipment I shall need for my new setup. The size of the tank is 96" x 27" x 30" tall. Filtration will be by a 60" long, five chambered sump and additional Sunsun HW-5000 external cannister filter.

Initially, I will set the tank up as a fowlr but with the view to introduce some bullet-proof corals at a later date (maybe 6 to 12 months) once the tank and my confidence are established. I don't want to double spend by buying equipment for a fowlr then buy again for a reef tank so will use reef suitable products from the start.

I have been looking at what lighting is affordable and available to me in the Philippines and I have (almost) settled on 3 x Week Aqua Z400SEA units. I can buy these at just under 8600 peso (£107.50, $146) per unit and really don't want to go too far over that price for lighting.

Does anyone run these lights on their system and, if so, what is your view of them? Thanks in advance.

Take this as more observation than help.
So each unit will be " responsible" for a 32x 27 and 30" depth area. Light is listed as 120w.
Maybe or maybe not.
Large 90 degree fisheye lens. Good for depth penetration.
Price is dirt cheap in this universe.
Week Aquas warranty (at least here) is 30 days.
You need to pay for a longer one.
But since warranties vary by region I have no idea on one for you, if any.

Anyways assume 3 = 300w and your tank is 300 plus gallons making your wattage/gallon ratio oh rounded to 1.
Old school logic suggests at least 2w/ gal.
is a more " acceptable" starting point.
Depends on "many" factors though.
Like what sort of output (par) at what depth are these lights capable of and if course what you want to raise.

My outsiders opinion ( as in what would I do if I was doing things like you) my * guess* would be plenty of light for a FOWLER and simple corals with probably decent light up high for more demanding corals.
Not that good as the tank fills in though
But supplementing with Led " bars" later on is
a plan.
Increases par and spread.

Now a bit back to the specific light.
The led " colors" are broad and lean into the current " broad blue band" philosophy.

Now the tricky part .
You need to decide on the color you like and have a general idea if the light is close to what you like. In other words if the light is very blue at 100% and you like it more white well you need to lose blue output
So in this case the bluer it is at 100 % and the " whiter" you like it the less watts will be going into the tank.
I mean if the tank doesn't look good to you well what's the point?
If course that blue white thing ties into natural vs fluorescent looks.

Then there is the programming and connection protocols to consider.
People have different opinions on what is easier or do I want it wifi, Bluetooth, android, iOS,old fashioned control box, or cloud based?
As much " fun" as it is to command your lights from say another country it would suck if the cloud was shut down or decided to charge a fee for usage.


So observations are arguably better than recommendation..

My "napkin" summary.
Their weak warranty is obviously their worst point. The color choices of the LEDs is somewhat current " standards".
Fisheye 90 degree lens aid depth penetration.
Inexpensive if cumulatively a bit under powered ( arguable and best judged with more data)
Should produce decent ripple effects with proper surface agitation.
The design type seems to blend colors fairly well though probably not perfect. This requires real observation though.
As it sort of defines your budget ut may be hard to find " upgrades" in the same price range.
Used or stuff like horticulture t5's maybe.
2 48" 4 bulb or better t5 fixtures with bulbs may come close. Downside is the t5's s aren't the best at depth penetration.

Final soapbox...
In " my opinion" almost all these inexpensive
lights have inexpensive and prone to failure DC power supplies. Like 3 yr lifespans at best.
Sadly I believe it is a choice in the design.
Anyways a cheap diy replacement fix in most cases.
For reference:
36 volt 4 amp power supply is what they list for the 400.
There were a lot of words here about their power supplies but none that actually impressed me.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008585444028.html

But those enclosed in plastic types are always at a disadvantage because of heat retention.

 

[FEJ]

Take this as more observation than help.
So each unit will be " responsible" for a 32x 27 and 30" depth area. Light is listed as 120w.
Maybe or maybe not.
Large 90 degree fisheye lens. Good for depth penetration.
Price is dirt cheap in this universe.
Week Aquas warranty (at least here) is 30 days.
You need to pay for a longer one.
But since warranties vary by region I have no idea on one for you, if any.

