What is your ideal hospital tank set up?

Ta2oodfreak

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I have been lucky fish wise, and have avoided quarantine of my fish after purchase.... But we all know luck eventually runs out with disease or injury. Plus I have a yellow tang that I am keeping a close eye on. So with that in mind I have decided to set up a hospital tank that will also be used for treatment and/or quarantine of future purchases to avoid the game of roulette when introducing new fish to my tanks.
So...help me come up with the ideal system without going overboard. Having a few tangs I imagine 20g won't do. Will 40g be adequate if one needs to be hospitalized or quarantined? I currently have a 180G, 25G lagoon as displays and a 13.5 Evo for growing out frags and quarantine of new corals.
I have a couple extra Kessil A80s with controller, cheap wave maker, some cycled live rock I don't mind dedicating if need be laying around so I can get this up and running.
Just would like some opinions on tank size and hob filter or canisters that won't break the bank. Also, the must haves for immediate treatment of the most common issues.
Thanks in advance.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hospital is basic:
One or 2 pvc tubes, tank, heater, power filter or sponge filter, basic light
 

vetteguy53081

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Keeping in mind I have a couple tangs, if they needed treatment recommendations on tank size?
No less than a 20high,
29g or 40g breeder would be ideal. A Rubbermaid tub would also suffice
 

Ratherbeflyen

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I built an all in one type of tank that fits perfectly in my stand next to my sump. (The wife won't tolerate quarantine tanks on the counter again.) ;)

IMG_20180621_103442.jpg
IMG_20180803_224020.jpg


I keep a small box of rubble rock in my sump. Then when I get a new fish, I just put the rock in the filter chamber and I've got a cycled tank. I used to just use rocks in the main part, but I've had fish injure themselves trying to hide in and under the rock. Now I just toss some cheato from my sump into the QT and with a clamp on cfl and there is nothing for a panicked fish to hurt themselves on. The cheato is a hiding spot and food source for some fish. I also put in float valve for an auto top off system that I consider a must for hypo salinity treatment.

For what parasites and disease to look for, I suggest you bookmark theses threads.




 

vetteguy53081

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Excellent. Thank you and always appreciate your insight.
And last.... a short list of must have meds on hand for the most common issues?
Ruby rally pro
Copper safe
Reliable copper test kit
Maracyn 2
Quick cure
 
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Ta2oodfreak

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I built an all in one type of tank that fits perfectly in my stand next to my sump. (The wife won't tolerate quarantine tanks on the counter again.) ;)

IMG_20180621_103442.jpg
IMG_20180803_224020.jpg


I keep a small box of rubble rock in my sump. Then when I get a new fish, I just put the rock in the filter chamber and I've got a cycled tank. I used to just use rocks in the main part, but I've had fish injure themselves trying to hide in and under the rock. Now I just toss some cheato from my sump into the QT and with a clamp on cfl and there is nothing for a panicked fish to hurt themselves on. The cheato is a hiding spot and food source for some fish. I also put in float valve for an auto top off system that I consider a must for hypo salinity treatment.

For what parasites and disease to look for, I suggest you bookmark theses threads.




Awesome set up. Thanks!
 

mdrobc13

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After losing a whole tank due to Marine velvet last Nov and then a nice Passer Angel due to inefficient QT set up I decided to do a better more organized set up. Went to Home Depot got some proper shelving and then sponge filters (transfered over from my HOB Aqueon ones) and a couple of cheap LED lights with timers built in from Amazon.com and am good to go. Added small nano cermac filter bags to season a biol load and a few very small rubble rocks in a few tanks and ta-day. So far have had very good results. Have total of 5 tanks set up 20Lx2, 15Lx2 and 1 10 g tank and each has its own filter and space and that way I can avoid overcrowding while QTing multiple fish at one time and everyone has their space. Since set up about a month a go...no losses. All fish are happy and got them eating brine, flake, and pellets. My PBT and PT now are taking nori from clips too and my hiding Angularis is eating now and swimming more out from his PVC pipe. Definately one of the better choices I've made as wife will not allow any more tanks in the main house and since I don't have a dedicated fish room outside where my main DT tank is (in my office) this setup in my garage works for me. Meds used are Prime, Coppersafe, Cuppermine, Reef dip, Water clarifier, and BioSpira to start and Nitrobact7 also for seeding.
 

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kingjoe

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I have been lucky fish wise, and have avoided quarantine of my fish after purchase.... But we all know luck eventually runs out with disease or injury. Plus I have a yellow tang that I am keeping a close eye on. So with that in mind I have decided to set up a hospital tank that will also be used for treatment and/or quarantine of future purchases to avoid the game of roulette when introducing new fish to my tanks.
So...help me come up with the ideal system without going overboard. Having a few tangs I imagine 20g won't do. Will 40g be adequate if one needs to be hospitalized or quarantined? I currently have a 180G, 25G lagoon as displays and a 13.5 Evo for growing out frags and quarantine of new corals.
I have a couple extra Kessil A80s with controller, cheap wave maker, some cycled live rock I don't mind dedicating if need be laying around so I can get this up and running.
Just would like some opinions on tank size and hob filter or canisters that won't break the bank. Also, the must haves for immediate treatment of the most common issues.
Thanks in advance.
I keep two quarantine tanks- one for fish, one for corals and inverts. The fish tank is an Aqueon 40 gallon breeder with a glass canopy, heater, and an AquaClear 500 for filtration. I have several sections of PVC piping lying about and a shallow basin of sand for any fish that may like to burrow. My coral tank is an Aqueon 20 gallon with a heater and an AquaClear 300, along with a small power-head for extra flow. There is no canopy on this one and I use a Kessil A80 Tuna Blue for lighting. Both tanks are cycled and I maintain them as I would a regular tank.
 
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Ta2oodfreak

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So....of course I made this post and now have an issue.
Blue hippo...been in the 180 for about 5 months. I haven't seen him in a few days and figured he was just hiding or had died and disappeared like my clown tang last year.
Today I found him wedged in rocks and he was slightly listing to one side. Obviously there is an issue so I ran out to the closest and only open pet store. I picked up a 20g long, aqueon filter and heater. Tossed in a cheap wavemaker I use to cycle rock. Filled the tank and got it up and going.
It was a fight....but I snagged the blue hippo in a net and transferred over.
All the store had left was API general cure so added that. Now observing.....
The fish is very sedentary, seems like rapid breathing and layer on the bottom a couple times before finding refuge in some pvc in the tank.
Parameters are all typical and solid....except I noticed my tank was running warm at 80-81 degrees.

Thoughts?
 

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Ta2oodfreak

Ta2oodfreak

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