What's Your Controller?

joeyrm7 · Nov 14, 2016

how is the messaging?

n2585722 · Nov 14, 2016

joeyrm7 said:
how is the messaging?

Are talking about emails sent for alarms and such?
Example email below. This is the one sent after initial setup sending IP addresses. There is no Ethernet. IP since I didn't have the Ethernet hooked up.

[email protected]
4:26 PM

Email Alarm Alert from your Archon Webserver
To: [email protected]; [email protected]

Sun Jul 17 16:20:27 CDT 2016 Your alarm has triggered! This Archon is using the ethernet IP , and the wireless IP 192.168.1.118.

joeyrm7 · Nov 14, 2016

yes exactly for alarms

n2585722 · Nov 14, 2016

It is easy to setup you just have to enter the addresses that you want the emails sent. It will also send an email if there is a software update. When you program an alarm you just need to check the email flag if you want an email sent for that alarm. I did a breakdown on the Archon on my build blog at Reef Addicts. I did not get into the alarm setup yet. I was hoping to do a second part and get into alarms and timers but have not done it yet. It has some secreenshots from the Archon webpages using a iPad. A phone or computer will have a little different formatting for the webpages. The blog is here http://www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php/29352-The-Controller

projectx · Nov 14, 2016

Running the Reef Angel + on both tanks, I have the RF module on one tank for the Vortechs. On Both I have the wireless and the Bluetooth module. Makes it easy to program.

joeyrm7 · Nov 14, 2016

Great. Txs

Darryl · Mar 25, 2017

I'm using the Archon on my 220 and the RKE with net on my 75 nano and my coralife bio cube 29 has the RKL with net
Love all 3

Seth Goldberg · Mar 25, 2017

Just ordered a ReefKeeper light plus today. Been watching allot of videos on putting a controller on my tank and it seams like money well spent.
I am looking to make my temp more stable as well as put some timers on wave makers and skimmer. I also will be adding additional probes to help monitor everything

n2585722 · Mar 25, 2017

That sounds good

I would suggest seting you temp on your heaters to a couple of degrees above whe you will be setting the RKL. Then set the channel default for the heater outputs to on. That way id the power bar goes into fail save mode due to loss of communication with the RKL head unit the thermostat in the heaters themselves will take control.

Also if you do ever outgrow the 4 module limit of the RKL you can always upgrade to a RKE or Archon head unit. All modules are compatible with the RKE and most are compatible with the Archon. The ones that are not ( ( NET and RD1 modules) are not needed with the Archon. The Archon has network functionality already incorporated into it and remote displays are not necessary since you can use smartphones and tablets as your display.

Seth Goldberg · Mar 25, 2017

n2585722 said:
That sounds good

I would suggest seting you temp on your heaters to a couple of degrees above whe you will be setting the RKL. Then set the channel default for the heater outputs to on. That way id the power bar goes into fail save mode due to loss of communication with the RKL head unit the thermostat in the heaters themselves will take control.

Also if you do ever outgrow the 4 module limit of the RKL you can always upgrade to a RKE or Archon head unit. All modules are compatible with the RKE and most are compatible with the Archon. The ones that are not ( ( NET and RD1 modules) are not needed with the Archon. The Archon has network functionality already incorporated into it and remote displays are not necessary since you can use smartphones and tablets as your display.

My tank is only a 44g and I'm not running a sump at least for now. The RKL should be more than enough especially seeing I don't need extra ch for lights. As this is my first marine tank and my first controller time will tell if it's enough. From everything I have watched and read I think I have a solid plan for monitoring and protecting my tank. The only feature I want but can't afford now is the net module but I will add it soon. I do have one question is there any probe or module that I should pick up now such as the orp beyond the temp and ph probe that come with it?

n2585722 · Mar 25, 2017

Most don't use the ORP probe. It is OK to have. I have one, but don't control anything with it. If there is a sudden drop from your normal readings it can alert you something may be amiss. Like a dead animal. You will be getting a SLX module most likely and one port can be configured as either pH or ORP. If you have plans for a calcium reactor you will need a second pH port instead. Also the RKL comes with a iTemp port I believe. The SLX module also has a temp port that you can add a second temp probe to. I think they are only around $30 for the temp port. Just make sure you order the right probe. You may want to wait until you get the system to see which probe comes with the system. The probes are the same probe. It is the connector that is different on them. If I remember correctly the plus comes with the RKL and three module. The NET module does not count against the 4 module count. You can add another module. If you want the salinity probe you will also need a SL2V2 module. That module also has a pH port and temp port. Both SL modules have 2 switch inputs. If you use a salinity porbe with this module you will need a temp probe conmected to this module. It is also used for temp compensation for the salinity probe.