Anyways assume 3 = 300w and your tank is 300 plus gallons making your wattage/gallon ratio oh rounded to 1.
Old school logic suggests at least 2w/ gal.
is a more " acceptable" starting point.
Depends on "many" factors though.
Like what sort of output (par) at what depth are these lights capable of and if course what you want to raise.

My outsiders opinion ( as in what would I do if I was doing things like you) my * guess* would be plenty of light for a FOWLER and simple corals with probably decent light up high for more demanding corals.
Not that good as the tank fills in though
But supplementing with Led " bars" later on is
a plan.
Increases par and spread.

Now a bit back to the specific light.
The led " colors" are broad and lean into the current " broad blue band" philosophy.

Now the tricky part .
You need to decide on the color you like and have a general idea if the light is close to what you like. In other words if the light is very blue at 100% and you like it more white well you need to lose blue output
So in this case the bluer it is at 100 % and the " whiter" you like it the less watts will be going into the tank.
I mean if the tank doesn't look good to you well what's the point?
If course that blue white thing ties into natural vs fluorescent looks.

Then there is the programming and connection protocols to consider.
People have different opinions on what is easier or do I want it wifi, Bluetooth, android, iOS,old fashioned control box, or cloud based?
As much " fun" as it is to command your lights from say another country it would suck if the cloud was shut down or decided to charge a fee for usage.


So observations are arguably better than recommendation..

My "napkin" summary.
Their weak warranty is obviously their worst point. The color choices of the LEDs is somewhat current " standards".
Fisheye 90 degree lens aid depth penetration.
Inexpensive if cumulatively a bit under powered ( arguable and best judged with more data)
Should produce decent ripple effects with proper surface agitation.
The design type seems to blend colors fairly well though probably not perfect. This requires real observation though.
As it sort of defines your budget ut may be hard to find " upgrades" in the same price range.
Used or stuff like horticulture t5's maybe.
2 48" 4 bulb or better t5 fixtures with bulbs may come close. Downside is the t5's s aren't the best at depth penetration.

Final soapbox...
In " my opinion" almost all these inexpensive
lights have inexpensive and prone to failure DC power supplies. Like 3 yr lifespans at best.
Sadly I believe it is a choice in the design.
Anyways a cheap diy replacement fix in most cases.
For reference:
36 volt 4 amp power supply is what they list for the 400.
There were a lot of words here about their power supplies but none that actually impressed me.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008585444028.html

But those enclosed in plastic types are always at a disadvantage because of heat retention.

Thank you for your in-depth and comprehensive reply, it is greatly appreciated.

You have stated that the system will be 300 plus gallons which is also what I have been working on...but is that correct?

Since writing the post, I have sat thinking (perhaps over-thinking) about the water capacity of the system. Would I not need to take into account the sand, rocks, and media within the tank, sump, and external cannister and deduct the volume of those from the volume of water (on the basis of Archimedes' principle)?

To my reckoning, that would reduce the actual volume markedly. Also, the dimensions of the tank I gave are the external dimensions but should I not use the internal dimensions? Given the glass thickness is 1/2", and the tank will not be filled to the brim (approximately, 4" below the brim) and there will be a sand depth of 2", the actual dimensions of the tank will be 95" x 26" x 25 1/2" (not including the depth of sand).

I have roughly calculated the total water capacity of the system, without deducting sand, rock, filter media, and sump equipment to be 1245 liters or 274 Imp. gallons, 329 US gallons. Taking into account and deducting the volume of the above mentioned material (2" sand bed, 1+ lbs rock per US gallon, other media) , I estimate the water capacity of the system to roughly be 934 liters or 205 Imp. gallons, 246 US gallons.

Given the above, and being kind to the light units, if the power output when new is 120W each and the tank holds 246 US gallons, then the Wattage/gallons ratio will be a just under 1.5, so, a little better maybe.

