Wrasse got ich

Richie49

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My wrasse got ich on its second day here, what can I do?
 

melypr1985

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The solorensis right? Can you get a closer picture of him? I still do not think it's ich
 

Humblefish

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The solorensis right? Can you get a closer picture of him? I still do not think it's ich

^^Agree. The photo in the other thread is inconclusive. If a closer pic cannot be obtained, a detailed description of what the OP is seeing on the fish would be the next best thing.
 
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Richie49

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On one side his skin is fleshy white

1460678625612.jpg
 

Reefahholic

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Wrasses come in with gill Flukes a lot. The picture looks more like Uronema or Brook than ICH. I can't see it that well though. Can you describe the symptoms better.
 

melypr1985

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That doesn't look like uronema. More like brook or velvet. Either way he needs to come out and into QT. I'd advise you to take all the fish out and get them into a QT. I'd still like a better picture. These are too far away and not in focus. The first picture, from the wrasse ID thread, looked like he has a cloudy eye as well. We need you to describe what your seeing on the fish if you can't get a better picture. As much detail as possible.
 
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Richie49

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I can't take a better pic because he is too shy and will hide away. Also one side is looking like a little patch of his skin is rotting a way. Also all of the white spots from ich went away. I got him From Petco and I was thinking maybe he got sick because there was also a sick fish in there. He still eats pretty good though.
 

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I can't take a better pic because he is too shy and will hide away. Also one side is looking like a little patch of his skin is rotting a way. Also all of the white spots from ich went away. I got him From Petco and I was thinking maybe he got sick because there was also a sick fish in there. He still eats pretty good though.
If there's 1 sick fish, 99.9% of the time they're all sick :(
Great advice on what do above. Good luck!
 
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Richie49

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But it's weird how the rest of my fish don't get sick
 

melypr1985

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The rest of your fish have probably built up a better immune system then this new wrasse that has gone through the shock and unfortune of living at petco for a while, then being moved to a new tank. His immune system is the weakest so he's the first effected. The other fish will be sick soon enough if it's velvet, and they will all start dying quickly. Now, if the wrasse is still alive without treatment in another couple days then I'm going with Brook instead of velvet.
 

melypr1985

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These are the treatment options for each disease I've mentioned. Please read them and the symptoms of each so you can look at your fish and make a decision on which one it probably is. Since you can see your fish better than we can and can see their behavior, your the best to decide at this point.
Brooklynella:

Symptoms – This is most often seen in clownfish, but it can afflict any fish. The fish’s skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off, oftentimes causing excessive white mucous to form around the affected area(s).

Treatment options - Formalin bath, followed by additional formalin baths (as needed - but give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths). You can use formalin in a QT (at a much lower concentration than the bath), but great care must be taken to provide plenty of gas exchange as formalin will quickly deplete the water of oxygen. For this reason, doing baths is the safer option as the fish can be pulled from the formalin if showing signs of distress. Formalin-MS is preferred, as that contains 37% formaldehyde. However, in a bind, any medication containing formalin (ex. Quick Cure) is better than nothing. Alternative treatments for brook include metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex) and acriflavine (ex. Acriflavine-MS). A freshwater dip may provide temporary relief if you are unable to locate any of the aforementioned medications right away.

Velvet (Amyloodinium):

Symptoms - Because velvet can be such a fast killer, key behavioral symptoms will often prelude visible ones. A fish with velvet may breathe heavy, seek relief by swimming into the flow of a powerhead and act reclusive (velvet makes them sensitive to light).

If visible symptoms do manifest; velvet appears the same as ich, except the fish will usually be covered in “dust.” This dust may look gold colored if viewed at the right angle and under the right spectrum of light. Velvet is often misdiagnosed as ich and is the main “tank killer” in our hobby. It can wipe out all your fish in less than 72 hours and cannot usually be “managed” as ich sometimes is.

Treatment options - Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for velvet, but copper also works if symptoms are caught early on. Tank transfer and hypo does notwork with velvet. A freshwater dip or formalin bath is recommended before treatment begins, due to the severity of this disease; however these would only provide temporary relief and will not eradicate velvet.
 
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Richie49

Richie49

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Yea because all my fish have gone through a lot, and it'll be hard to pull the wrasse out since it is very fast
 

Reefahholic

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I'm going with Brook or Uronema on top of ICH.

Velvet seems to look a lot like ICH, but what he described doesn't sound like velvet. With that one sore spot and the faded color you definetely need to catch that fish.
 
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Richie49

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But how can I get him, he's too fast and I don't want to ruin the landscape of the rocks
 

melypr1985

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But how can I get him, he's too fast and I don't want to ruin the landscape of the rocks

You can try a bottle trap (google that), or try getting him right after lights out. But odds are, you'll have to take rocks out, drain some of the water and get him and the rest that way. Sorry, i know it sucks as I've had to do it myself.
 

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