2XMP40wES placement and mode of operation?

[returnofsid]

I finally got the second MP40wES, the other day and am looking for advice on placement and recommended mode of operation.

My tank is a 200DD, 48" wide X 36" front to back X 27" tall. The tank is predominately SPS/Clams with some Zoanthids, Acans and Chalices on the bottom. The tank just underwent a huge remodel so right now, it's mostly SPS with a single clam. Much more SPS and more clams will be added and there's a possibility that I'll add a little more rock, towards the back.

Other flow includes 2XKorallia 4s that I'd like completely remove, unless it's recommended I leave them, AND my return pump is a Mag 18, plumbed through 2X3/4 SeaSwirls that are unplugged so they do not rotate. (I need to have both rebuilt as they leak out the box when rotating)

I've had a single MP40wES, operating in Nutrient Export Mode, the highest speed, for approximately 3 months. It was located about 10" from the top, centered on the left glass pane. The other day, I moved it close to the back overflow and about 8" from the top. The new MP40wES is located at approximately the same location, on the right glass pane. Obviously, I'll move their locations if it's recommended. I relocated both MP40s because the clam was getting too much flow, in it's location. I can move the clam's location, if needed, though it won't be a simple move because it's attached to a huge rock. I haven't set a specific mode for the second MP40wES yet and have it currently running full throttle...lol.

I'd like to get recommendations on placement and operation modes. I have no idea how to Sync or Anti Sync them, but am willing to learn! Any and all help, suggestions or recommendations are appreciated!


Last time I requested recommendations, photos were requested, so here they are. Even though the photos may look like it, the tank is not bare bottom. The flow, from my return pump, pushes the sand away from the front of the tank. Eventually, I'm going to re-plumb my return, to avoid this situation.

Front View

View from Left Side

Thanks all!!

 

[Troylee]

I would center one on each end and run reef crest mode... Worked like a charm on my 180gal...

 

[ckozma]

I would run them in anti sync and both on nutrient transport mode (NTM).

 

[returnofsid]

I would center one on each end and run reef crest mode... Worked like a charm on my 180gal...

My main concerns with centering them are:

flow from the left will be partially blocked by rock and a large SPS colony.
centered, the clam mantle looked like a flag on a windy day...lol. I can move the clam but it would require cutting it's foot. I've done this before but it always makes me nervous.

Any particular reason you suggest Reef Crest Mode? I've recently read that Nutrient Transport Mode is supposed to be a lot more "effective," but I'm open to making changes...lol

I would run them in anti sync and both on nutrient transport mode (NTM).

I've been reading a lot of good things about NTM lately. I really need to figure out how to sync/anti sync. I printed out the 40 pages of directions, from Ecotech's site. Guess it's time to do some reading...lol

 

[returnofsid]

Then there's also the fact that, centered, the left hand one is really 'VISIBLE.' The left hand glass pane is viewed as much as the front pane. However, I did have the left hand one centered, until yesterday, for several months.

 

[TD2K]

tagging along. I just got my 2 MP40s installed in my tank as well. It's a new tank (no livestock yet) so for now I just have them on normal (constant) mode, each going at about 75%.

I haven't tried to link them together yet either. That'll be a weekend project.

 

[TD2K]

Also, is there a reason the cord has to be at 12 o'clock? I'd much prefer it at 6 o'clock. Any issues? I know I've seen them this way before.

 

[returnofsid]

Also, is there a reason the cord has to be at 12 o'clock? I'd much prefer it at 6 o'clock. Any issues? I know I've seen them this way before.

Yes. The cord needs to be secured with the stick on square and zip tie, above the motor, to protect the motor from falling if the wet side were to detach. The dry side can be damaged if it falls to the floor and that kind of damage isn't covered by the warranty. The included directions make this very clear...lol. Mine, right now, are not sticky secured, but will be once I determine a final position. The left side was secured, until yesterday. The sticky stuff comes off the glass easily, with a razor blade.

 

[ritter6788]

I'd leave the Koralias in. I added two mp10s to my 75 gallon on the back wall so they blow back to front. The koralia 4s are on the ends and blowing long ways across. It's about as random and turbulent as you can get in a 75. It really breaks up the laminar flow. I run my mp10s on Short Pulse mode, full blast and adjust the pulse to get the best wave. I ran reef crest and all that stuff but short pulse looks most like flow in the ocean to me and gets the most movement.

Here's the video for setting up the master/slave.

[url]http://ecotechmarine.com/media-gallery/video/setting-up-a-masterslave-relationship-2-pump-configuration/


[/URL]

 

[returnofsid]

I'd leave the Koralias in. I added two mp10s to my 75 gallon on the back wall so they blow back to front. The koralia 4s are on the ends and blowing long ways across. It's about as random and turbulent as you can get in a 75. It really breaks up the laminar flow. I run my mp10s on Short Pulse mode, full blast and adjust the pulse to get the best wave. I ran reef crest and all that stuff but short pulse looks most like flow in the ocean to me and gets the most movement.

Here's the video for setting up the master/slave.

Setting Up a Master/Slave Relationship (2 Pump Configuration) | EcoTech Marine

In your circumstances, your Korallias were your main source of flow since MP10s aren't near enough for a 75, so I wouldn't have even thought about removing them. I'm considering moving the Korallias to the back wall and low, about a foot off of the sand bed, aimed up and towards the center, at about a 45 degree angle. That way, they aren't visible but are creating random flow behind the rock work. Currently, the rock work is about 10" from the back glass.

Watching the video now!

 

[TD2K]

Yes. The cord needs to be secured with the stick on square and zip tie, above the motor, to protect the motor from falling if the wet side were to detach. The dry side can be damaged if it falls to the floor and that kind of damage isn't covered by the warranty. The included directions make this very clear...lol. Mine, right now, are not sticky secured, but will be once I determine a final position. The left side was secured, until yesterday. The sticky stuff comes off the glass easily, with a razor blade.

that's my issue, I don't know if the placement is correct yet until I start stocking the tank so I didn't want to use the stickies quite yet. I have clamps holding the cord onto the stand, so if it were to come loose, it would just swing below the tank until I fix it.

 

[ritter6788]

Watching the video now!

You're gonna love it when you get them connected. :)

Honestly there are so many different things you'll be able to do with those pumps you'll have to experiment and find out what you and the livestock like the best. I still change mine from sync to anti sync sometimes just because I can. :D

 

[Mike S]

that's my issue, I don't know if the placement is correct yet until I start stocking the tank so I didn't want to use the stickies quite yet. I have clamps holding the cord onto the stand, so if it were to come loose, it would just swing below the tank until I fix it.

You can get a bag of those sticky pads in the electric section of Lowes for a few bucks. They are normally in with the zip ties.

 

[Poseidon]

With a tank that size, I would try both on the back wall as well. In my tank 36x24x22, I was going to try 2 MP10's on the back glass, but my back glass is 1/2" so that won't work, so I have an MP40 on the right side.

If you put the 2 on the back glass in Anti-Sync, it would be excellent random flow. ;)

 

[TD2K]

You can get a bag of those sticky pads in the electric section of Lowes for a few bucks. They are normally in with the zip ties.

I actually have several left over from when we did our DIY LED lights on the 55 gal tank.

 

[returnofsid]

From what I've read, Reef Crest mode actually runs at less than 50% during about half of the cycle, while Nutrient Transport Mode runs at a higher speed, for a larger portion of the cycle. Can anyone comment on this?

 

[returnofsid]

I've got them connected with one another, currently running Anti-Sync, on Nutrient Transport Mode@100%. Now that I have two and have them connected, wirelessly, I'm going to have fun fiddling with them!