10000L Coral reef at The Maritime Museum & Aquarium Sweden

Belgian Anthias

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Great article! Thanks. I will have a look.

I've got some ideas about airlifts, not so much to get the water motion in the whole tank, but to get some of the water near the bottom up close to the surface outlets/overflow. A friend of mine has done this in a small tank with good result.

And airlifts are could also be a way to keep the water in motion during power breaks(on UPS).

/ David

Air lifts are a lot more effective in a deep tank. We are planning a mixed reef tank of 180 cm deep ( water level 170cm) With gravity fed airlift circulation. And the use of air driven modified geyser pumps as wave makers is in study.
 
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Sallstrom

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Air lifts are a lot more effective in a deep tank. We are planning a mixed reef tank of 180 cm deep ( water level 170cm) With gravity fed airlift circulation. And the use of air driven modified geyser pumps as wave makers is in study.
Cool! I think I've seen a geyser pumps/wave maker in a public aquarium in Stockholm.

That is alomst the same depth as this tank in this thread. I think our tank is 175-180 cm. May I ask what kind of lights you are planning to have? :)

We have tried airlift in our "shark tank", about 2m deep. Sure it moves a lot of water but it also adds a lot of air bubbles. How do you plan to get rid of all the bubbles?
 
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Sallstrom

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Last check before I go on what we call in Sweden "after work"(go to a pub and have a beer after work). Second one is the evening lights only.
Have a great weekend! :)
IMG_5315.JPG
IMG_5317.JPG
 
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Sallstrom

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Oh man ... hope was short lived (about visiting Gothenburg) when my daughter mentioned that it's far from her best friend's Malmo home ... sad life :(

Enjoy the weekend David!!!

Ah, yes it is about 3 hours from Malmö. But then you have Malmö Museer aquarium, and Aquaria Vattenmuseum in Stockholm to visit. And Skansen Akvariet if you like monkeys and reptiles :)
We don't have those really large public aquariums like the US here in Sweden, but we do have at least 9 small ones. I can't say if they are good or bad, at least not here, because I know most of the staff :D So I recommend them all instead!
Hope you'll have a great trip!

/ David
 

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Hey David ... it would've been a really nice treat to check out your aquarium but alas ... :( . Guess if I mentioned your name ... I'll get a "backstage" tour? :D . Don't worry about US aquariums cuz in Toronto, Canada we have the Ripley's Aquarium ... :p

Anyways I'm heading out of my workplace and have yourself a great weekend ... again!
 
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Hey David ... it would've been a really nice treat to check out your aquarium but alas ... :( . Guess if I mentioned your name ... I'll get a "backstage" tour? :D . Don't worry about US aquariums cuz in Toronto, Canada we have the Ripley's Aquarium ... :p

Anyways I'm heading out of my workplace and have yourself a great weekend ... again!
Haha, sure. Give it a try :) I'm not famous, but we do have good contacts between the public aquariums in Sweden. And many of the corals in Malmö museer aquarium are from us!
Have a great weekend you too!

: David
 
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Belgian Anthias

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Cool! I think I've seen a geyser pumps/wave maker in a public aquarium in Stockholm.

That is alomst the same depth as this tank in this thread. I think our tank is 175-180 cm. May I ask what kind of lights you are planning to have? :)

We have tried airlift in our "shark tank", about 2m deep. Sure it moves a lot of water but it also adds a lot of air bubbles. How do you plan to get rid of all the bubbles?

Planned tank is 300cm x 200cm x 180 cm; display windows 160 cm short side 2x 120cm long side. No live rock,
A filter pad on the waterline separates water and air . The air explodes in the pad also preventing the water to splash around leaving salt everywhere. Tests where made at 80 cm but 180cm needs a lot more pressure and I do not have a swimming pool to test this.

We plan to use LED. High mast flood lights 90°/ 60°and 90°/ 30°, using Nichia power led's, PCB custom made. Simulating a depth of 5m at 0.5m which is 10m at the bottom.( all lights on +- 40000lumen/m²)
Try to get some red in the first 50 cm and no red below 100cm but do not know how, yet.
 
