Why can't i keep coral

[Jekyl]

Does anyone know if I can dose using tank water? Or does it have to be the ro water

I would stick with RO. Not sure if it matters but never seen it recommended otherwise.

 

[Duffer]

30% whites is a lot, I have mine around 9%

 

[Duffer]

30% whites is a lot, I have mine around 9%

 

[srobertb]

shouldnt alk be like 11

It should be higher than 2. 8-12 depending on so many factors. A high Alk level is beneficial in high nutrient situations (I believe) but I’m not sure how relevant that is with soft corals.

I’m guessing at “2” he’s got a lot of problems he isn’t aware of. PH probably dips to like 5 at night.

 

[Jenny_rs]

30% whites is a lot, I have mine around 9%

Sorry not whites lol I'm in a slow panic over my alk...whites are usually around 10 or 15%

 

[Bribo12]

It should be higher than 2. 8-12 depending on so many factors. A high Alk level is beneficial in high nutrient situations (I believe) but I’m not sure how relevant that is with soft corals.

I’m guessing at “2” he’s got a lot of problems he isn’t aware of. PH probably dips to like 5 at night.

It’s 2 meq/L( 5.6 dkh) not 2 dkh. It’s still low but not 2 dkh low.

 

[srobertb]

Okay what am I dosing with

Hi. You have a small tank. You could look into premixed solutions. I use Red Sea a,b,c in 5L jugs on my large tank but it can be expensive. Obviously less expensive on your small tank but still. “All for Reef” by Tropic Marin is an excellent all-in-one for nano tanks. For $50 you can get a little dosing pump to automate it.

No matter what: I’d do major water changes to get my parameters in line, use reef crystals or other high parameter mix, and run with that. You don’t need to add a buffer or soda ash.

For a soft coral tank, water changes weekly or every other week should be PLENTY to keep your parameters in line. I’ve kept mixed reef nano (under 60g tanks) for years and have always gotten by on water changes for parameters. I’ve grown and kept just about one of everything at one point.

Past that, turn your lights down. Or better yet, ask the person you’re buying from their light intensity and schedule. If I buy from someone running T5’s, I turn down my high powered LED’s. I also try and buy from places that use the same lights as I do to ease the transition. Unless I have to have a specific coral, I pass.

Check you Ph 45-60 minutes before your lights come on and then again 2/3 or so through your light schedule mid-day. My lights come on at 7. My Ph is at its lowest around 5:30-6am. My Ph is highest around 3pm. I imagine you’ll see a large swing if you check.

Your Alk is low. I think you’ve learned that now. Aim for 8dkh. Reach this through water changes with a good salt (any by good I mean high parameters).

 

[Jenny_rs]

Hi. You have a small tank. You could look into premixed solutions. I use Red Sea a,b,c in 5L jugs on my large tank but it can be expensive. Obviously less expensive on your small tank but still. “All for Reef” by Tropic Marin is an excellent all-in-one for nano tanks. For $50 you can get a little dosing pump to automate it.

No matter what: I’d do major water changes to get my parameters in line, use reef crystals or other high parameter mix, and run with that. You don’t need to add a buffer or soda ash.

For a soft coral tank, water changes weekly or every other week should be PLENTY to keep your parameters in line. I’ve kept mixed reef nano (under 60g tanks) for years and have always gotten by on water changes for parameters. I’ve grown and kept just about one of everything at one point.

Past that, turn your lights down. Or better yet, ask the person you’re buying from their light intensity and schedule. If I buy from someone running T5’s, I turn down my high powered LED’s. I also try and buy from places that use the same lights as I do to ease the transition. Unless I have to have a specific coral, I pass.

Check you Ph 45-60 minutes before your lights come on and then again 2/3 or so through your light schedule mid-day. My lights come on at 7. My Ph is at its lowest around 5:30-6am. My Ph is highest around 3pm. I imagine you’ll see a large swing if you check.

