300 gallon oasis build in AZ

[BeltedCoyote]

All caught up. Awesome stuff my guy!

 

[1ocean]

So 300 been up and running 7 week this Friday. Got most of the fish moved from the 140.. Gonna move the last of them this weekend.
Sulfur/aragonite reactor, two little fishes phosban reactor, chemipure blue reactor and air exchange tower all been running two weeks this coming friday. Should see some sort of stability soon...
Still doing the Brightwell clean and bio fuel trick with no lights on the 300.
Hope this works in keeping the ugly stage less of a disaster...
Will switch to microbacter 7 after 4 months for maintenance.
I just got some info about Trop Marin NP Bacto balance, going to explore more reading info on this ...
Is anyone using it to help keep things in check and for coral growth...?

 

[1ocean]

So, things were going good in the 300 until the tang from Hawaii which we had for almost 1 1/2 years went crazy and caused the powder blue to ick/velvet out and we lost 6 other fish in a day. So we moved all the coral to a 75 with no fish for 76 to 80 days. After lots of reading we moved all the fish to the 140 and started treatment.
Tore down the 300, cleaned it all out and the tank and rock have been dry since Dec 1st.
Since I was not completely happy with the two sump idea, we ran out of room for stuff, I decided to build a new sump 5ft x2ft x 18" tall.
Gonna do water test today and then install it.

 

[1ocean]

some more pictures

 

[1ocean]

We did find a good home for the Hawaii yellow tang and all the other fish are happy but still in the 140 with copper treatment. All are eating and getting along even the 2 yellow tangs which are buddies. We did lose the powder blue and we will not be getting another ever,even though they are beautiful....
time for coffee it is done...

 

[Eagle_Steve]

We did find a good home for the Hawaii yellow tang and all the other fish are happy but still in the 140 with copper treatment. All are eating and getting along even the 2 yellow tangs which are buddies. We did lose the powder blue and we will not be getting another ever,even though they are beautiful....
time for coffee it is done...

All caught up, so drink your coffee and get to it!!!!! Cannot wait to see this thing all done.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Definitely a bummer about having to rebuild the sump, But better to get it figured out now than when it's up and running for a while that you don't like it.

Curious what a sheet of acrylic costs out there.

 

[najer]

Sorry to hear about the fish.

 

[1ocean]

All caught up, so drink your coffee and get to it!!!!! Cannot wait to see this thing all done.

once I do the water test gonna dry fit everything that goes inside again and will take a pic .

 

[1ocean]

Definitely a bummer about having to rebuild the sump, But better to get it figured out now than when it's up and running for a while that you don't like it.

Curious what a sheet of acrylic costs out there.

I really cant give you a real price on sheet cost since I have not bought a full sheet but when I was speaking to my source they range from $300 - $400 for one sheet of 1/4 inch or a little thinner(.22mm). I do not like anything less then 1/4 (6.0mm) so it cost a little more. Also price difference from cheaper "plexiglass" (home depot or lowes on shelf stuff that has the clear plastic protecting it )that melts when cutting vs the good stuff like cast or extruded "acrylic" that has a paper protecting it.
I made friends with the owner and he lets me buy from their scrape racks.
I got two 2ftx5ft6" and one 2ftx4ft for $100.00 cash....all 1/4"(6mm).
If your looking for this stuff find a place and ask if they sell scraps....best way to save $

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

I really cant give you a real price on sheet cost since I have not bought a full sheet but when I was speaking to my source they range from $300 - $400 for one sheet of 1/4 inch or a little thinner(.22mm). I do not like anything less then 1/4 (6.0mm) so it cost a little more. Also price difference from cheaper "plexiglass" (home depot or lowes on shelf stuff that has the clear plastic protecting it )that melts when cutting vs the good stuff like cast or extruded "acrylic" that has a paper protecting it.
I made friends with the owner and he lets me buy from their scrape racks.
I got two 2ftx5ft6" and one 2ftx4ft for $100.00 cash....all 1/4"(6mm).
If your looking for this stuff find a place and ask if they sell scraps....best way to save $

That's a fantastic idea.

There are quite a few fabricators around that I know. My shop is easily able to work acrylic.

What tooth count blades are you using for cuts? I've got a 144 that I believe has a set ground for cutting aluminum but also works fantastic on sheet plastics.

The only issue with working on plastics is I have to disconnect my entire dust collection system because it does not flow through the PVC trunks nearly as well as sawdust does.

