Which hanna phosphate checker do you use? And which should I use? HI774 vs HI713 vs HI736

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Which Hanna Phosphate checker do you use?


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Muffin87

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I'm a bit overwhelmed by the number of Hanna Checker for phosphate.
I've opened a poll to see which one you guys use.

Could someone correct me if my understanding of these three checkers is wrong? And maybe suggest which one I should get?

The HI774 sounds like the best choice for someone who wants to keep their tank with phosphate slightly above the Ultra Low mark (above 0.04 ppm).
From what I can tell, the release of the HI774 effectively made the HI736 obsolete, to the point where the real choice now is between the HI713 and the HI774?
I don't get tho why the HI774 has so few and mixed reviews on the BRS website o_O, even tho it sounds like it should be the checker that is best suited for the average reefer?
  1. HI713 Phosphate Low Range
    • Not accurate at lower values that are attained by good Chaeto filtration and GFO.
    • Test could read 0, when you actually do have enough phosphate. Not safe.
    • Only buy if you plan on keeping your phosphate level higher than what is recommended for reef tanks (<0.2 ppm)
    • Upper limit (2.5 ppm) is so high that it's actually a bit useless.
  2. HI736 Phosphorous Ultra Low Range
    • Earlier "flawed" version of HI774
      • Needs mathematical conversion to phosphate
      • Timer is too strict
      • Upper limit is too low (0.6 ppm)
  3. HI774 Phosphate Ultra low Range
    • Later improved version of HI736
      • No need for conversion
      • Timer extended
      • Upper limit extended (0.9 ppm)
    • Weirdly, reviews on the BRS website are rather mixed? Why?
Sources:
Hanna-checkers Phosphate or Phosphorus Testing with Hanna Checkers? - BRS article posted before the release of the HI774
All New Hanna Phosphate 2018 Version (First Look,Tips) - YouTube video review of the HI774 compared to the HI736, by EAT SLEEP Reef
 

G Santana

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It's funny you post this, I just ordered a couple of hundred bucks of test kits today. The two Hanna I was told were a must have initially were the Alk and Phosphate.
I went on Amazon to take advantage of their sales today and when I pulled up the Phosphate test kit, my head started to swim with options and descriptions.
Lol after reading everything, I ordered the H1713 and after reading this, I feel confident I chose wisely lol
 

Daddy-o

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Why is it crap?
Well it turns off after 2 minutes. Hanna says add the regent and shake for 2 minutes. Well when I am done mixing, the unit has shut itself off. It has 2 vials but Hanna says to only use one because variations in the glass will give false readings. Some people short mix the regent but it take me a full 2 minutes to add and shake/dissolve the regent. I hold the vial up into sunlight at 1.5 minutes and I can still see particles. I contacted Hanna but they have no customer support and never responded. Hanna realized this was an issue and added time to the timer, but apparently the one I bought from @Bulk Reef Supply still had the 2 minute time out version in stock and thats what I got stuck with. I am gonna start using the Red Sea Pro.
 

ksturm079

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Well it turns off after 2 minutes. Hanna says add the regent and shake for 2 minutes. Well when I am done mixing, the unit has shut itself off. It has 2 vials but Hanna says to only use one because variations in the glass will give false readings. Some people short mix the regent but it take me a full 2 minutes to add and shake/dissolve the regent. I hold the vial up into sunlight at 1.5 minutes and I can still see particles. I contacted Hanna but they have no customer support and never responded. Hanna realized this was an issue and added time to the timer, but apparently the one I bought from @Bulk Reef Supply still had the 2 minute time out version in stock and thats what I got stuck with. I am gonna start using the Red Sea Pro.
After your initial reading of the untreated water press and hold the button. A 3 minute timer starts on the unit after which it will run the test of the treated water. I usually rip the packet of powder beforehand so that when I press the button it's 30 seconds until I'm shaking then a cruise to the finish line.
 

Spieg

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774 is what I recommend unless you let your levels get super high (I try to never go above 0.1 - EVER).
 