Regarding the depth of light penetration, as stated above, I had worked on the assumption of a 30" depth of water, however, taking into account the thickness of glass, the 2" sand bed, and the 4" level of water from the brim, the actual depth of water the lights need to penetrate is 23 1/2". There is a YouTube video uploaded by a Russian guy who checked out the PAR readings using a Quantum Sensor in his tank which had a shallow sand base and a water depth of around 14" to 15". Under a very blue colour setting, he got readings of between 250 and 260 when reading from the base sand level. Under what I would consider a white colour setting, he got readings of between 370 and 380.

I have no idea how this rating compares to what I may expect to get in my tank with my depth, maybe you could throw some light on this? (pun intended).



Thanks for the pointer to the video to sammy_hehe1245.

I would be quite happy to set the lighting to achieve the best outcome for the life in the tank, though, I do like the blue colour look, and will be happy to add lighting or even replace in time. My intention is to start with a FOWLER setup and add simple, hardy corals in time as my experience grows. Only after that, would I think of the addition of more demanding/delicate coral types. It really depends on what I can obtain in my area. Seems daft that, given my location, there are only two LFS catering for the saltwater hobby and they are on the mainland which is two to three hours drive away plus a 15 minute ferry ride.

Once set, I don't envisage altering the lighting so I have little interest in gadgets that complicate the experience and most days I am at home to monitor the system, when not, there will always be someone on hand, once trained, to caretake the tank as with my freshwater tanks, so, off-site management is not required.

The warranty given on the product I am considering is for one year. However, I have learned from ten years experience of living on Samal that warranties given in the Philippines are not worth the paper they are written on. So, sadly, that aspect of the product, I disregard.

The budget I have set for the initial lighting was determined by the overall budget for the total setup. I didn't realise how much money would be involved until I sat down and worked out the costs! Long-term, and after the tank is up and running to my satisfaction, I would consider additions and upgrades to the lighting and the addition of other equipment to improve the system but for now, 'cheap and cheerful' lights that get me started is the path I will take.

Once again, I am grateful and really value the time you have given to reviewing this light unit and the advice given. Any additional advice and comments you can give to any/all aspects of my reply would be greatly appreciated...I take criticism well so please let me know if I am wrong in my views. I am a complete novice when it comes to the saltwater hobby, though, I have kept tropical freshwater fish for thirty-six years; and, as a hint to my age, I didn't start in the hobby till I was thirty-six years old.

Take care.

​

​

 

[oreo54]

Thank you for your in-depth and comprehensive reply, it is greatly appreciated.

You have stated that the system will be 300 plus gallons which is also what I have been working on...but is that correct?

Since writing the post, I have sat thinking (perhaps over-thinking) about the water capacity of the system. Would I not need to take into account the sand, rocks, and media within the tank, sump, and external cannister and deduct the volume of those from the volume of water (on the basis of Archimedes' principle)?

To my reckoning, that would reduce the actual volume markedly. Also, the dimensions of the tank I gave are the external dimensions but should I not use the internal dimensions? Given the glass thickness is 1/2", and the tank will not be filled to the brim (approximately, 4" below the brim) and there will be a sand depth of 2", the actual dimensions of the tank will be 95" x 26" x 25 1/2" (not including the depth of sand).

I have roughly calculated the total water capacity of the system, without deducting sand, rock, filter media, and sump equipment to be 1245 liters or 274 Imp. gallons, 329 US gallons. Taking into account and deducting the volume of the above mentioned material (2" sand bed, 1+ lbs rock per US gallon, other media) , I estimate the water capacity of the system to roughly be 934 liters or 205 Imp. gallons, 246 US gallons.

Given the above, and being kind to the light units, if the power output when new is 120W each and the tank holds 246 US gallons, then the Wattage/gallons ratio will be a just under 1.5, so, a little better maybe.

Regarding the depth of light penetration, as stated above, I had worked on the assumption of a 30" depth of water, however, taking into account the thickness of glass, the 2" sand bed, and the 4" level of water from the brim, the actual depth of water the lights need to penetrate is 23 1/2". There is a YouTube video uploaded by a Russian guy who checked out the PAR readings using a Quantum Sensor in his tank which had a shallow sand base and a water depth of around 14" to 15". Under a very blue colour setting, he got readings of between 250 and 260 when reading from the base sand level. Under what I would consider a white colour setting, he got readings of between 370 and 380.

