Which fish to practice quarantine?

[Reefnob]

I have been terrible when it comes to saltwater fish quarantine. Every fish I have tried to quarantine has ended up dead (flame back angels, tailspot blenny).

I plan to add fish into my aquarium again, but would like to know, in your opinion, which of the following would be the best fish to try to learn to quarantine with?:

Yellow Coris
Fire fish
Tailspot Blenny
Other?

Or would you go with something else? Part of the requirement is that they also have to be a good 1st fish in terms of temperament (so I can add fish later).

Primary goal right now is to add some pest control and algae grazers to keep my coral clean.

 

[CHSUB]

How are you QT? Seems to me your process is the problem…

 

[The Ugly Phase]

buy already qted

 

[Reefnob]

How are you QT? Seems to me your process is the problem…

Previously I tried to follow instructions with Cupramine. And yes, I would agree that my process was not nearly good enough. I am used to fresh water fish quarantine and it is not nearly as meticulous nor are the fish as sensitive. That was definitely my fault.

Since then I have gotten myself the salifert copper test kit, but have not attempted to quarantine again.

Currently have no fish in my systems (since 10/28) and ready to start over with fish stocking.

No space to run the tank transfer method.

 

[ReefED!]

Tailspot Blennies aren't that easy to QT, IMO

I was successful with the one that I QT'd but they can be picky to eat since they normally want to eat algae off rocks/scape and will take a few days to even start trying to eat other foods

I found plankton foods like calanus/cyclopods etc. were effective

Tangs QT really well - and of course clownfish.

Damsels do as well but Damsels can come with uronema and other issues and die during QT for no apparent reason

I'd look up the SR QT method

It does a pseudo-tank transfer because you do a 100% water change every 3 days, + copper / prazipro / metronidazole

The weak spot is uronema - if you get a fish that has it already, it'll probably develop and die - but if it's mild and not internal it'll take care of it.

 

[Szweier]

Make sure the tank is large enough for the fish you’re qting. Many times the issue with qt deaths is the ammonia spike since qt setups don’t have the bio setup to handle the ammonia. Best you can do there is have a large enough tank to disperse the ammonia. That and water changes but that’ll compete with whatever medications you put in. Also make sure you have proper aeration so the fish can breathe. You also want to make sure you acclimate the fish to your qt water.

Lastly, something else you should ask yourself is, whether or not the store you’re purchasing from is part of the issue.

 

[ReefED!]

Make sure the tank is large enough for the fish you’re qting. Many times the issue with qt deaths is the ammonia spike since qt setups don’t have the bio setup to handle the ammonia. Best you can do there is have a large enough tank to disperse the ammonia. That and water changes but that’ll compete with whatever medications you put in. Also make sure you have proper aeration so the fish can breathe. You also want to make sure you acclimate the fish to your qt water.

Lastly, something else you should ask yourself is, whether or not the store you’re purchasing from is part of the issue.

Great point - it's a lot easier to have your QT tank setup with the 1.19 salinity or whatever most of these retailers are running so you can reduce some of that acclimation stress.

I like to run an airstone

100% water changes really helps resolve the ammonia issues - make sure to use those Seachem Alert badges, because in my experience the Copper throws off the ammonia tests for both Hanna and Red Sea kits.

 

[mfinn]

For some the whole quarantine process is too lengthy and too detailed, or just more than they want to do.
For those, Dr Reef sells fully quarantined fish and saves you from the expense of the qt tank, chemicals, test kits, etc.

 

[KrisReef]

Previously I tried to follow instructions with Cupramine. And yes, I would agree that my process was not nearly good enough. I am used to fresh water fish quarantine and it is not nearly as meticulous nor are the fish as sensitive. That was definitely my fault.

Since then I have gotten myself the salifert copper test kit, but have not attempted to quarantine again.

Currently have no fish in my systems (since 10/28) and ready to start over with fish stocking.

No space to run the tank transfer method.

I am wondering what size tank you are stocking, what other things are you looking to keep alive in the tank, and if having squeaky clean (qt-treated fish) is necessary, or optional for your needs?

I don’t want to revisit the debate over whether or how to QT, or not is “The right thing to do.” My question (thought for you) is what you are trying to accomplish- so that advice given here is applicable to your specific situation.

Someone else has already suggested purchasing only pre-QT’d fish, which may be the best way for you to progress, but without knowing what you are looking to accomplish it’s not certain what pathway(s) are actually available!

Your admission of qt failure thus far seems troubling, and I hope we can find a more appropriate solution to change your outcomes for the future and successful aquarium stockings.

 

[Dom]

I have been terrible when it comes to saltwater fish quarantine. Every fish I have tried to quarantine has ended up dead (flame back angels, tailspot blenny).

I plan to add fish into my aquarium again, but would like to know, in your opinion, which of the following would be the best fish to try to learn to quarantine with?:

Yellow Coris
Fire fish
Tailspot Blenny
Other?

Or would you go with something else? Part of the requirement is that they also have to be a good 1st fish in terms of temperament (so I can add fish later).

Primary goal right now is to add some pest control and algae grazers to keep my coral clean.

I don't know that I would select a fish based on its ease of QT.

Keep it simple. Personally, I do a 90 day observation in a holding tank. No copper or pro-active treatments of any kind. If there are no signs of illness, in they go after 90 days.

I only worry about illness when I encounter it. I've been in the hobby around 20 years and have only encountered ICH one time. So I feel fish are healthier than we think.