Here is the old tank, all the rocks moved over, minus the zoa garden
Beautiful tank. How did SPS fair in this one?
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Here is the old tank, all the rocks moved over, minus the zoa garden
At first glance a few things come up.
Phosphates do seem a bit high, but not enough where it would be killing SPS.
What temp do you keep the tank? How stable is the temp? Acros really don't like the temp changing too much.
Alk seems fine but how stable is it? I know I had alk stability issues for a week and ended up loosing most of my SPS. To test this, test your alk at the same time everyday over three or four days.
People saying your tank is too young, I don't get why. If you've taken rock that was previously set up then there shouldn't be any issue with that. I was growing SPS long before I saw any coralline algae growing in my tank.
The next thought would be to look at stray voltage and heavy metals just to cross those off your list.
Also with the carbon, that seems like an awful lot of carbon to be running. Is there a specific reason you run carbon? Realistically you should only run carbon if you know your corals are doing chemical warfare or if your water isn't clear. Even then, you really don't need a whole lot of carbon and you don't need to run it 24/7. Some say it is possible to strip too much from the water with carbon, though the effects of doing so aren't agreed upon. So again, don't think this is your issue but wanted to mention this. Also, if you want to test if your water is clear or not, the best way is to take a bit of tank water and put it in a white Styrofoam cup. You'll be able to easily tell if its clear or not.
I would recommend an icp test and voltage test. I’m not familiar with your light fixture but your leds could be burning your acros if they are mounted too close, regardless of par. My hydras need to be mounted much higher than other led modules.The temperature in the tank is 78.5, controlled with an inkbird. However, I have noticed it fluctuates up and down some. And I have read and seen that some people have issues with accuracy with them.
I test my ALK each week at the same time, and they are typically within 8.8-8.6. However, I will try to do daily testing and see if the numbers are different.
I do have a grounding probe in there, but I haven't tested for stray voltage. All the equipment is new, a couple of months old. So I would hope I don't have any corrosion issues for metals or voltage to leak in.
I run carbon because my old tank was mainly softies, one rock is all softies, and chemical warfare was a daily accuracy. I added three bags of carbon to the old tank, and it seemed to stop. I started this tank with carbon, but I don't know if it is doing anything. I could stop running it or just run it on a timer to see any change.
I'm not sure about the day and night swings. I do have a refugium with chaeto, bubble algae, and GHA with the light on the opposite schedule as the DT. I have tested PH at mid-day and midnight, and it doesn't change much 7.9-8.0. The last thing I added was a couple of clams at the start of the month. I have both softies and LPS, and those are doing good.@Charlies Frags That's not a fair assessment because everyone's tank is different. Those numbers work for you your tank is also established more, close to redfield ratio, so is she though. I think maybe more of a stability thing. Coralline sensitive to this too, is why you don't see a ton of it. How big are day night swings? When last time added anything? Any other coral maybe toxic to sps?
When did you last change all your ro/di filters?I'm not sure about the day and night swings. I do have a refugium with chaeto, bubble algae, and GHA with the light on the opposite schedule as the DT. I have tested PH at mid-day and midnight, and it doesn't change much 7.9-8.0. The last thing I added was a couple of clams at the start of the month. I have both softies and LPS, and those are doing good.
Beautiful tank. How did SPS fair in this one?
It has been a while. I always check my TDS when making water, always zero, and I have the color-changing media that is only about half brown.When did you last change all your ro/di filters?
Get an icp testIt has been a while. I always check my TDS when making water, always zero, and I have the color-changing media that is only about half brown.
I try to acclimate over a couple of weeks. I have read that corals can survive at light lower than they need much longer than lights too high. I have a coral rack, and when I get orders in, I start them all on the rack at the bottom and then move it up a little each day. However, now I question if my PAR meter was off or if the lights are just too close to the water.Lots of good and often conflicting advice here. I would take it slow and don't adjust multiple things at once. I agree with steady Alk for SPS and I don't like to see mine move more than .2 dkh during a 24 hour period and if it gets out of my preferred range I try to make adjustments over multiple days to get it back in range.
ICP tests can be helpful to find a potential problem and or rule out other things as a problem.
Also I have found lack of light doesn't kill SPS quickly. I have had some thrive with PAR in mid 100s. I would acclimate the SPS slowly when you add them. Start low and move them up a little higher each week in the tank until you get them where you want them. Alternatively you can turn the lights down and ramp them up a little each week. the downside to the lights method is it kinda impacts everything in the tank vs just the corals you are trying to acclimate.
Not familiar with those lights. I would look into the optimal height. I would expect someone has tested them for spread and hot spots at different heights. I know BRS does a lot of that type of testing so may be a place to look.I try to acclimate over a couple of weeks. I have read that corals can survive at light lower than they need much longer than lights too high. I have a coral rack, and when I get orders in, I start them all on the rack at the bottom and then move it up a little each day. However, now I question if my PAR meter was off or if the lights are just too close to the water.
Lots of good and often conflicting advice here. I would take it slow and don't adjust multiple things at once. I agree with steady Alk for SPS and I don't like to see mine move more than .2 dkh during a 24 hour period and if it gets out of my preferred range I try to make adjustments over multiple days to get it back in range.
ICP tests can be helpful to find a potential problem and or rule out other things as a problem.
Also I have found lack of light doesn't kill SPS quickly. I have had some thrive with PAR in mid 100s. I would acclimate the SPS slowly when you add them. Start low and move them up a little higher each week in the tank until you get them where you want them. Alternatively you can turn the lights down and ramp them up a little each week. the downside to the lights method is it kinda impacts everything in the tank vs just the corals you are trying to acclimate.