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00W's AIO Smorgasbord

Aquarium Profile and Equipment

What type of saltwater aquarium is this?
Mixed Reef
Total Water Volume
115
When did you start this tank?
Jun 16, 2015
What is your aquarium made of?
Glass
Aquarium Length (inches)
48
Aquarium Width (inches)
18
Aquarium Height (inches)
24
Aquarium Overflow/Drain
Drain Style (durso, herbie, etc)
Aquarium Sump
YES
Sump Water Volume
20
Aquarium Stand
Wood
Aquarium Controller
NO
Protein Skimmer
NO
Protein Skimmer Make and Model
Lifereef vs3-24
Aquarium Reactors
  1. None
Return Pump
Eheim compaction 3000
What types of equipment are you using for water flow and circulation?
  1. Powerhead
  2. Wavemaker
Water Flow and Circulation Equipment List
Jebao OW 20 x2, OW10, Jebao 1300, 2 sicce small WaveMaker.
Aquarium Lighting
  1. T5 Fluorescent
  2. Natural Sunlight
Lighting Equipment List
Odyssea T5 HO fixture
Lighting PAR and Goals
Low
Dosing Equipment Detail
None
Auto Top Off or ATO
NO
Aquarium Heating and Cooling
  1. I am using a heater or heaters
Water Temperature
77
Heating and Cooling Equipment Detail
Eheim 300w with ink bird controller

Aquarium Water Chemistry and Parameters

pH Level
8.3
Specific Gravity
1.027
Nitrate or NO3
19
Phosphate or PO4
1.12
Calcium
440
Alkalinity
7
Magnesium
1300
Salt Brand
Red sea blue bucket
Trace Element Dosing
Kent essential elements

Aquarium Natural and Mechanical Filtration

Substrate
Bare Bottom (BB)
Substrate Level
No Substrate
Live Rock
75
Live Rock Type
Unknown
Nutrient Export
  1. Protein Skimmer
  2. Filter Sock
Water Changes
YES
Water Change Details
10% every Monday

Aquarium Tank Inhabitants (fish, coral, invert etc.)

Fish List
  1. Angelfish
  2. Clownfish
  3. Surgeonfish Tang
  4. Other Predatory
Total Fish
4
Coral List
  1. Zoanthids
  2. Soft Coral
  3. Mushroom Coral
  4. Other
Total Corals
6
Invert List
  1. Anemone
  2. Snails
  3. None
Total Inverts
0
Livestock Detail
Have a trigger which is not listed.
Livestock Quarantine
  1. No Quarantine

Aquarium Nutrition (fish, coral, invert etc. feeding)

Fish Feeding Frequency
Multiple Daily Feedings
Coral Feeding Frequency
Do Not Feed Coral Directly
Fish and Coral Feeding
  1. Flake
  2. Pellet
  3. Frozen
  4. Algae Strips
  5. Other
Auto Feeder
NO

Additional Aquarium Information

What do you think are the keys to your success in reefing?
Patience
Not looking too good. The zoas may be okay, not sure about the acans. He shipped me a freebie. I just got some really good photos of them, let me know if yall think they have the chance to be saved.

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I'd find a nice quiet spot with low flow and mid to low light. I wouldn't be surprised if they all lived. Can't say for sure though buddy, I hate this for you.
 
Not looking too good. The zoas may be okay, not sure about the acans. He shipped me a freebie. I just got some really good photos of them, let me know if yall think they have the chance to be saved.

20250220_180230.jpg

20250220_180151.jpg

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I think the 3 of them can return from where they are right now but the Acan don't look good at all, the Zoa doesn't look good either but the way they look is enough for them to return.
 
I'd find a nice quiet spot with low flow and mid to low light. I wouldn't be surprised if they all lived. Can't say for sure though buddy, I hate this for you.
I think the 3 of them can return from where they are right now but the Acan don't look good at all, the Zoa doesn't look good either but the way they look is enough for them to return.
Thanks guys. I'll hope for the best and do what I can. The vendor says if any of them don't make it, I have up to a week to tell him and he'll send replacements.

