720 gallon acryllic

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Seneca

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Full of water. Those rocks sure are dusty.

I'm going to start with however many 95% water changes of tap water it takes with power heads and closed loop at full blast to get rid of the dust. Will then sit for a week with tap water and some lanthanum chloride, followed by another week, at least, in rodi also with lanthanum chloride followed by as close to 100% water change as possible with saltwater and will begin cycle.

I've got a two small convict tangs, a 12 inch sohal, a 6 inch unicorn, a scopas, and some damsels hanging out in the sump waiting for their new home to be up and running. They just graduated from quarentine today.

In my other tank (125 gallon) I have a red sea sailfin, powder blue, a purple, and a yellow tang, also a foxface, a flame and coral beauty angel a few Mandarins, and some damsels and clowns. It has gotten a bit crowded in there in anticipation of having this new tank up and running a bit sooner. They will all be moving.

I'm debating what to do with an emperor angel I have in another sump atm. This large tank will be a mixed reef, I might give the emperor a try or I might convert my 125 to a fowlr.

The sohal was a model citizen in quarentine and lets me pet it. It outgrew someone else's tank.

All fish were treated prophylactically for ick and velvet before they entered either system, although I'll throw some black mollys into both systems before I mix them to be sure.

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Seneca

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What does everyone think of using buckets of sand in the fuge as a deep sand bed that I can lift out and replace after they get too dirty in a few years? Should I just build a denitrator instead?

I have a ~200 gallon fuge/sump that will be largely empty as my skimmer, calcium reactor, etc are all external.
 
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Seneca

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Two 100% water changes later. Still a bit cloudy but much better. I should have acid soaked and power washed the rocks after smashing them into smaller bits rather than before.

There are still some lines that are a bit too straight I need to deal with next time I empty it.

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Don’t forget prazipro for flukes. May as well get that done while you’re waiting.

Did you already say what this tank was being used for before you got it?
 
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Don’t forget prazipro for flukes. May as well get that done while you’re waiting.

Sorry, I didn't explain my full protocol. I used chloroquine phosphate for 17 days. During this time they were transferred to a new tank predosed with cp every 3 days. All treated with general cure and focus on food for 14 days while in CP. They all got two rounds of prazipro after. Then they got moved to the sump of the new tank which had been cycling with live rock for a month or so.

What did you already say what this tank was being used for before you got it?

Didn't say. It wasn't really being used. The person we bought it from had plans for it that didn't pan out. Before that I don't know. The plexiglass on the bottom panel still has the original backing material on it and was manufactured in the mid 90s, so I assume the tank was also assembled around then. The plexiglass is just over 1.5 inches thick.
 
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Here is the transitioning emperor. There also is a 5 or 6 inch unicorn, a convict and a scopas in there that are shy. A couple damsels too. They all have gotten along through quarentine.

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Seneca

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Installed a 72 inch life reef skimmer. Immediately started pulling thick skimmate. Nice skimmer. I'm running it with a blueline 70 hd pump, plumbed through a bulkhead in the sump.

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Seneca

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Let the ugly phase begin!

Tank is about half way through it's (nitrogen) cycle. Started it off by adding 4 shrimp, some mud from the ocean and a couple small live rocks from my established tank. Also seeded it with hair algae from my algae scrubber (I'm not worried about hair algae at all, it's full of pods and bristle worms, will hopefully out compete anything more nasty, and once I add my army of tangs they will make short work of it.

I added some bacteria in a bottle yesterday to help finish off the cycle, I didn't start with that as I wanted some wild ocean bacteria a chance to get established first for diversity. Once this phase of cycle is over I'll drip acclimate some more live rocks. Once I have a nice wavy mess of hair algae I'll add some fish.

I'm adding a couple more shrimp a week to build the bio-filter.

Still waiting on my mighty magnet(ff-8). I expect the acrylic to get exponentially more gross until it arrives.

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Lowell Lemon

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I can understand why you added the Weld On 40 since 1.5" is on the thin side for the main panel. Is the panel height 48" or the outside measurement from bottom to top 48"? Did you happen to measure the panel deflection from dry to full water load? I would think you might have some noticeable bowing to the face of both main panels at full load. Just curious not a problem if the bonds are water clear and now gusseted.

Most large tank builds with Weld On 40 or 42 are not as strong as proper solvent welded seams. I was able to break bonds clean with impacts to 2" sheets versus failure to the parent material with solvent bonds. Also the Weld On product I think should be heat annealed after assembly for the best joint strength if I remember the technical bulletins.

Nice large tank and the fish will love the swim room!
 
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Seneca

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I can understand why you added the Weld On 40 since 1.5" is on the thin side for the main panel. Is the panel height 48" or the outside measurement from bottom to top 48"?

The later. So that's something like 45 inch panels. Braced well at the top (a bit too well as it makes lighting more of challenge). I know there are other tanks that are of similar dimensions that are only 1 inch thick.

Did you happen to measure the panel deflection from dry to full water load? I would think you might have some noticeable bowing to the face of both main panels at full load. Just curious not a problem if the bonds are water clear and now gusseted.

The panel was flat with my (4 foot) square when dry and has not noticeably bowed when full.

Most large tank builds with Weld On 40 or 42 are not as strong as proper solvent welded seams. I was able to break bonds clean with impacts to 2" sheets versus failure to the parent material with solvent bonds. Also the Weld On product I think should be heat annealed after assembly for the best joint strength if I remember the technical bulletins.

The seams are solvent welded and in good shape. I actually welded an acrylic rod end to end with 40 when I was testing it out and tried to break it and it broke not at the joint. When the ratio was off, even a little, it was much much weaker.

The weld on 40 is for additional support due to an abundance of paranoia. I also don't know of any oven I could fit the whole tank in ;). This must never be done in practice when used in aquarium manufacture.

It was full of water for probably a couple decades before I bought it without the additional support.

Nice large tank and the fish will love the swim room!

The fish definitely are going to be a lot happier. My 125 is overstocked in anticipation of having this ready. I'm glad I was a bit impatient in buying fish because it doesn't seem very possible at the moment. Hopefully everyone is staying healthy[/quote]
 

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Just joined your forum. I've had a 180 gallon system at work (125 main display) for a few years and we just decided to upgrade. Just got our new tank unloaded from the truck after driving it 500 miles from where I picked it up.

It has a central overflow and I've been thinking how I want to best hide that.


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Love that, where purchased from?
 

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