Seth Goldberg · Mar 25, 2017

n2585722 said:
Most don't use the ORP probe. It is OK to have. I have one, but don't control anything with it. If there is a sudden drop from your normal readings it can alert you something may be amiss. Like a dead animal. You will be getting a SLX module most likely and one port can be configured as either pH or ORP. If you have plans for a calcium reactor you will need a second pH port instead. Also the RKL comes with a iTemp port I believe. The SLX module also has a temp port that you can add a second temp probe to. I think they are only around $30 for the temp port. Just make sure you order the right probe. You may want to wait until you get the system to see which probe comes with the system. The probes are the same probe. It is the connector that is different on them. If I remember correctly the plus comes with the RKL and three module. The NET module does not count against the 4 module count. You can add another module. If you want the salinity probe you will also need a SL2V2 module. That module also has a pH port and temp port. Both SL modules have 2 switch inputs. If you use a salinity porbe with this module you will need a temp probe conmected to this module. It is also used for temp compensation for the salinity probe.

Fantastic I actually was thinking of picking up the SLV2 and a salinity probe. It makes sense to connect the temp probe hear although I didn't think about that.
I was trying to think of what to use a switch port for and the only thing I can think off is a third layer of protection for my osmolator. And in my current plan I should be able to loose one of the power bar and run on one if I need to add a different module beyond the 4 but for now beyond adding the SLV2 I don't think I need anything else. If I had started the tank with the controller I would have bought the tunze power heads and the module that would run them but I really thought I was not going to run a controller on this tank and just changed my mind to run one

n2585722 · Mar 25, 2017

I have the Archon and still use Vortech MP10s on my tank with reeflink. The only thing the Archon can control to them is power other than the link to the EcoSmart live website within the Archon webpages. I also have the battery backup for them. So if I cut power they go into a power fail mode and run off the battery backup. The battery charger is. ot connected to the Archon. These are part of my failsafe system. If for some reason the the Archon shut down the return pump the MP10s would run at least till the battery runs low if it actually is a loss of power causing it. They should run more than 24hrs that way.

Seth Goldberg · Mar 26, 2017

My plan is to use RKL with 2 PB4, SL2V2, and DCL for my power head. The SL2V2 will allow me to use the salinity,temp, and Ph which will cover what I want for now. If I need to double up on Ph probes then I can afford to lose one power bar to substitute the SLX to give the additional port.
With this only being a 44g and my lite's being led me only power requirements are for my HOB, skimmer, auto top off, and heater.
Dose this sound ok?

n2585722 · Mar 26, 2017

Losing a powerbar may not work. The power bars are also used to power your modules. The SL2v2 and NET modules are power hogs as far the modules go. The PB4 power bars do supply about twice what the PC4's supply though. The DCI module is a inteface module used to go between a APC module and a Jebao power head. Also not all the Jebao power heads will work with the DCI. The original Jebao power heads had the motor driver circuitry in the power head. Some of the newer ones have the drivers moved to the control box. The DCI module does not count as a module for thr system module count but the APC module will.

DracoKat · Mar 26, 2017

I use standard timers for my lights, and Reef Keeper Lite for my dosing and heater. A friend gave me the RKL. I don't need fancy computer get-up where I feel my money is better spent on corals, lol.

Daniel@R2R · Mar 26, 2017

I have been running a Puratek Insight 24/7 on my reefs for a few years. Just recently picked up an Apex Classic and a Ghl Profilux 3 to run my DT and frag tank systems (respectively). I hope to have a full comparison soon (got to install them first

), but for now I'll say that from all of my research, both of those systems are great options for any reefer.

n2585722 · Mar 26, 2017

DracoKat said:
I use standard timers for my lights, and Reef Keeper Lite for my dosing and heater. A friend gave me the RKL. I don't need fancy computer get-up where I feel my money is better spent on corals, lol.

This is the reason for the RKL. It is intended as a entry level controller. When it was first introduced the base RKL was less than $100. Since it is a entry level controller it has a 4 module limit. The modules are the same modules that are used with the more advanced comtrollers so if you ever need more than 4 module it is as simple as replacing the RKL head unit with a RKE or Archon head unit and reprogramming every thing in the new head unit.

DracoKat · Mar 26, 2017

n2585722 said:
This is the reason for the RKL. It is intended as a entry level controller. When it was first introduced the base RKL was less than $100. Since it is a entry level controller it has a 4 module limit. The modules are the same modules that are used with the more advanced comtrollers so if you ever need more than 4 module it is as simple as replacing the RKL head unit with a RKE or Archon head unit and reprogramming every thing in the new head unit.

exactly!

Seth Goldberg · Mar 26, 2017

n2585722 said:
Losing a powerbar may not work. The power bars are also used to power your modules. The SL2v2 and NET modules are power hogs as far the modules go. The PB4 power bars do supply about twice what the PC4's supply though. The DCI module is a inteface module used to go between a APC module and a Jebao power head. Also not all the Jebao power heads will work with the DCI. The original Jebao power heads had the motor driver circuitry in the power head. Some of the newer ones have the drivers moved to the control box. The DCI module does not count as a module for thr system module count but the APC module will.

I have the JebaoPP-4 dc power heads and the dci is supposed to be a direct connection for them.