A thread tracking pure skip cycle instant reefs, no bottle bac

The simple fact remains that if a reef tank is a skip cycle setup, by page two of its review thread only 1% of posters will agree it’s a skip cycle setup and that’s only if api agrees. Until that standard flips: what we do here is definitely new stuff.

we won’t be testing here

we won‘t be doubting here

we will be catching skip cycle setups off tank pics, not tank parameter readings from non digital kits. Those events directly happened in the example from post #172

we then confirm the diagnosis with an inquiry of the history of the rock in the tank. When a pet store has a vat of wet rock called live rock, costing more than dry rock, it is. That’s the basis of our entire thread.

this vat of rock at my pet store is marked live rock

101F5253-3A30-4B69-90B0-1EB955BC6AF3.jpeg

it is, any of us can spot this stuff a mile away. It’s wet when someone buys it, and wet when it goes in the tank at home
 
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There is no reason to re-cycle a tank - going from one to another - assuming you haven't let the rock, etc dry out. Ifr you want an insurance policy - for perhaps 10,000 worth of corals and fish - adding 29.99 worth of bacteria is not a bad investment IMHO.
 
I was out of the hobby for a few years 2013-2020. My biggest shock coming back was everyone wanting these pristine, white, sterile bare-rock systems and having tons of cycling problems. This just didn't exist back in the day. We got some live rock, some live sand, and boom tank's cycled. If you killed your rock, you just run it in a trashcan with a power head and a heater for a while to let the dead stuff rot off. When I observed this new paradigm, my first thought was "who's making a ton of money from dead rock and bacteria?" Nothing has changed about biology and chemistry, just marketing.

Nothing has changed about biology and chemistry, just marketing,
i like how you put it out exactly in perfect sentence , now im no stranger to aquariums as been in freshwater for 10 years and just joined reef almost a month now , if new people pay attention when they watching youtube videos and researching before start with their new tank they must have crossed video how to setup quarantine tank or some they had to set a third tank for emergency every youtuber gets a filter sponge from established tank and they start instantly so if you think about it why would a sponge skip cycle a quarantine tank and a live rock with thousands tiny micro places they can start a colony .

I agree with Brandon totally and i will create a detailed thread and keep updating it of my experience , and mate Brandon dont get upset many not agreeing on this , its i guess because they spent loads of money and cycled maybe for a month and more using other methods so they wouldn't agree on this just like the shop keepers pushing bacteria and ammonia bottles and dead rocks
 
i like how you put it out exactly in perfect sentence , now im no stranger to aquariums as been in freshwater for 10 years and just joined reef almost a month now , if new people pay attention when they watching youtube videos and researching before start with their new tank they must have crossed video how to setup quarantine tank or some they had to set a third tank for emergency every youtuber gets a filter sponge from established tank and they start instantly so if you think about it why would a sponge skip cycle a quarantine tank and a live rock with thousands tiny micro places they can start a colony .

I agree with Brandon totally and i will create a detailed thread and keep updating it of my experience , and mate Brandon dont get upset many not agreeing on this , its i guess because they spent loads of money and cycled maybe for a month and more using other methods so they wouldn't agree on this just like the shop keepers pushing bacteria and ammonia bottles and dead rocks
I completely agree with Brandon that if you take rock from one tank, and move it to another - lets say its bigger - with the same bioload, that there should be no change in anything. There should be no need to test ammonia - unless there was something that makes you doubt that your live rock survived (like sitting in a trunk when it's 100 degrees outside).

There is no natural situation whereby a tank would go from 0 ammonia to 2 ppm - so adding 2 ppm ammonia as a 'test' to see if a tank can handle it seems odd to me. IMHO - @Lasse 's method makes the most sense.

However, that said perhaps the supply chain in Sweden is different, etc etc. Additionally the testing from all test kits seems kind of poor. If one follows the directions of an API test kit, there is no reason to form a 'different baseline' - just follow the directions - a slight tinge of green is still zero according to the directions.