Your Alk is low. I think you’ve learned that now. Aim for 8dkh. Reach this through water changes with a good salt (any by good I mean high parameters).

Thank you, my lighting schedule is set for 3pm to 12am, mainly so I can enjoy the tank while I'm at home after work. I'll have a test of my ph tonight. I have been getting my salt water from my lfs but looks like I'll be making my own from now on. I have a container of Kent marine salt mix which says it should yield a ph of 8.2 to 8.3.

 

[BrianAnthony]

Um... May I have a shot at this?

Before you go out and dose anything... There is a lot of info you should go over first. Dosing is not a good thing to do when there is obviously something majorly wrong. Water changes on a regular schedule will be the best way, because your reef salt has the majority of things you need in it. It sets your dkh, calcium, pH, etc.

So, let's start with the basics first...
You use Ro/di water?
Do you have a well or city water?
How old are your ro/di filter cartridges?
What salt brand do you use? (Diff salts have diff values)


Answer these and we'll move on... I'll check this post regularly.

 

[Jenny_rs]

Um... May I have a shot at this?

Before you go out and dose anything... There is a lot of info you should go over first. Dosing is not a good thing to do when there is obviously something majorly wrong. Water changes on a regular schedule will be the best way, because your reef salt has the majority of things you need in it. It sets your dkh, calcium, pH, etc.

So, let's start with the basics first...
You use Ro/di water?
Do you have a well or city water?
How old are your ro/di filter cartridges?
What salt brand do you use? (Diff salts have diff values)


Answer these and we'll move on... I'll check this post regularly.

I use the aquatic life ro di buddy which is brand new only a few months old and I've only used it a handful of times. I have city water, and the brand of salt I was using is unknown as I was getting premixed salt water from my lfs. The brand I have at home is the Kent Marine reef salt mix as pictured below.

 

[PokeFish]

I use the aquatic life ro di buddy which is brand new only a few months old and I've only used it a handful of times. I have city water, and the brand of salt I was using is unknown as I was getting premixed salt water from my lfs. The brand I have at home is the Kent Marine reef salt mix as pictured below.

have you ever tested the water u get at your lfs... also how often do u wc

 

[Jenny_rs]

have you ever tested the water u get at your lfs... also how often do u wc

No and the fact that my alk and ph are so low has me questioning it. I was doing monthly water changes but I will be increasing this to every week now.

 

[PokeFish]

No and the fact that my alk and ph are so low has me questioning it. I was doing monthly water changes but I will be increasing this to every week now.

should prob test the water lol

 

[BrianAnthony]

I use the aquatic life ro di buddy which is brand new only a few months old and I've only used it a handful of times. I have city water, and the brand of salt I was using is unknown as I was getting premixed salt water from my lfs. The brand I have at home is the Kent Marine reef salt mix as pictured below.

Ok Ms Jenny.. I too have the reef buddy... The reef buddy only filters out chlorine. Chloramine is in many public water systems. Yours probably uses chloramines too. (You can contact them for verification) The aquatic life website says that it doesn't filter chloramines btw. I bought an additional canister and an additional carbon block from aquatic life from Amazon... The 10 in kind.

Or, for now, you can purchase:

Chloramines last much longer in the tank than chlorine. If you purchase the api product, treat all water being added to the tank.

So there is your first issue.. chloramines.

How often and how many gallons do you change out with your Kent Salt?

 

[Jenny_rs]

Ok Ms Jenny.. I too have the reef buddy... The reef buddy only filters out chlorine. Chloramine is in many public water systems. Yours probably uses chloramines too. (You can contact them for verification) The aquatic life website says that it doesn't filter chloramines btw. I bought an additional canister and an additional carbon block from aquatic life from Amazon... The 10 in kind.

Or, for now, you can purchase:

Chloramines last much longer in the tank than chlorine. If you purchase the api product, treat all water being added to the tank.

So there is your first issue.. chloramines.

How often and how many gallons do you change out with your Kent Salt?