Daddy-o

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After your initial reading of the untreated water press and hold the button. A 3 minute timer starts on the unit after which it will run the test of the treated water. I usually rip the packet of powder beforehand so that when I press the button it's 30 seconds until I'm shaking then a cruise to the finish line.
mine is 2 minutes
 

homer1475

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HI736 or the HI713 should be the only one anyone is using.

736 requires some math or look at a conversion chart, the 713 is the same meter, just does the conversion for you.

736 outputs a reading in phosphorous(ppb), requires a conversion to phosphate(ppm)
713 outputs a reading in phosphate(ppm)

736 has a standard 3 minute timer, mine is about 5 years old and has a 3 minute timer.
Add tank water to cuvette, cut open reagent pack, take C1 reading, immediately open checker and dump in reagent, start 2 minute timer and shake vigorously for those 2 minutes. After 2 minute timer, replace cuvette, and press and hold the button for an additional 3 minute timer. After the 3 minute timer is up, it gives you your reading.

Doing the test this way(the way Hanna youtube vids have you run the test), I have never had the meter time out before I finish the test. I have had the meter shut off before I recorded the reading though, as I was doing other things.
 

JSully_94

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HI736 or the HI713 should be the only one anyone is using.

736 requires some math or look at a conversion chart, the 713 is the same meter, just does the conversion for you.

736 outputs a reading in phosphorous(ppb), requires a conversion to phosphate(ppm)
713 outputs a reading in phosphate(ppm)

736 has a standard 3 minute timer, mine is about 5 years old and has a 3 minute timer.
Add tank water to cuvette, cut open reagent pack, take C1 reading, immediately open checker and dump in reagent, start 2 minute timer and shake vigorously for those 2 minutes. After 2 minute timer, replace cuvette, and press and hold the button for an additional 3 minute timer. After the 3 minute timer is up, it gives you your reading.

Doing the test this way(the way Hanna youtube vids have you run the test), I have never had the meter time out before I finish the test. I have had the meter shut off before I recorded the reading though, as I was doing other things.
Why should one only use the HI736 or HI713 variant? I use the HI774 version and have never had an issue.
 

zuri

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HI736 or the HI713 should be the only one anyone is using.

736 requires some math or look at a conversion chart, the 713 is the same meter, just does the conversion for you.

736 outputs a reading in phosphorous(ppb), requires a conversion to phosphate(ppm)
713 outputs a reading in phosphate(ppm)

736 has a standard 3 minute timer, mine is about 5 years old and has a 3 minute timer.
Add tank water to cuvette, cut open reagent pack, take C1 reading, immediately open checker and dump in reagent, start 2 minute timer and shake vigorously for those 2 minutes. After 2 minute timer, replace cuvette, and press and hold the button for an additional 3 minute timer. After the 3 minute timer is up, it gives you your reading.

Doing the test this way(the way Hanna youtube vids have you run the test), I have never had the meter time out before I finish the test. I have had the meter shut off before I recorded the reading though, as I was doing other things.
this i use the 736 for precise measurements
 

Pistondog

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Hi713 works fine for me.
I thought I read error on lr is 0.06 ppm, ulr is 0.03 ppm.

Anything below 0.1 is sufficient.
 

zuri

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They both are ULR. The difference between the HI-736 and the HI-774 is that the 736 range is 0-200 ppb and the 774 is 0-0.90 ppm. The HI-736 will be more precise in the low range we are concerned with and the one that should be used if trying to maintain below .03 ppm. The margin of error on the 736 is 5 ppb, so the checker could show .031 but the true reading might be .046, so accurate enough although not perfect, but it will be more accurate in the ultra low ranges where the 774 won’t be. The 774 has a margin of error of .02 ppm, which is a similar margin of error as the 736 but the 736 will be more accurate closer to 0 ppm, which is what we want. I believe Hanna recently came out with the HI-774 for ease of getting readings in ppm for the marine hobbyist without having to convert ppb to ppm, but just speculating. I think this because it is not much less accurate (or any more accurate), than the HI-736.

Last edited: Apr 16, 2019
 
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