I have no idea how this rating compares to what I may expect to get in my tank with my depth, maybe you could throw some light on this? (pun intended).



Thanks for the pointer to the video to sammy_hehe1245.

I would be quite happy to set the lighting to achieve the best outcome for the life in the tank, though, I do like the blue colour look, and will be happy to add lighting or even replace in time. My intention is to start with a FOWLER setup and add simple, hardy corals in time as my experience grows. Only after that, would I think of the addition of more demanding/delicate coral types. It really depends on what I can obtain in my area. Seems daft that, given my location, there are only two LFS catering for the saltwater hobby and they are on the mainland which is two to three hours drive away plus a 15 minute ferry ride.

Once set, I don't envisage altering the lighting so I have little interest in gadgets that complicate the experience and most days I am at home to monitor the system, when not, there will always be someone on hand, once trained, to caretake the tank as with my freshwater tanks, so, off-site management is not required.

The warranty given on the product I am considering is for one year. However, I have learned from ten years experience of living on Samal that warranties given in the Philippines are not worth the paper they are written on. So, sadly, that aspect of the product, I disregard.

The budget I have set for the initial lighting was determined by the overall budget for the total setup. I didn't realise how much money would be involved until I sat down and worked out the costs! Long-term, and after the tank is up and running to my satisfaction, I would consider additions and upgrades to the lighting and the addition of other equipment to improve the system but for now, 'cheap and cheerful' lights that get me started is the path I will take.

Once again, I am grateful and really value the time you have given to reviewing this light unit and the advice given. Any additional advice and comments you can give to any/all aspects of my reply would be greatly appreciated...I take criticism well so please let me know if I am wrong in my views. I am a complete novice when it comes to the saltwater hobby, though, I have kept tropical freshwater fish for thirty-six years; and, as a hint to my age, I didn't start in the hobby till I was thirty-six years old.

Take care.

​

​

Yes you are correct in the fact the volume estimate was a broad and simplified calculation.
As was the 2:1 ratio
Also as a matter of increasing longevity and/or a color adjustment few run things at 100%.
So the 2 sort of wash out.

Over gallon estimate, over wattage estimate.

I personally suggest getting the most wattage one can afford and dim appropriately.

As to warranties, it is as I expected. So it creates more of a need for " gently" running your lights. For the most part.
Or be handy with electronic repairs.
Led light construction isn't rocket science.


The height needs to include both the light face to water and the depth of water

One philosophy involves estimating the lights beam spread and have it correspond with the tanks dimensions so as to maximize light entering the tank, covering the necessary dimension(s).
This means light spread is equal to the water line
Once the light enters the tank it's " geometry" changes.
Anyways as, again a broad brush, your 90 degree lens to cover your 27" front to back needs to be hung 13.5" light face to water line.
Now this doesn't take into account the actual width of the light emitting surface.
It is assumes as a point light source.
So really your height can be as low as say 11"
and obtain the correct coverage/ low light spill.
Lowering will create more of a spotlight effect with duller lighting front to back at the surface.

LED Lighting Beam Angle Calculator

A simple calculator that determines spot size by a light's beam angle

store.marinebeam.com

So your effective measurement is say 13.5 + (30 - whatever tank depth)
Assume a 2" sand bed and your height is 42" light face to sensor.

Due to reflections and refraction effects and assuming nothing in its path light falloff is fairly linear as opposed to the concept of the inverse square law.
Point being if one measures par at 20" light face to sensor to be 200 then at 40 " light face to sensor it would be 100 par.
ROUGH estimate

When giving opinions I find it important to not estimate on the low side.
Over lighting and dimming is much less a problem than under lighting.
And anything besides direct measurements are guesstimates

 

[oreo54]

OK why are there 2 completely different led panels under the same name?

I was assuming the fisheye lensed one.

 

[FEJ]

Yes you are correct in the fact the volume estimate was a broad and simplified calculation.
As was the 2:1 ratio
Also as a matter of increasing longevity and/or a color adjustment few run things at 100%.
So the 2 sort of wash out.

Over gallon estimate, over wattage estimate.