I was doing once a month with 2 to 3 gallons changed

 

[Rmckoy]

For the low alk .
I’d recommend esv b ionic 2 part .
but before dosing anything .
first test the water you’re buying .
confirm numbers of alk and ph are low with a few different tests .

there are many dosing calculators
But I would never dose more than 1dkh in 24 hours .
less is more

 

[BrianAnthony]

I was doing once a month with 2 to 3 gallons changed

Ok.. so that was like a 20-30% once a month.

I know you are a busy person like me... Assuming your nitrates are really around 40ppm. Major water changes are needed. Like 2 gallons every other day until the nitrates get down to about 5ppm. That's a lot of work.
I wouldn't do large water changes at this point because it's not like you dumped drano in there. And, large water changes aren't the best either.

Here is what I would do:
-Before doing any water change, perform the nitrate test and record it.
-Religiously 1x per week do a 3gallon water change.
-Cut in half the amount you feed

Since you don't have a skimmer (which aides in nutrient export) You should be removing and cleaning or replacing your mechanical filtration every 3 days.

What do you use for mechanical filtration? I just use filter floss. ( I throw it out every 3 days and replace it)

 

[Jenny_rs]

Ok.. so that was like a 20-30% once a month.

I know you are a busy person like me... Assuming your nitrates are really around 40ppm. Major water changes are needed. Like 2 gallons every other day until the nitrates get down to about 5ppm. That's a lot of work.
I wouldn't do large water changes at this point because it's not like you dumped drano in there. And, large water changes aren't the best either.

Here is what I would do:
-Before doing any water change, perform the nitrate test and record it.
-Religiously 1x per week do a 3gallon water change.
-Cut in half the amount you feed

Since you don't have a skimmer (which aides in nutrient export) You should be removing and cleaning or replacing your mechanical filtration every 3 days.

What do you use for mechanical filtration? I just use filter floss. ( I throw it out every 3 days and replace it)

Okay got it. I have one of those black sponges that I rinse out every one to two days because I know they can hold a lot of garbage.

 

[BrianAnthony]

Okay got it. I have one of those black sponges that I rinse out every one to two days because I know they can hold a lot of garbage.

Ok.. I'm guessing you rinse it out in tap water... Best is in rodi water or make up a gallon of water with that Api stuff I took a pic of. Or, you can buy filter floss and just trash it every 3 days. (It's the stuff that looks like seat cushion material.. you just ball it up and put it where your sponge went.).

If you had a skimmer, I'd recommend NOPOX. This would get your nitrates down faster than water changes alone. You could still try it. You might need to clean sponge every day. Idk.

It will be important for you to monitor your nitrates regularly. For soft coral (like my tank.. zoas, pallys etc) 5ppm - 10ppm is the target. That's where they do best. SPS coral don't like the higher stuff like softies.

As far as your phosphates... I wouldnt be too concerned... You should know where they are at, but I saw you had chemipure. I run the elite version in mine as carbon & phosphate control. My phosphate is always at .25ppm. Prolly because my stupid API test kit isn't that sensitive. A phosphate test kit should be on your to do list.

So, take care of those chloramines and do those water changes and keep an eye on your nitrates. You should see the nitrates go down every week. If not, you prolly fed too much.

Let's address your alkalinity... Don't do anything.
By doing those water changes for nitrates, you will be raising alk. The Kent Salt that you have has 8.5dkh in the mix. I'd like to schedule a follow up appt. In three weeks. I'd like to see where you are at with the chloramines, nitrates and dkh values. . Don't go messing with lights or other things.. just what we discussed. So, post back on this thread in 3 weeks or if you have questions.

 

[Bribo12]

Water changes with a proper salt mix will definitely help bring alk up. I’d get it to 7 before any other corals. Definitely look into a phosphate kit (Hanna is the best, then maybe salifert) I still feel like with low alk softies shouldn’t be dying so fast. My alks dropped low like that in the past and stuff gets mad but never so inhospitable things can’t survive. I still feel like it may be 0 phosphates and extremely high nitrates.