Where do you all bud DI resin

I’ve always used cold water . When I first started I was told using hot water or even warm will be hard on the membrane and other cartridges .
I’ve always stuck to that and used cold
The membrane. That’s what hates hot water.
 
For those of you wondering when you should change your carbon blocks, it’s not every x months or twice a year. It says right on the package what they are rated for.

C2DD53F2-91DC-4344-9BAF-12025A27A292.png


So 99% of us need to change our carbon blocks after 2,000 gallons of water. Also keep in mind, that’s not 2,000 gallons of RO/Di water, that’s 2,000 gallons of TOTAL water processed. So that’s including your rejected water.
 
For those of you wondering when you should change your carbon blocks, it’s not every x months or twice a year. It says right on the package what they are rated for.

C2DD53F2-91DC-4344-9BAF-12025A27A292.png


So 99% of us need to change our carbon blocks after 2,000 gallons of water. Also keep in mind, that’s not 2,000 gallons of RO/Di water, that’s 2,000 gallons of TOTAL water processed. So that’s including your rejected water.
You keep track of that?
 
I haven’t yet. This is the second time replacing the di and sediment since getting it though. About every 2 months.

When do you all replace carbon blocks?

Normally they are rated for capacity. Like this one is rated at 35,000 gallons for chlorine and 2,000 for chloramines. My water treatment plant does not use chloramines but I still change at 2,000 gallons because they could switch at any time with no notice.

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The kind i have is color changing but i just hit 1 tds (somewhere in the middle of filling 32 gal:loudly-crying-face: so just wasted probably 20-25 gallons) and it lasted maybe 300-400 gallons. When mine hits 1 tds I change the sediment filter and 2x di resins. I just don’t want to order from the manufacturer again the shipping is ridiculous.

I used to have that problem. I now run 1 sediment filter canister, 2 carbon filter canisters (1 micron and 5 micron), and 3 mixed bed canisters.

I had tried the Cation/Anion/Mixed bed in separate canisters, but noticed the mixed bed gets used while the cation and anion did not.
 
You keep track of that?
Yup, as you should. It’s not that difficult. Figure out rejection rate, and do the simple math of how many gallons of RO/Di you’ve made times the rejection rate and you’ve got total water volume filtered.
 
For instance, my BRS system has a 3:1 ratio of waste water to filtered water. I use a 32 gallon brute can, so say I make 30 gallons of water at a time. That’s 120 gallons total. So I change my carbon block after I’ve filled my bin 16 times.
 
I was buying pre packaged 1lb vacuum sealed bags with no name on them .
that lfs stopped selling that brand and only offers brs brand which I have witnessed the same as you . It doesn’t last ( I’m getting maybe 30 gals water after refilling the cartridge
I know this is an old post but if your tap water has chlormines and you don’t have the proper carbon block to remove them or even chlorine it exhausts di resin quicker. Best to use a proper carbon block and test your post carbon block water I just test my waste line water for chlorine with a test strip.
 
I know this is an old post but if your tap water has chlormines and you don’t have the proper carbon block to remove them or even chlorine it exhausts di resin quicker. Best to use a proper carbon block and test your post carbon block water I just test my waste line water for chlorine with a test strip.
When you see the test come positive that’s when you need a new one.
 

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