It's a bummer, because they look like they would be stunning if they were healthy.
 
Thanks guys. I'll hope for the best and do what I can. The vendor says if any of them don't make it, I have up to a week to tell him and he'll send replacements.

It's a bummer, because they look like they would be stunning if they were healthy.
Great action by the seller to give you a week Walker, you will see that they will come back and even if you don't see any improvement, don't get rid of them until the end, the Acan that I have was very similar to those and it came back but it took much longer than a week.
 
TDS need to be 0
and depending on the use, but it is advisable to change the filters at least once a year, I do it every 6 months, whether they are dirty or not, just as a precaution.
Here are the TDS readings. First is from the tap and second is the RO water.
 

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Thanks guys. I'll hope for the best and do what I can. The vendor says if any of them don't make it, I have up to a week to tell him and he'll send replacements.

It's a bummer, because they look like they would be stunning if they were healthy.
I was thinking that too, based off what I see, the acans are going to be stunners!
 
Here are the TDS readings. First is from the tap and second is the RO water.
Great, Discarded RO water for the creation of gha in your tank
Edit: assuming the equipment reading is correct
 
Here are the TDS readings. First is from the tap and second is the RO water.
wow is that a good tap water reading. Here is my typical tap water reading:

TDS-IN.jpg


Your made water TDS of Zero says that your RODI is probably not your problem.

Once you get GHA in your tank, which can easily happen with a frag plug, it is very hard to remove as it will outcompete most organisms for the available nutrients. Your Phosphate is probably a bit higher than your readings because the GHA acts as a sink. Lowering the Phosphate may help but again, the GHA will outcompete your corals for the Phosphates so if you lower the Phosphates enough to kill the GHA you will also kill the coral. You want to keep your Phosphates low to hinder the GHA but watch your corals for stress and stunted growth.

Algaecides like AlgaeFix can work but you will likely suffer some collateral damage, mainly snails.

One thing that kind of works usually is to manually pluck the GHA in the display while growing macro algae in a refugium. You can get the GHA to grow in the fuge instead of the display where it is easier to remove and if you use a fast growing macro like Chaeto. It competes pretty well against GHA and if you are harvesting the GHA and encouraging the Chaeto you can eventually defeat it.
 
wow is that a good tap water reading. Here is my typical tap water reading:

TDS-IN.jpg


Your made water TDS of Zero says that your RODI is probably not your problem.

Once you get GHA in your tank, which can easily happen with a frag plug, it is very hard to remove as it will outcompete most organisms for the available nutrients. Your Phosphate is probably a bit higher than your readings because the GHA acts as a sink. Lowering the Phosphate may help but again, the GHA will outcompete your corals for the Phosphates so if you lower the Phosphates enough to kill the GHA you will also kill the coral. You want to keep your Phosphates low to hinder the GHA but watch your corals for stress and stunted growth.

Algaecides like AlgaeFix can work but you will likely suffer some collateral damage, mainly snails.

One thing that kind of works usually is to manually pluck the GHA in the display while growing macro algae in a refugium. You can get the GHA to grow in the fuge instead of the display where it is easier to remove and if you use a fast growing macro like Chaeto. It competes pretty well against GHA and if you are harvesting the GHA and encouraging the Chaeto you can eventually defeat it.
Thank you for this, great writing
 
wow is that a good tap water reading. Here is my typical tap water reading:

TDS-IN.jpg


Your made water TDS of Zero says that your RODI is probably not your problem.

Once you get GHA in your tank, which can easily happen with a frag plug, it is very hard to remove as it will outcompete most organisms for the available nutrients. Your Phosphate is probably a bit higher than your readings because the GHA acts as a sink. Lowering the Phosphate may help but again, the GHA will outcompete your corals for the Phosphates so if you lower the Phosphates enough to kill the GHA you will also kill the coral. You want to keep your Phosphates low to hinder the GHA but watch your corals for stress and stunted growth.

Algaecides like AlgaeFix can work but you will likely suffer some collateral damage, mainly snails.

