125 Gallon DIY Sump design

[Reefs and Geeks]

I'm looking for suggestions on how to baffle my new sump build.

I am getting ready to upgrade from a 20 gallon "wet/dry" sump in my tank stand to a 125 gallon basement sump for my 150 gallon display on the first floor, and will be adding a basement frag tank to the system as well. Will likely add additional frag tanks to the system in the future as space fills up.

Things I want for my sump:
internal skimmer (BM Curve 7)
Jebao DCP-18,000 return pump for display
Possibly Mag 9.5 for frag tank return pump, plus manifold for running reactors
2 heaters
sizable fuge
Live Rock area for bio-filtration
Filter socks
GFO reactor
Carbon Reactor
UV sterilizer

I'm using a 125 gallon tank for the sump, and never really built a sump before or used a legit sump. Only experience I have is using a wet/dry that had the wet'dry part removed and basically just had a single chamber for all equipment.

how many chambers should I have for this type of set up? how big should they be? and in what order would be best?

From overflow, to return pump, I was thinking...Filter socks, Live rock, Fuge, Skimmer, Return chamber. Does that make sense?

Any pictures of set ups for larger sumps would be helpful as well.

Whats the best material to make the baffles from? Glass or acrylic sheets? I'm not opposed to either, but cheaper is for sure a plus.

 

[Big G]

Bump

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

This is kind of what I was thinking for the sump

 

[Dubs83]

IMO, with the skimmer sharing the same chamber as the return pump, you’ll get bubbles in your display.

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

IMO, with the skimmer sharing the same chamber as the return pump, you’ll get bubbles in your display.

Good Point, Should the skimmer have it's own chamber before the sump?

Also, for the sump I plan on making a short stand for the tank to make it level, and to bring it up to a convenient height to work in. Not too high, maybe a foot or so. Anyone have any experience making a stand to go on a basmenet floor that is not flat or level? Do you just skim the heck out of it, or build the stand in place to account for the irregularities in the floor, and shim a little bit for finishing touches to making the top of the stand level?

 

[ithk21620]

I would move the fuge to right after the filter socks, then skimmer and put the rock in with the returns if you want to add or need more rock. Rock in the sump can be good or bad. Where you have it, it will collect a lot of detritus and other stuff and can eventually be ineffective.

Also the discharge of your reactors should go to the pump chamber, no point of putting the clean water from the reactors back into the dirty side of your sump.

 

[Wolf89]

You want the fuge after the skimmer, otherwise all your microfauna will be skimmed out. People underestimate how use they are

 

[George Lopez]

You don't want the skimmer in the same chamber as previously stated but not just for bubbles but also the change in water level will give you hell in tuning the skimmer.

For the flooring not being level if you have access to a table saw I would find the angle it's sitting at and create long full length shims to compensate, if not then small shims every 6 inches to a foot should be fine

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

I would move the fuge to right after the filter socks, then skimmer and put the rock in with the returns if you want to add or need more rock. Rock in the sump can be good or bad. Where you have it, it will collect a lot of detritus and other stuff and can eventually be ineffective.

Also the discharge of your reactors should go to the pump chamber, no point of putting the clean water from the reactors back into the dirty side of your sump.

Both points make sense to me, but would Wolf89's point of the microfauna being removed by the skimmer be valid? I'd like to keep as many pods as possible as I plan to eventually get a mandrin. If the protein skimmer will be removing a significant amount of them, than it might make sense to have the skimmer before the fuge.

You want the fuge after the skimmer, otherwise all your microfauna will be skimmed out. People underestimate how use they are

I certainly want a healthy microfauna population. DO the skimmers really remove the microfauna and pods? I always thought they removed organics that are stuck to the water surface. Not sure if microfauna are also removed in the process.

You don't want the skimmer in the same chamber as previously stated but not just for bubbles but also the change in water level will give you hell in tuning the skimmer.

For the flooring not being level if you have access to a table saw I would find the angle it's sitting at and create long full length shims to compensate, if not then small shims every 6 inches to a foot should be fine

Good advice, I'll put the skimmer in its own chamber, or at least one with constant water height. For the floor, I'd like to make long shims to run lengthwise, but the basement floor is not only sloped, but wavy and not straight. Shimming every 6" or so it is.

 

[Dubs83]

Both points make sense to me, but would Wolf89's point of the microfauna being removed by the skimmer be valid? I'd like to keep as many pods as possible as I plan to eventually get a mandrin. If the protein skimmer will be removing a significant amount of them, than it might make sense to have the skimmer before the fuge.