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Planned tank is 300cm x 200cm x 180 cm; display windows 160 cm short side 2x 120cm long side. No live rock,
A filter pad on the waterline separates water and air . The air explodes in the pad also preventing the water to splash around leaving salt everywhere. Tests where made at 80 cm but 180cm needs a lot more pressure and I do not have a swimming pool to test this.

We plan to use LED. High mast flood lights 90°/ 60°and 90°/ 30°, using Nichia power led's, PCB custom made. Simulating a depth of 5m at 0.5m which is 10m at the bottom.( all lights on +- 40000lumen/m²)
Try to get some red in the first 50 cm and no red below 100cm but do not know how, yet.

Would be great if you started a build thread here so we can follow the development of this tank! :)

For our new large tanks I will still vote for large stream pumps to move most of the water and give the effect of waves. But maybe with some help from airlifts to simulate "storm" and to get detritus from the bottom water up to the overflow.

One thing that me and my coworkers try to stick to is to keep it simple. We don't want to build our large aquariums strickly designed after one "method". After our 10 years working at the museum we know how methods comes and goes, and how many times we have redesigned the life support systems :) Same goes with flow in the tanks. We don't know if our first idea will work until the tanks are filled with water(2020 or 2021). And if it's not flow enough we want to have the possibility to put in more pumps, therefor we need space (not visible from the windows) to add more pumps. Or maybe more airlifts :)

Sounds interesting with the LEDs. Are you working together with a company to develop a spectra designed for reef tanks?

/ David
 

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For our new large tanks I will still vote for large stream pumps to move most of the water and give the effect of waves. But maybe with some help from airlifts to simulate "storm" and to get detritus from the bottom water up to the overflow.

One thing that me and my coworkers try to stick to is to keep it simple. We don't want to build our large aquariums strickly designed after one "method". After our 10 years working at the museum we know how methods comes and goes, and how many times we have redesigned the life support systems :) Same goes with flow in the tanks. We don't know if our first idea will work until the tanks are filled with water(2020 or 2021). And if it's not flow enough we want to have the possibility to put in more pumps, therefor we need space (not visible from the windows) to add more pumps. Or maybe more airlifts :)

Sounds interesting with the LEDs. Are you working together with a company to develop a spectra designed for reef tanks?

/ David

We try to simulate a depth between 3 and 10m and try to avoid jet streams from streaming pumps. We also think about moving water by difference of air pressure, to become the smooth wave effect. And when it does not work satisfactory we can always fall back on pumps.

As the rock work ( reef) will be hand made we will be able to make it on an open base this way gaining about 1/3 swimming and hiding place. As the rock base is hollow and open we can install all equipment out of view. The tank is build with glass panes in a steel frame, the bottom in 3 layers polyester on a concrete base. One can monitor everything from the non display side.

The provider of the flood lights is willing to install led's at order but not with different channels. We want different channels to be able easily adjusting spectrum and intensity during the day.
 
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We try to simulate a depth between 3 and 10m and try to avoid jet streams from streaming pumps. We also think about moving water by difference of air pressure, to become the smooth wave effect. And when it does not work satisfactory we can always fall back on pumps.

As the rock work ( reef) will be hand made we will be able to make it on an open base this way gaining about 1/3 swimming and hiding place. As the rock base is hollow and open we can install all equipment out of view. The tank is build with glass panes in a steel frame, the bottom in 3 layers polyester on a concrete base. One can monitor everything from the non display side.

The provider of the flood lights is willing to install led's at order but not with different channels. We want different channels to be able easily adjusting spectrum and intensity during the day.

I sent a PM with some detail questions, hope thats okey :)

When are you starting to build this tank? Is it for a public aquarium or private?

/ David
 

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Belgian Anthias

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I did have a link to the presentation of the result but it does not work any more; But I must have a pdf copy of it in our database. The presentation shows foto's and gives the research results.. I look it up tomorrow.
 
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Today we got past the last step to get the final permit to build a whole new aquarium building. Yeeeesss! We're building a new aquarium, with a large coral tank :D

Just needed to get that out of the system. :)

/ David
 

Creating a strong bulwark: Did you consider floor support for your reef tank?

  • I put a major focus on floor support.

    Votes: 54 40.3%
  • I put minimal focus on floor support.

    Votes: 28 20.9%
  • I put no focus on floor support.

    Votes: 48 35.8%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 3.0%
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