It is my strong suggestion that (without any test kits) - you can add dry rock to a tank - with Fritz 9000 per directions - add fish and you will have no ammonia toxicity...

It is also my strong opinion that cycling has nothing to do with 'disease prep' - in that only about 50-60% of people quarantine on this site - and many report no problems.
 
sounds fair.

What I was aiming for in this thread was simply a collection of the niche in reef cycling where rocks from one tank are moved to another and there is 0% consideration given to the cycle, because we trust it so inherently knowing the origin of a certain segment of rocks we can attain in this hobby.

Confidence in outcome, known start date for the system has always been 100% here (but not in the example threads)

there isn't any type of cycling I was ever shown in print that allowed total confidence on a start date for a reef tank before it was ever assembled. that was always taught as an open-ended and iffy wait time type of cycle. these here are me saying: your cycle was done before you brought the rocks home, you can reef right now, 1 minute after tank setup given all other expected controls a reef needs.


it's neat to keep documenting this one type of cycle as I spot them in posts over and over without fail (intended bioload always lives but a cheap ammonia kit is causing alarm to the keeper) so that reef cyclers can opt for this version of cycling when possible. I consider it the best cycling in reefing due to the biome quality rocks with coralline on them bring into a new tank.

we always use the safety reference of sellers at a reef convention as our marker of reliability: for decades these sellers bring in an empty glass tank, animals packed in holding containers or bags, styrofoam or real coolers packed with live rock from some other tank two states away (it rode to the convention merely in the cooler, sealed off, with no water a majority of the time, sellers know how resilient bacteria are it's the buyers who live in constant stall fear) and they assemble that day 1 right before the convention. it's ready right then to reef fully, the gear they put/trust into these skip cycle reefs is their whole sales inventory for the entire convention, and no sellers have crashes they pull this off because they use different rules than buyers do regarding reef tank cycling.

this thread is an attempt to reveal this assuredness to the buyers. I can spot a skip cycle tank among posts, then I link them back here for retro study/see how the advisor peers in the example threads play between confidence in cycling (like convention sellers for thirty years) or completely fear-ridden buyers who can't sleep well until an api kit gives a hard yellow zero ammonia reading.

even though some readers may not agree on all material written, this thread continues to be a collection of cured live rock transfers, no testing, no bottle bac advised by me, and we track the outcomes for initial bioload carry in the tank. uncycled reefs can't keep animals alive for days, only cycled reefs can do that. since testing is so haphazard among non digital ammonia kit owners, we're using crash/not crashed does carry life for days on end/can't carry life at all as the final marker in whether or not a given set of rocks were truly skip cycle ones as stated. we cannot rely on the public's use of API test kits to determine cycle status.

I'd give anything if more seneye owners would post their nh3 outcomes in this thread when dealing with live rock transfers of any type, the precision that kit gives is the true looking glass into what cycles are doing and within what timeframe.

it is very important for this thread that we never reference any testing of any parameter other than a seneye's nh3 reading once it has been calibrated on a running reef tank for baseline accuracy. if we don't do that, we lose the things that make this thread unique and it will become a standard cycling debate thread. there's no debating whether or not animals keep remaining alive as predicted for four years, I want to remove subjectivity from reef tank cycling just this once. when seneye isn't present to verify outcomes, we revert here to the known origin of the live rock as the final say in whether or not the cycle was a skip cycle via transfer one
 
any reader of this thread should be able to go into a pet store and identify their own rock as skip cycle or not, with total confidence, having no input from the employees at all (recognizes obvious benthic life forms as a signal of skip cycle live rock) nor labeling needed on the holding vat. see that aquarium picture above of my lfs' live rock tank? there's no sign stating it as such. it's a big tank full of reef rock, the details are inside.