One thing that kind of works usually is to manually pluck the GHA in the display while growing macro algae in a refugium. You can get the GHA to grow in the fuge instead of the display where it is easier to remove and if you use a fast growing macro like Chaeto. It competes pretty well against GHA and if you are harvesting the GHA and encouraging the Chaeto you can eventually defeat it.
Yikes!
That's a crazy reading!
Mine is 8 from the tap.
I'd use tap but I don't trust the city and they use tons of chlorine and the chloramines are high too.
Great explanation by the way!
Very well said!
 
wow is that a good tap water reading. Here is my typical tap water reading:

TDS-IN.jpg


Your made water TDS of Zero says that your RODI is probably not your problem.

Once you get GHA in your tank, which can easily happen with a frag plug, it is very hard to remove as it will outcompete most organisms for the available nutrients. Your Phosphate is probably a bit higher than your readings because the GHA acts as a sink. Lowering the Phosphate may help but again, the GHA will outcompete your corals for the Phosphates so if you lower the Phosphates enough to kill the GHA you will also kill the coral. You want to keep your Phosphates low to hinder the GHA but watch your corals for stress and stunted growth.

Algaecides like AlgaeFix can work but you will likely suffer some collateral damage, mainly snails.

One thing that kind of works usually is to manually pluck the GHA in the display while growing macro algae in a refugium. You can get the GHA to grow in the fuge instead of the display where it is easier to remove and if you use a fast growing macro like Chaeto. It competes pretty well against GHA and if you are harvesting the GHA and encouraging the Chaeto you can eventually defeat it.
I have added phosoguard to the sump and feel like I'm constantly removing it manually lol. I think come payday I will order more clean up crew members and some chaeto. I don't want to add anything like algea fix because I don't want to lose my snails.
 
I have added phosoguard to the sump and feel like I'm constantly removing it manually lol. I think come payday I will order more clean up crew members and some chaeto. I don't want to add anything like algea fix because I don't want to lose my snails.
Good plan Amanda!
Good plan!
 
This is what I'm thinking of adding if they are still in stock next week. Do you think they will help? Is there anything on the list you don't think will help?
 

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Yikes!
That's a crazy reading!
Mine is 8 from the tap.
I'd use tap but I don't trust the city and they use tons of chlorine and the chloramines are high too.
Great explanation by the way!
Very well said!
Thanks.

I don't trust most tap water as even at 8 TDS it is hard to say what that 8 is. Chlorines and Chloramines really exasperate the issue. Luckily, my tap doesn't contain chloramines, yet, so I don't need to double carbon filter but the TDS out of my membrane to the DI resins is usually in the 20-35 TDS range. Pretty hard on the DI stage.
 
Algae Scrubbers are great. If I had a sump I'd have one.
Santa monica has some models that fit in AIO'S!! I forget which models they were, maybe the HOG model. Vintagereefer can drop the info about the specs on these. He has a lot of knowledge of the company's products.
 
This is what I'm thinking of adding if they are still in stock next week. Do you think they will help? Is there anything on the list you don't think will help?
This is a great selection IMHO. I really like Pithos and Trochus and you have a nice selection of species there.
 
wow is that a good tap water reading. Here is my typical tap water reading:

TDS-IN.jpg


Your made water TDS of Zero says that your RODI is probably not your problem.

Once you get GHA in your tank, which can easily happen with a frag plug, it is very hard to remove as it will outcompete most organisms for the available nutrients. Your Phosphate is probably a bit higher than your readings because the GHA acts as a sink. Lowering the Phosphate may help but again, the GHA will outcompete your corals for the Phosphates so if you lower the Phosphates enough to kill the GHA you will also kill the coral. You want to keep your Phosphates low to hinder the GHA but watch your corals for stress and stunted growth.

Algaecides like AlgaeFix can work but you will likely suffer some collateral damage, mainly snails.

One thing that kind of works usually is to manually pluck the GHA in the display while growing macro algae in a refugium. You can get the GHA to grow in the fuge instead of the display where it is easier to remove and if you use a fast growing macro like Chaeto. It competes pretty well against GHA and if you are harvesting the GHA and encouraging the Chaeto you can eventually defeat it.
Thanks! Very well written.
 

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