I certainly want a healthy microfauna population. DO the skimmers really remove the microfauna and pods? I always thought they removed organics that are stuck to the water surface. Not sure if microfauna are also removed in the process.



Good advice, I'll put the skimmer in its own chamber, or at least one with constant water height. For the floor, I'd like to make long shims to run lengthwise, but the basement floor is not only sloped, but wavy and not straight. Shimming every 6" or so it is.

I wouldn’t overly concern myself about the skimmer removing pods. I’m using a 125g tank as a sump and it goes through filter socks, then refugium, then skimmer section, then bubble trap and finally the return. I’m not seeing any shortage of microfauna. As a matter of fact, I removed my MP40s to service and clean and the black surfaces were covered in pods. I’m sure my skimmer pulls some out but I’m not worried about it.

As far as your floors go, mine weren’t level either. I built a 10” stand and placed shims under the perpendicular sections of the stand (the section that acted like legs). Majority of the weight is concentrated in those areas. If you’re worried about, shim every few inches or so just make sure the shims make contact with your stand and the ground. Having said this, I’m not an engineer.

 

[BeejReef]

With a 40+ gallon fuge, you may not even need a skimmer. I second many of the others and vote for skimmer on far left. You can also put some of that rubble rock in w ur chaeto to give your pods a nicer habitat. With as much space (AWESOME!) as you're giving yourself in the fuge, you could grow some edible macro-algae as well. Very jealous of your basement setup!

 

[Dubs83]

Found a pic to give you some reference!

Red circles is where I placed shims.

 

[gmneil]

I would put the skimmer before the fuge. Anything you put in the fuge like cheto and gunk that breaks loose will make its way to the skimmer pump if its after the fuge, more cleaning and work on your end.

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

Thanks for all of the advice everyone! I'm gong to redraw the sump and take into account the suggestions and see what I come up with. I've very excited to get the sump going, but still have alot to do to get the basement ready for the sump. Hoping I can finish the french drain this coming week and get the walls painted. Then will need to build a short stand for the sump

 

[Jose A Diaz]

If you’re running a 3 chamber sump I recommend putting skimmer on first chamber and fuge on second one or vice versa never put a skimmer in the return chamber or you going to have problems with the water level not being stable I have my skimmer in the first chamber and fuge in second one

 

[Jose A Diaz]

If you’re running a 3 chamber sump I’ll recommend putting your skimmer on the first chamber or the second one or vice versa never put a skimmer in the return chamber or you will have problems with the water level not being stable. My sump water flows from right to left on this picture I have my skimmer on the first chamber and fuge on the second and last it’s my return. 40 gallon breeder custom sump I built myself. Hope this helps...

 

[Jklanning]

I'm looking for suggestions on how to baffle my new sump build.

I am getting ready to upgrade from a 20 gallon "wet/dry" sump in my tank stand to a 125 gallon basement sump for my 150 gallon display on the first floor, and will be adding a basement frag tank to the system as well. Will likely add additional frag tanks to the system in the future as space fills up.

Things I want for my sump:
internal skimmer (BM Curve 7)
Jebao DCP-18,000 return pump for display
Possibly Mag 9.5 for frag tank return pump, plus manifold for running reactors
2 heaters
sizable fuge
Live Rock area for bio-filtration
Filter socks
GFO reactor
Carbon Reactor
UV sterilizer

I'm using a 125 gallon tank for the sump, and never really built a sump before or used a legit sump. Only experience I have is using a wet/dry that had the wet'dry part removed and basically just had a single chamber for all equipment.

how many chambers should I have for this type of set up? how big should they be? and in what order would be best?

From overflow, to return pump, I was thinking...Filter socks, Live rock, Fuge, Skimmer, Return chamber. Does that make sense?

Any pictures of set ups for larger sumps would be helpful as well.

Whats the best material to make the baffles from? Glass or acrylic sheets? I'm not opposed to either, but cheaper is for sure a plus.

What thickness of glass did you end up using to silicone in your dividers and baffles?

 

[Reefs and Geeks]

What thickness of glass did you end up using to silicone in your dividers and baffles?

I ended up using 1/4" acrylic actually and has worked well so far. One sheet that is holding alot of water between the fuge section and skimmer section bows some, but everything is water tight, not even a drip leak anywhere. I was generous with the silicone though.