but when we go up close and see old school heavy reef rock in that tank, with coralline, and the whole tank is brittle star arms poking out of crevices, and pods, and fish have been swimming in there for ten months, and the rocks have some vermitids and some small algae patches and the occasional zoanthid attached already
 
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thank you very much for contributing!

we also found that established reef tank water has many many millions of active bacteria colonies that eat up ammonia to offer as cycling help. major sources says it does not, am aware of that. we all know bacteria resides on live rock

but cycling bacteria are in water too, specifically against the claims of the masses (the same masses who don't have a ruleset allowing for skip cycle live rocks)

Dr. Tims macna video says reef water doesn't hold nitrifiers

Aquabiomics has several reefs where their sampling showed none

but then using work threads to break rules (a theme) we have cycled more than one reef by simply moving over water from an existing and waiting about 20 days.

in your case, even a tiny bit of real live rock is so powerful it will handle initial bioloads on its own...the water conference was a ready boost. excellent example.

in a reef tank, both the water and the surfaces have nitrifying bacteria they tend to distribute. there are not zones of sterility underwater in a reef tank, all vital space is used. we can transfer materials from any portion of a reef tank and that will confer a cycle ability into the new system.

I'm researching settings up a new tank, and ran across the this and the other related thread. I haven't read them both fully yet, so forgive me if this was covered, but is there any info on how much rock is needed to cycle an aquarium of a given size?

The poster you replied to was setting up a 10G and used small seeded rocks / rubble and tank water along with dry rock.

Would say a golf ball sized live rock be enough to seed a 10G tank with dry rock? Would the cycle be slower or faster depending on the size of both the starting seeded rock and size of the aquarium?

Is the timeline the same regardless? How long would you need to wait until you could remove the original seed rock and consider the dry rock seeded?
 
20 days roughly is how long inert surfaces require to take on bacteria from cycled surfaces solely by being in the same flow path with the cycled surfaces, we have this timing tracked in another thread where only reef tank water is used, no bottle bac no feed, to fully cycle a 200 gallon dry rock system.

If you're going to use a small chunk then add in one medium sized ground up pinch of fish food during the 20 day wait. It'll be cycled at the end of that wait period, without any testing needed.

Per this thread, you're better off installing cured live rocks and not any dry ones if possible. It's worth the money
 
I've already ordered my dry rock, but after reading some of this thread the plan I have now is to check a few local shops and see if they sell rock, and get a boulder to sit in the tank temporarily. I ran across the other guy setting up a 10G and started pondering just adding some rock to the back of the tank (it's an AIO).

Also, thanks so much for taking the time to respond!
 
20 days roughly is how long inert surfaces require to take on bacteria from cycled surfaces solely by being in the same flow path with the cycled surfaces, we have this timing tracked in another thread where only reef tank water is used, no bottle bac no feed, to fully cycle a 200 gallon dry rock system.

If you're going to use a small chunk then add in one medium sized ground up pinch of fish food during the 20 day wait. It'll be cycled at the end of that wait period, without any testing needed.

Per this thread, you're better off installing cured live rocks and not any dry ones if possible. It's worth the money
I'm going to give you a different perspective - if you look at many bottled bacteria - which are not anywhere near as costly as live rock - you can add bacteria and fish on day 1. There is no magic (IMHO) to 'live rock' - it's just rock with bacteria. Likewise - live sand - its sand with bacteria - I have set up perhaps 50 tanks with dry rock and bacteria and never had a 'cycling problem'. In fact - never tested ammonia, etc - though this is now called by one poster alone (new cycling science)
 
MNFish

Please unsub from all my threads I don't want to communicate with you at all. Of course you're free to wreck them, ride coat tails vs make your own work threads, but I wouldn't do that if another man asked me to vacate. I'd hit ignore, which you should do and I have done, your post today didn't add anything here its just baiting, like 99% of the time when you post in other people's threads, I can link several times you successfully derailed others threads

I'm reading on a work iPad and saw you posted, notice how many years it's been since I posted on a thread you made? Reciprocate that, I don't like your writing style it's annoying. Your persistence in other people's threads is telling/trolling. Make your own threads, I promise not to ever post in them going forward.