 

[Epic Aquaculture]

Sorry to hear about the fish, but it sounds like you'll be improving the system in the end. Looking forward to seeing the new sump in action!

 

[1ocean]

That's a fantastic idea.

There are quite a few fabricators around that I know. My shop is easily able to work acrylic.

What tooth count blades are you using for cuts? I've got a 144 that I believe has a set ground for cutting aluminum but also works fantastic on sheet plastics.

The only issue with working on plastics is I have to disconnect my entire dust collection system because it does not flow through the PVC trunks nearly as well as sawdust does.

i am using a carbide bit blade and I believe it has 144 teeth...the blade is red. Can't remember who made it...

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

i am using a carbide bit blade and I believe it has 144 teeth...the blade is red. Can't remember who made it...

Same count. Also carbide. Does it leave an adhesive ready edge right off the blade or do you joint it after?

 

[kingjames_dc5]

All caught up. Sorry to hear about the fish. I’ll definitely be following along on this one. Also located in the valley of the sun.

Same count. Also carbide. Does it leave an adhesive ready edge right off the blade or do you joint it after?

I worked for a custom wood shop for 15 years we also worked a lot of acrylic fine tooth blade and slow cuts creates the best result and minimal buildup. I believe its Diablo blades he’s referring to. Honestly the best way to cut acrylic is on a water jet. This is the cleanest cuts I have ever seen.

 

[1ocean]

Same count. Also carbide. Does it leave an adhesive ready edge right off the blade or do you joint it after?

leave a good edge, a quick lite sand with 300 sometimes if needed helps if needed..I use weld on 4 for the joints and then use a thin bead of weldon 16 the next day in the corners. Yes it not a joint I would use for a fish tank but it is only my sump.
Did water test yesterday filled it up to 16 inches and it held.

 

[1ocean]

All caught up. Sorry to hear about the fish. I’ll definitely be following along on this one. Also located in the valley of the sun.

I worked for a custom wood shop for 15 years we also worked a lot of acrylic fine tooth blade and slow cuts creates the best result and minimal buildup. I believe its Diablo blades he’s referring to. Honestly the best way to cut acrylic is on a water jet. This is the cleanest cuts I have ever seen.

yes that name sound right..and yes I did past the acrylic slowly through the table saw. The acylic I am using is named acrycast (cell cast) (6mm) cuts really easy and clean.
It does not get gummy or chip like that crap named plexiglass at home depot etc.
I heard about water jet cutting and I spoke to a guy who uses a laser to cut it .
If I decide to make some for people I will look into professional cutters.
I did this to be able to place things where I want them and most of all just to save me" money". It cost me only $100.00. Looking on line it would have cost me at least $800.00 for the biggest one they have on BRS etc and it still would have been smaller. I seen people spend thousand on their sumps and I am the type of guy, if I can build it and it works..I will..
Have a great holiday !!!
Hey I am in Gilbert/Chandler area....and I also belong to az frag. I did not go to last two meetings....

 

[1ocean]

That's a fantastic idea.

There are quite a few fabricators around that I know. My shop is easily able to work acrylic.

What tooth count blades are you using for cuts? I've got a 144 that I believe has a set ground for cutting aluminum but also works fantastic on sheet plastics.

The only issue with working on plastics is I have to disconnect my entire dust collection system because it does not flow through the PVC trunks nearly as well as sawdust does.

Yeah, for some reason when you cut acrylic is must give the shavings a negative or positive charge or causes static electricity ....Cant you just disconnect the duct to the saw your using just to cut acrylic. You would save a ton of $$$ making it yourself...especially since you know how to cut wood ..

 

[1ocean]

RODI system has been working filling the 300 for the last 3 days....
It is almost full and should begin producing water that will overflow into the sump, maybe today... 1/7/22

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Yeah, for some reason when you cut acrylic is must give the shavings a negative or positive charge or causes static electricity ....Cant you just disconnect the duct to the saw your using just to cut acrylic. You would save a ton of $$$ making it yourself...especially since you know how to cut wood ..

The blades from what I understand leave sawdust with a negative charge. I've got all of my tools and ducting grounded. Been zapped a few too many times since I don't wear shoes much less working in the shop.

Disconnecting the ducting would isolate the dust collection system but it's still going to fill the cabinet saw because I have a negative draw coming through the blade plate on purpose. I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to clean it up with a shop back after.