Which Chlorine Test Kit For Checking Carbon Filters?

[Brewtoszek]

Hey All - I wanted to pick up a tester for chlorine to check the carbon on my RODI unit. Right now i'm between the Hanna standard total chlorine and the ULR.

Standard Range - 0 to 3.5ppm, 0.01ppm resolution
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/total-chlorine-colorimeter-hi711-hanna-checker-hc-fresh-water.html
Ultra Low Range - 0 to 500ppb (or 0.5ppm), 1ppb resolution
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tota...meter-hi761-hanna-checker-hc-fresh-water.html
Based on this article from the Hanna website i'm leaning towards the ULR;
https://blog.hannainst.com/chlorine-in-aquariums-aquaculture-0"Chlorine is a strong oxidant and can be lethal to most fish at level between 0.1-0.3 ppm. Although is its best to maintain levels below 0.001 to 0.003 ppm as health issues can arise in aquatic systems."

Is ULR the way to go or are there better options i should consider?

 

[Malcontent]

The ULR is probably the best value. The next step up is probably this.

The method limit is 0.02 mg/L or 20 ppb so the ULR shouldn't be able to accurately read below that even if it does spit out a number.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I'd personally just use a cheap chlorine kit.

Remember, even 1 ppm chlorine will get hugely diluted when using the water for top off.

 

[alton]

I use the test strips from my pool

 

[Woodyman]

I use a combination.

I use the strips these ones in particular I have found to be reliable. Amazon product ASIN B00N5IIZ1K
Once they register a color change I know there is some chlorine bleed through.

One the color change starts to register I then also check on a Hanna Meter, but I use this Hanna Meter. https://www.hannainst.com/free-and-...I4PgDRUR8mMsPdOOXpO3D6h6VbX_y_-xoCQy0QAvD_BwE

If I register at or above 0.1 I change the carbon blocks. If not I'll check again next time I make my RO/DI

 

[Brewtoszek]

Thanks for the feedback and perspective everybody!

I use a combination.

I use the strips these ones in particular I have found to be reliable. Amazon product ASIN B00N5IIZ1K
Once they register a color change I know there is some chlorine bleed through.

One the color change starts to register I then also check on a Hanna Meter, but I use this Hanna Meter. https://www.hannainst.com/free-and-...I4PgDRUR8mMsPdOOXpO3D6h6VbX_y_-xoCQy0QAvD_BwE

If I register at or above 0.1 I change the carbon blocks. If not I'll check again next time I make my RO/DI

Good find on those low range strips, my previous searches on Amazon did not find those, i'm going to give that a try for now.

 

[Woodyman]

Thanks for the feedback and perspective everybody!


Good find on those low range strips, my previous searches on Amazon did not find those, i'm going to give that a try for now.

They are more expensive then the cheaper strips but I've found them to be fairly accurate in the low ranges

 

[Austinsdepenbrock]

I'd personally just use a cheap chlorine kit.

Remember, even 1 ppm chlorine will get hugely diluted when using the water for top off.

Could you link one you would use please?

 

[Austinsdepenbrock]

I'd personally just use a cheap chlorine kit.

Remember, even 1 ppm chlorine will get hugely diluted when using the water for top off.

Could you link one you would use please?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I don’t have a particular set of chlorine test strips to use for an ro/di. If you decide to measure chlorine, check the tap water first to be sure you see the expected value.