Readers:
We will continue to make the custom cycle calls that have lent reliable results for ten straight years here.
 
@SixlineRyan I'm glad you posted. We didn't have any trolling until the recent post because trolls wait for pounce opportunity we can see by simply clicking their avatar and looking at their last six months posts. I'm glad you posted here for sure.

There comes a break point, different for each reef but usually when installing at least a few pounds of quality cured rock in a display, where the whole system becomes skip cycle even if there's lots of dry materials sitting passively

A golf ball sized chunk won't do it, not enough surface area, but a few pounds will. It's not like you have to get 100% cured rock but 20 lbs sure would get your tank heading the right way with a viable food web in place early on, it'll skip cycle and carry bioloading on day one if that need is there
 
Readers: if anyone can link me a published article in reefing that shows how to skip cycle a reef tank (no testing no bottle bac used) that would be great to see. We can see how well known this method is

If there aren't any published articles on skip cycling then we'll continue filling that void
 
MNFish

Please unsub from all my threads I don't want to communicate with you at all. Of course you're free to wreck them, ride coat tails vs make your own work threads, but I wouldn't do that if another man asked me to vacate. I'd hit ignore, which you should do and I have done, your post today didn't add anything here its just baiting, like 99% of the time when you post in other people's threads, I can link several times you successfully derailed others threads

I'm reading on a work iPad and saw you posted, notice how many years it's been since I posted on a thread you made? Reciprocate that, I don't like your writing style it's annoying. Your persistence in other people's threads is telling/trolling. Make your own threads, I promise not to ever post in them going forward.

Readers:
We will continue to make the custom cycle calls that have lent reliable results for ten straight years here.
:)
 
I have had success with pico tanks but have used dry rock and bacteria. Had no issues but still tested. I do 100 percent water changes weekly. Been doing for years.

There is no difference in putting live rock in new tank and doing a 100 percent water change. You could say Its a new tank each week for me lol. Minus what is left in sand but my 5 gallon a few years ago I did i took it apart just about each week, cleaned glass with fresh salt water, pulled all rock work out and set back up. I even have video of process on youtube. Only die off was from my lack of care or mistakes.

If using enough live Rock in new tank, no cycle will happen. I dosed bacteria just for a little diversity as it may have different kind of similar bacteria but not needed.
 
Ben thank you for posting on track. Owe you one man.
 
Readers: if anyone can link me a published article in reefing that shows how to skip cycle a reef tank (no testing no bottle bac used) that would be great to see. We can see how well known this method is

If there aren't any published articles on skip cycling then we'll continue filling that void
There is a discussion somewhere here on bacteria and rate for colonizing as well. Talks a bit about not cycling but long ago.
 
It's true Dan and Taricha do exceptional work on timing rates for our filter bacteria/ enjoy seeing their works every time one is posted. When they become seneye tests I'll shed a happy tear not joking:)

I can't wait for the day when all cycling data comes from precision calibrated gear. Probably won't be for another 5 years but we'll have troves of non digital data to audit in hindsight

Until that day comes/ when we're all using calibrated digital ammonia gear, what I use in my threads is simply: did your stuff die or live (in pattern, across years and pages from a given cycling thread)

I like to inspect the macro outcomes from cycling jobs until the day comes we can get reliable detailed measures from cycling posts

I'm most interested in discerning the wait times associated with a given cycle approach. This thread here is a zero wait time option.
 
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I just googled:

reef tank skip cycle

and from that search, I got zero returns from any formal articles. what I did see was a few r2r threads showing that ability in action, and then several threads from years ago on other forums where total confusion reigned and not any actual jobs were being done in work threads. this matter is for sure not clear cut as a history within the reefing hobby.
 

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