I personally suggest getting the most wattage one can afford and dim appropriately.

As to warranties, it is as I expected. So it creates more of a need for " gently" running your lights. Fir the most part.
Or be handy with electronic repairs.
Led light construction isn't rocket science.


The height needs to include both the light face to water and the depth of water

One philosophy involves estimating the lights beam spread and have it correspond with the tanks dimensions so as to maximize light entering the tank, covering the necessary dimension(s).
This means light spread is equal to the water line
Once the light enters the tank it's " geometry" changes.
Anyways as, again a broad brush, your 90 degree lens to cover your 27" front to back needs to be hung 13.5" light face to water line
Now this doesn't take into account the actual width of the light emitting surface.
It is assumes as a point light source.
So really your height can be as low as say 11"
and obtain the correct coverage/ low light spill.
Lowering will create more of a spotlight effect with duller lighting front to back at the surface.

LED Lighting Beam Angle Calculator

A simple calculator that determines spot size by a light's beam angle

store.marinebeam.com

So your effective measurement is say 13.5 + (30 - whatever tank depth)
Assume a 2" sand bed and your height is 42"

Due to reflections and refraction effects and assuming nothing in its path light falloff is fairly linear as opposed to the concept of the inverse square law.
Point being if one measures par at 20" light face to sensor to be 200 then at 40 " light face to sensor it would be 100 par.
ROUGH estimate

Again, thank you for imparting your knowledge. I've picked up a lot of useful information from your two posts.

There's a lot for me to consider, for instance, after reading your reply, I can now place the lights a lot nearer to the surface of the water than I thought I could and still ensure full tank coverage. I'll also bear in mind not to run the lights at 100%, though, I wouldn't have done that anyway. I'll make additional lighting a priority after I have assembled the kit I need to start up the tank.

Thanks and take care.

 

[FEJ]

OK why are there 2 completely different led panels under the same name?

I was assuming the fisheye lensed one.

I noticed that too a while ago and, upon checking, the difference is in the Z suffix after SEA.

The SEA-Z is rated at 125 Watts and has upgraded programming ability and a fan upgrade, though, I don't know how the fan is upgraded. As in the photos, the non-Z unit has fisheye lenses and the SEA-Z has the bank of LEDs.

The product available locally is the fisheye unit. I think that unit will give a better ripple affect and that I like.

 

[FEJ]

I noticed that too a while ago and, upon checking, the difference is in the Z suffix after SEA.

The SEA-Z is rated at 125 Watts and has upgraded programming ability and a fan upgrade, though, I don't know how the fan is upgraded. As in the photos, the non-Z unit has fisheye lenses and the SEA-Z has the bank of LEDs.

The product available locally is the fisheye unit. I think that unit will give a better ripple affect and that I like.

Now it seems that I may have the opportunity to buy both types from two different sellers. The original Fisheye type is from a seller in Manila and the newer type from a new seller in Indonesia. Manila is selling at 8538 Pesos and Indonesia guy at 7080 Pesos. A difference of around £15, say $20. As I need three, that's a difference of £45. But Indonesia guy is showing a photo of the fisheye type and gives a Wattage of 120W so I'm not sure which type he has. Worse case, I get the fisheye for less cost or get the upgraded model for less cost. But do I want the new model? What to do? I guess I'll sleep on it.

 

[FEJ]

Now it seems that I may have the opportunity to buy both types from two different sellers. The original Fisheye type is from a seller in Manila and the newer type from a new seller in Indonesia. Manila is selling at 8538 Pesos and Indonesia guy at 7080 Pesos. A difference of around £15, say $20. As I need three, that's a difference of £45. But Indonesia guy is showing a photo of the fisheye type and gives a Wattage of 120W so I'm not sure which type he has. Worse case, I get the fisheye for less cost or get the upgraded model for less cost. But do I want the new model? What to do? I guess I'll sleep on it.

Scratch that. I chatted to the Indonesian seller. He is selling the fisheye type - appears that he ran out of the other type last year - and he is limited to selling locally, not internationally. Pity, I could have saved quite a bit but, still, I have the Manila seller to go to.