50g Shallow Mixed Reef

Discussion in 'Member Tanks' started by check83, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. check83

    check83 Member

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    IMG_20180304_195614.jpg

    50g tank 48Lx20Dx12H

    Equipment:
    Trigger Ruby 36 bought used
    Bubble Magus Curve 7 (reused from old tank)
    DCT 6000
    2x mp10 quietdrives (reused from old tank)
    2x G3 xr30 non-pro (reused from old tank)
    2x 150-watt Fluval heaters (reused from old tank)
    Apex classic (reused from old tank)
    temp probe
    ph probe
    2x eb8
    wxm
    breakout box​
    2x 1.1ml/minute brs dosers
    Marshydro led grow light
    Livestock from old tank:
    Fish:
    4" marine betta
    3" melanarus wrasse
    3" sailfin tang (will be rehoming)
    3" female ocellaris clown
    2 1/2" male ocellaris misbar clown​
    Corals:
    sunset monti
    mystic sunset monti
    jedi mind trick
    spongodes
    season's greetings cap
    bonsai tree
    pink/orange lobo
    orange/green lobo
    6 types of multi head acans
    30+ head frogspawn
    6" galaxia
    8" pink photosynthetic gorgonian sp.
    various zoanthids, palys, discosoma, rhodactics, polyps, lps frags.​
    Inverts:
    2" purple urchin sp
    4 1/2" derasa (died after move)
    5-6 snails turban and trochas​
    New livestock:
    2" Yellow eye kole tang
    3x 3/4" yellow tail damsels
    5 turbo snails
    The old tank was a 37 column tank with a plumbed in 20 gallon refugium, 20g frag tank, and 20g sump. The combination of the all the tanks was a nightmare to keep clean and the tank had gone through a couple mini crashes where I lost livestock, so I decided to do a reset. The old tank was setup in a bedroom converted office. The display was adjacent to a closet that housed the frag, and sump tanks. Plumbed through the wall.


     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2018
    Jessica Heck likes this.
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  2. check83

    check83 Member

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    What I started with, bought used from a local hobbiest. The tank is in decent shape, a few scratches but nothing too bad. It has an overflow box installed with a 2" bulkhead that is glued to a street elbow. I am sure this combination was super noisy.

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  3. check83

    check83 Member

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    I cut the bulkhead with a hacksaw to remove it. I knew there was a decent chance that I would reuse this bulkhead so I tried not to mangle it. I wanted to create a silent overflow so I took an old used inky box and glued a piece of acrylic onto the open side to make a closed box. I drilled the bottom for 2 1" bulkheads and the side for the 2" bulkhead to clamp it to the tank. This allows me a herbie style overflow. I did reuse the original bulkhead with a new gasket. I cleaned up the hacksaw cut on the band saw. Plumbing is red sch40 with gray sch80 fittings. Drains are 1" return is 3/4". Unfortunately I did a lot of work with out progress pictures.
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  4. check83

    check83 Member

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    I glued all the pvc and filled the tank up with tap water for testing. Everything looked good so I drained it and then decided to paint the bottom and repaint the back of the tank since I was planning to run bare bottom. The tank is setup in an unfinished basement. I wanted to finish the basement first, but didn't really have the time or money right now. I will work around the tank the best I can when the time comes.

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  5. check83

    check83 Member

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    It took a few days to get the tank up to temperature. Moved the livestock and liverock from the old tank on 2/25. Things were kinda thrown in at the time, but I actually liked how it ended up. The rocks were held together with fiberglass rods and epoxy in the old tank and I was able to basically break the structure into two shorter columns/piles. You can see I just through some egg crate on top to keep the fish in and at the time was using a single radion with an rms mount. I was in a hurry to get stuff out of the old tank and get the reset started. Very glad I did.

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  6. check83

    check83 Member

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    I was planning to run an open stand but a few nights after setup, the red light flooding the basement was too much so I decided to face the stand with melamine. While I was at it, I would build a canopy. I wasn't sure how I was going to mount the lights with an open top, and I am super paranoid about fish jumping (I have lost about 10 fish to carpet surfing in the past) so this would solve both concerns. I drew up a cut plan to take to home depot. I had them make all the major panel cuts for me. The results would have been better if I had cut the melamine myself but it is heavy and I didn't want to mess with it. I also figured the tank is in an unfinished basement and this was a utilitarian project, although it turned out looking pretty good. Pocket Screws!!!!
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  7. check83

    check83 Member

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    The hood opens from the mid top. the sides stay in place. The lights sit in a sled made from 2 aluminum angles. This arrangement allows me to easily move them in and out and side to side. Height adjustment would require some modification if needed.
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  8. check83

    check83 Member

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    Chrisfish and Jessica Heck like this.
  9. check83

    check83 Member

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    Some top down pictures.

    Radion xr30 g3 all channels @ 100%
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  10. check83

    check83 Member

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    Added some rock and moved some stuff around. The sailfin has been nipping at my acans pretty bad so he may need to go soon. IMG_20180309_195552.jpg
    I want to grow mostly sps on the center structure. That will add some height that I think will balance things out well.
     
  11. check83

    check83 Member

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    My sump has gotten very funky since startup only 2 weeks ago. Lots of green film/slime/diatoms/cyano. I don't know for sure what to call it. The sump was very clean just a few days ago. Not a huge deal but could be tedious to do maintenance. The fuge section can grow all it wants but it's troublesome to have it on the protein skimmer and return pump. Maybe I should swap the fuge and the protein skimmer? IMG_20180309_121923.jpg
    I am going to run the fuge light less, but I'm going to do it with a pH if/then condition. My tanks have always run high pH. The normal swing is 8.3 to 8.6. 8.3 at night right before the fuge light comes on and raises all night long. The peak of pH is when the fuge light goes off. So I set the light on from 11am to 11pm but off when pH reached 8.5. this should knock an hour+ off the light cycle.
     
  12. check83

    check83 Member

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    Things have settled in nicely. I added some frags this week. All pictures taken under radions (all channels @ 100%) with a pixel phone. IMG_20180408_220243.jpg IMG_20180408_220341.jpg IMG_20180408_220203.jpg IMG_20180408_220216.jpg IMG_20180408_220313.jpg IMG_20180408_220341.jpg IMG_20180408_220203.jpg IMG_20180408_220240.jpg
     
  13. check83

    check83 Member

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    I've been chasing alkalinity and pH, but I think I have it under control. Ph has always been high on my tanks, rarely dropping below 8.3 and often hitting 8.6. When I mounted my new frags, I used some epoxy which made my skimmer go crazy, and I couldn't get it settled down for about a week. In the week my pH shot way up and my alk dropped to around 4 at the same time. I couldn't get my 2part doses to buffer the alk, although they did raise the pH even more, I almost hit 9 at one point. Magnesium was around 1250. I have dosed it back up to 1350. Calcium has always been around 440. I threw in a bag of carbon and the skimmer is running again. The pH dropped and the alk is back up to 7.5. I dose 26ml of brs 2 part daily. I have a very large ball of chaeto, so I think there was too much oxygen in the water which prevented the alkalinity to buffer. With the skimmer running, it provides enough gas exchange to raise the co2 levels which allows the alkalinity to raise? That sounds backwards, usually you need the skimmer to lower co2 levels.
     
  14. check83

    check83 Member

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