What to do next

[JTA15]

This is my first tank added the live rock over 48hours ago along with some beneficial bacteria the rocks were already in a cycled tank and were transported in water properly heated with the correct salinity. There are no signs of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate.

I have 3 questions

- is my tank ready for fish or should I wait for nitrates to appear?

-If so, what fish should I get? I have Bristol worms that were in the rocks so maybe something that eats those.

-I believe the purple stuff on the rocks is Coralline algae and would like to keep it. Will it die if I keep the lights off for a couple months?

 

[tbrown]

You won't get any nitrates without ammonia or nitrites first - those get converted into nitrates.

Without food, the bacteria will starve.

To see if the tank is cycled with the bacteria and the live rock, add a little bit of fish food and test again tomorrow and see if you have nitrates or ammonia.

 

[Airedale Reef]

I prefer a fishless cycle when cycling a new tank:

Fishless cycling is all about using a clean ammonia source to build up a biofilter on pre-cured dry rock before adding fish. You can do this right in your display tank.

While fishless cycling can be done without adding bottled bacteria, it’s usually a good idea to dose nitrifying bacteria beforehand to speed up the process. The ammonia source you use will feed the bacteria and help them grow.

Fishless cycling is a simple process of dosing, waiting, and testing. The number of days it takes doesn’t matter; just wait until your rocks are ready for the next step before moving on.

Here’s what you do:

1. Dose ammonium chloride or another clean ammonia source, so the total ammonia level is between 1 and 2 ppm (don’t overdo it). If you accidentally dose too much, you can do a water change to bring down the ammonia level.

2. Wait for the total ammonia level to drop to 0.25 ppm. If the ammonia level goes up, your rocks weren’t fully cured, which will add time to this step.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until your rocks can process the dosed ammonia down to 0.25 ppm within 24 hours.


When you’re done, your tank will have a working biofilter that can handle a typical initial bio-load.

 

[Fish Fan]

I prefer a fishless cycle when cycling a new tank:

Fishless cycling is all about using a clean ammonia source to build up a biofilter on pre-cured dry rock before adding fish. You can do this right in your display tank.

While fishless cycling can be done without adding bottled bacteria, it’s usually a good idea to dose nitrifying bacteria beforehand to speed up the process. The ammonia source you use will feed the bacteria and help them grow.

Fishless cycling is a simple process of dosing, waiting, and testing. The number of days it takes doesn’t matter; just wait until your rocks are ready for the next step before moving on.

Here’s what you do:

1. Dose ammonium chloride or another clean ammonia source, so the total ammonia level is between 1 and 2 ppm (don’t overdo it). If you accidentally dose too much, you can do a water change to bring down the ammonia level.

2. Wait for the total ammonia level to drop to 0.25 ppm. If the ammonia level goes up, your rocks weren’t fully cured, which will add time to this step.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until your rocks can process the dosed ammonia down to 0.25 ppm within 24 hours.


When you’re done, your tank will have a working biofilter that can handle a typical initial bio-load.

The OP used real, wet live rock that's already cycled. There's no need for ammonia or additional bacteria

 

[tbrown]

Plus he said he added bottled bacteria as well.

 

[JumboShrimp]

Tank is looking good.

 

[Airedale Reef]

The OP used real, wet live rock that's already cycled. There's no need for ammonia or additional bacteria

haha - somehow I missed that completely thanks for pointing it out.

 

[JTA15]

You won't get any nitrates without ammonia or nitrites first - those get converted into nitrates.

Without food, the bacteria will starve.

To see if the tank is cycled with the bacteria and the live rock, add a little bit of fish food and test again tomorrow and see if you have nitrates or ammonia.

My nitrates test kit lowest reading is 5 ppm. What I suspect is happening is there is enough beneficial bacteria Inside of the tank that any ammonia produced by the living organisms on the rocks is being broken down into nitrates faster than it can accumulate and my test kit isn’t low enough to read it. I have a 29 gallon tank how much fish food should I add and by when should I expect the spike in ammonia to have occurred? How fast do the nitrates accumulate on a developed tank? I don’t think I should add 5 ppm of ammonia just to see if I get a nitrates reading.

 

[Dogeatbird]

Your tank appears to be a 20g tall?

Have you thought about what animals/fish/inverts; you would like?

Most herbivores tangs/rabbit fish, will out grow your aquarium.

Most fish in the damsel family are good hardy first fish.

Most gobies also are forgiving fish that adapt well to captivity.

