Zoas dying

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Glenng78

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Here’s what I’m working with now
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gentlefish

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Picture 7 has this stringy brown stuff. Looks like Dino. If Dino you would expect nitrates/phosphate low or 0. You would blow it off, and it would be back after 24 hours.
cyano thrive in higher nutrient situations and you blow a. At pet of them off, takes a couple of days to reappear. I’ll attach a bit of cyanobacter in my tank 6C99F738-C839-4DA9-B297-0E33067EE347.jpeg
 
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Glenng78

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Yes that’s exactly what it is. Brown stringy and reappears after I clean it. So what do I do for Dinos? I’ve been doing water changes like crazy and manual removal
 
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By the way - I dosed chemiclean about 15 minutes before your reply
 

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Nothing wrong with trying chemiclean. Leave the skimmer on with cup removed and it will push back your cyanos in 3 days. They want a water change of 1/3 on day +48 hours if I remember the timing correctly.
Dino’s is a long battle for control. There is a mile long threat to it in case you can’t fall asleep. I had a lot of success with carbon to absorb any potential toxins, UV, and dosing phosphate and nitrate. Control that is, no eradication. I don’t think eradication is possible.
 

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Definitely looks like Dinos. I have been battling them for about a month now.

I suggest test phosphates and nitrates daily. Dose nitrate and phosphate right away if very low. Turn of lights for 3 days to slow them down. Get Dino X and use as directed. Stop doing water changes. Don't feed coral until they are long gone.
 
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Glenng78

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What are good products for dosing nitrate and phosphate ? And what are my desired levels ?
 

gentlefish

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Chemiclean is erythromycin. Does not work on Dino’s. sadly. Very sadly…
I bought phosphate pill over the counter from the pharmacy and sodium nitrate on eBay. Brightwell has a ready to go product, but I did not use it as I could not get it.
 
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Ok got rid of my Dino’s and I think I found the issue. I finally got my Hanna low range nitrate , and did my first test. 0.00. I know this sound impossible, but it is accurate. I dosed 40 ml of ME nitrate , and then tested again. 1.33
How did I get to 0.00 nitrate in my tank ?
 

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Dont add chemicals at this point. Take a turkey baster and blow tank surfaces and do a siphoning. Thereafter - do this which will address cyano and dino:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
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Glenng78

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Dont add chemicals at this point. Take a turkey baster and blow tank surfaces and do a siphoning. Thereafter - do this which will address cyano and dino:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
Sorry I forgot to say I already did a no lights and and dosing Dino-X period , so the Dino problem is all but licked at this point. I can tell my zoas are trying to come back too
 

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Sorry I forgot to say I already did a no lights and and dosing Dino-X period , so the Dino problem is all but licked at this point. I can tell my zoas are trying to come back too
gently blow them with a turkey baster. Adding IodiDe also helps, not iodine.
 

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