Hi thereSo do you recommend taking the 2nd membrane out and leaving the canister empty? or take the canister out completely?
Yes. What would you advice me to do?
We always used to say its either lighting or water. Always one of the other because that's what the coral is in and being exposed to. The points you listed as the go-to culprits "electricity" "metal" all also fit under "it's the water". They are in the water. Heavy metals and stray voltage are actually the most common coral killers. RO/DI problems usually end with various algae issues at worst. Just treating your RO/DI water with Seachem Prime will negate any chance of chlorine or chloramines geting into the tank and running carbon/phosguard/gfo will take care of the rest in addition to keeping your RO/DI putting out 0 TDS water. But even 0 TDS water is not 100% necessary for a reef tank. I've used Glacier machine water at 30 TDS without any problem for a long time. If you use a chaeto fuge, or an ATS, it will be even less of an issue. Doing regular partial water changes or occasionally running a poly filter also helps avoid the build-up of any nasties and this is where the Triton method fails over time. The best part of the Triton method, ICP testing give us less reason to have head scratching problems anymore and it does appear that many of the head scratchers people have been posting about have been related to heavy metal poisoning in one form or another.
Is there a cheaper system the one you suggested is 2400 dollars. I have the 6 stage 150 gallon BRS right now?
They also make another, cheaper option now besides the UHE that still boasts 1:1 waste: product ratioIs there a cheaper system the one you suggested is 2400 dollars. I have the 6 stage 150 gallon BRS right now?
They also make another, cheaper option now besides the UHE that still boasts 1:1 waste: product ratio