I would start with a list of fish you would like

Will they work in my tank/budget.

Where will you acquire said fish. Local store, does the animal look healthy/normal.

Will the local shop show that it is eating. Will they add a little food, so I can see how the animal reacts.

 

[JTA15]

Your tank appears to be a 20g tall?

Have you thought about what animals/fish/inverts; you would like?

Most herbivores tangs/rabbit fish, will out grow your aquarium.

Most fish in the damsel family are good hardy first fish.

Most gobies also are forgiving fish that adapt well to captivity.

I would start with a list of fish you would like

Will they work in my tank/budget.

Where will you acquire said fish. Local store, does the animal look healthy/normal.

Will the local shop show that it is eating. Will they add a little food, so I can see how the animal reacts.

Yes, my tank is 29 gallons. My initial plan was to get a clown fish and wait a while for everything to stabilize and make sure the fish is healthy, then maybe add some bumblebee snails and eventually a small tang which I will trade in when it appears to outgrow the tank. My goal was to establish an algae eating fish into the tank before adding light. As I do not know anything about par levels or growing coal yet. And I want to avoid an algae outbreak.

The Bristol worms are my main concern making me think I should get some kind of parasite eating fish

 

[Dogeatbird]

Since no one else has answered this: yes coralline algae can fade if lights are left off.

Set a timer for a schedule that you will enjoy. Start at six hours photoperiod. Increase as you need or wish to enjoy.

6-8 hours is enough for a start. 12-14 hours is a good maximum amount.

Use a timer so it is consistent. Avoid throwing on the lights at random. Can startle animals.

 

[Dogeatbird]

A tang is your choice; most hobbyists would caution against.

A lawnmower blennnie, or a bi-color blennie; is another algae grazer that won’t outgrow. Also typically less prone to some issues tangs develop.

Algae won’t grow without some Light period.

Don’t fear the algae blooms, sooner or later all aqauriums have them.

 

[JTA15]

Since no one else has answered this: yes coralline algae can fade if lights are left off.

Set a timer for a schedule that you will enjoy. Start at six hours photoperiod. Increase as you need or wish to enjoy.

6-8 hours is enough for a start. 12-14 hours is a good maximum amount.

Use a timer so it is consistent. Avoid throwing on the lights at random. Can startle animals.

What color light or intensity should I use?

 

[Dogeatbird]

Basically full spectrum(white).

Can go more blue of that is what you enjoy.

Almost all photosynthetic organisms have a mechanism to select which light they will use.

White(full spectrum) shows all colors. Blue dominant can wash out some colors.

 

[JTA15]

A tang is your choice; most hobbyists would caution against.

A lawnmower blennnie, or a bi-color blennie; is another algae grazer that won’t outgrow. Also typically less prone to some issues tangs develop.

Algae won’t grow without some Light period.

Don’t fear the algae blooms, sooner or later all aqauriums have them.

Thanks

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Personally I would add a lot more rock, it looks kind of empty.

A tang would be a mistake, especially with no rocks like that, disease and ich would be the most likely result of that experience. Would suggest to stick with 4-5 nano fish.

 

[JTA15]

Personally I would add a lot more rock, it looks kind of empty.

A tang would be a mistake, especially with no rocks like that, disease and ich would be the most likely result of that experience. Would suggest to stick with 4-5 nano fish.

Unfortunately more rocks are just not in the budget. I have a hard time spending more than 150 bucks on rocks. Though I may add some dry rock later down the road if I see fit. As for the tang you are right. I wasn’t informed of all the other problems that would come with them. I will go with a different algae eater. Hopefully once I start adding fish and coral, the tank won’t look as empty

 

[Fish Fan]

Unfortunately more rocks are just not in the budget. I have a hard time spending more than 150 bucks on rocks.

It looks to me like you're getting real, wet live rock from a good local shop. If so, you can safely add a 2-3 pound chunk or two of wet live rock to your running system here and there over time. You don't have to drop $150 all at once on a bunch more rock

 

[JumboShrimp]

Have you tried Facebook Marketplace near you? I got all the rocks I need at a Dollar a pound. Keep looking, because they will eventually come up for sale by someone breaking down a tank, if they're not currently available. Best wishes.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Have you tried Facebook Marketplace near you? I got all the rocks I need at a Dollar a pound. Keep looking, because they will eventually come up for sale by someone breaking down a tank, if they're not currently available. Best wishes.

I did the same.