I just ordered a small siphon kinda like that today hopefully that does the trickStainless Steel straw 1/4" inside a 1/2" hose with a rubber band for a seal. Works great.
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I just ordered a small siphon kinda like that today hopefully that does the trickStainless Steel straw 1/4" inside a 1/2" hose with a rubber band for a seal. Works great.
@BostonReefer300 @vetteguy53081
Well here is what it looks like now boys, probably just need to siphon the sand some more and we should be good to go….hopefully.
My sps on the other hand looks HORRIBLE though right now and I have no idea why. My cyphastrea and green lepto have 0 color what could be the cause of this??
Cyano is a huge part of the issue. Increase water flow slightly to deter adhesion of cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Dinos are gone and I think changing the flow nozzles on my return pump solved the problem. My coral look horrible though right now, could it have been because of the low lights from trying to get rid of dinos?Cyano is a huge part of the issue. Increase water flow slightly to deter adhesion of cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Will that cause the majority of my sps to contract? and what can I do to try and get them back to their former glory?Dino itself and low lights robbing them of zooxanthelle will do it
It starts with water testing. What test kits are you using?Will that cause the majority of my sps to contract? and what can I do to try and get them back to their former glory?
AI Hydra 52 and i have a hanna tester for alk and calciumIt starts with water testing. What test kits are you using?
Type of lighting?
Did you get a definite identification of which species of Dinoflagellate you have?Currently I am blowing off the Dinos of the rocks everyday, got my nitrates up to 25 PPM but my corals looks horrible right now. Hopefully keeping my nitrates high will keep the Dinos in check, they still come back everyday.....
I have not gotten an identification of the Dinos I have, and I’ll have to check my phosphates later on today.Did you get a definite identification of which species of Dinoflagellate you have?
Nitrates are in a good range.
What about Phosphate?
Phosphates are reading 0 with the salifert kit I have.....I going going to start dosing Phosphates againDid you get a definite identification of which species of Dinoflagellate you have?
Nitrates are in a good range.
What about Phosphate?
Get a Hanna ULR phosphorus HI736 in ppb, then go to the chart to convert ppm phosphate. I don't think Salifert is sensitive enough for such low numbers, that is why changed to Hanna. I hope you can open this file, if not go to hannainstruments.com, they have the conversion charts. I don't trust any other. ICP test is very close to Hanna test.Phosphates are reading 0 with the salifert kit I have.....I going going to start dosing Phosphates again
I’ve been adding up to 10ML a day of Neophos to my 20 gallon. See if you can get a reading on your test 1hr after you dose phosphate.Phosphates are still reading zero (even though I am dosing 3ML a day), the cyano bacteria also came back extremely quick after siphoning it up when I did a water change.....
Do you have any other flow in the tank besides the return? Flow does help.I have a ton of cyano building up on my sand bed and my corals. What can I do to combat this problem along with the Dino's I am still fighting. Cyano builds up on my corals everyday....
Looking back at all the pictures in this thread, I’m only seeing Cyano. Without a microscope it’s hard to know for sure.I have not gotten an identification of the Dinos I have, and I’ll have to check my phosphates later on today.