Valuable MemberView Badges
- Feb 15, 2012
- Reaction score
You really want to make this thread a fight about the different types (LED, T5 and halides), don't you? Not this time... not this time!This guy......
Reef metal halides are not full spectrum and he was just in the zoanthid forum telling people not to use LEDs for zoas /palys which is hysterically bad advice. A 6500k metal halide just puts out more green and yellow / orange spikes than a deeper blue reef halide, and I can post the spectral charts to prove it.
Halide bulbs have narrower bandwidth spikes than LEDs by far - industry fact, not an opinion. Again, google the spectrums for various reef halides and you will see how much color spectrum is missing . A 5600k LED has a far more gradual visible spectrum than tubes or halides. All are missing big chunks of color compared to the sun or true full spectrum artificial light sources like plasma sulfur.
Metal halides do produce some levels of true UV, but this level varies to a large degree depending on filter and jacket types. No proof UV of any sort is required for coral growth. In vitro spectral absorption myths are commonly debunked when the entire macro organism is taken in to account.
'White' is not a color or wavelength. White is a composite of colors that to our eyes looks 'white' (covered in grade school science class). I can produce an off white with just orange and blue. A little higher CRI if I use red green and blue.
Not going to comment on the "IR radiaton" other than do you pronounce 1.21 jigawatts or gigawatts?
If I compare the spectrums of 5600k CCT halide, LED and flourescent light sources they will all have a similiar component of blue with the LEDs having a smidge of far red if it's phillips based LEDs (Crees tend to stop around 630nm) while the tubes and halide have some short spikes below 400nm. The amount of any UV is still trivial.
All 5600 kelvin artificial light sources otherwise have massive amounts of 450nm blue. This is basically the same age old argument if 20k lights grow coral better than 10k lights with just different marketing terms thrown in. Both grow coral well, with water chemistry being far more important. The most amazing SPS tanks I've seen in person are all using black boxes on basic lamp timers with two modes - off / on. If you can't grow coral with simple black boxes the problem exists between keyboard and chair (PEBKAC).
That doesn't say what you think it says..ever..You really want to make this thread a fight about the different types (LED, T5 and halides), don't you? Not this time... not this time!
This is a thread for everyone to tell what they think about what's the BEST. See all these as personal opinions. That is the way I want you to see my post!
Edit: And this is for whoever is interested... The whole video is good!
1) The NEED of uv is at best overblown, at worst unnecessary..100% is what actual practice and experience tell me and what I say that is...
He likes videos...
Clearly there is a wide discrepancy between the spectral irradiance provided by MH and the natural under water light field. We know from experience that we can grow coral under all the 3 major classes of metal halide lamps 6500K, 10000K and 20000K, so the corals must either adapt to the spectrum or ignore the spectral quality. Unfortunately I do not have any definitive answers to this, hopefully further research will be able to provide more definitive answers.
Time for you to show us in practice then. Do it. Put all that in practice and show us. I would love to see the actual application of your ideas.1) The NEED of uv is at best overblown, at worst unnecessary..
2) Besides cost the ony difference in lensing is either a) using glass.. (ohh how techy) or b) newer optical resins..
Neither of which are "bank breaking" ...
This article presents some data on the underwater light field on a reef and compares it to the artificial light field over our reef aquaria, along with discussion of other features of natural lighting that are often not simulated in our aquariums.www.advancedaquarist.com
That's kinda playing with crayons, man.If you want to get close to sunlight spectrum, plasma is closer than metal halide in our measurements. Here's the spectrum from when we tested our plasma.
We've also done some experiments on O2 production under different diods. For most corals blue and red made the corals produce most O2, but close to white. Green also made then produce O2, but a little less.
It's not published yet, and I can't see the data right now so that's just from my memory. Could be wrong
I've also tested growing some corals under just blue and just red. Blue won
I didn't say LED is better, or plasma is better, or MH is better. I just showed a picture of our meassument of the spectrum of a plasma light so people could compare with the spectrum of sunlight. I think it looks closer to the graphs I've seen on sunlight. Compare yourself.That's kinda playing with crayons, man.
Remove the halides and get those LEDs over those systems once for all. Come back in a year or 2 and let us know the differences in growth speed / structure, and colors. Have fun.
Tip: avoid playing with the spectrum too much cause the results will be worse than you think.
Which part?Time for you to show us in practice then. Do it. Put all that in practice and show us. I would love to see the actual application of your ideas.
got a free pint sitting here..
First there are 1000's of tanks running w/out UV or IR.
As to the lenses..
Just look at bluacro and the use of specialty plastics to allow UV in their diodes..
Why re-invent the wheel.. It's already been done.. over and over again..Your part, Oreo. Set up a tank with LEDs and another with halides and show us the differences, practically.