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reefernc02
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He’s moving more now and just trying to balance out his diet and fatten him up
Achilles tang
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Get some live macroalgae in him - it doesn’t help getting them eating on frozen or prepared foods, but as long as he can graze and is eating something it’s a pretty good start.
Other than that, like Jay and everyone else has said, it’s pretty hard to say why he isn’t feeding in the video - Possibly fluke causing the rapid breathing, but they don’t usually stop them from eating. Also, high oxygen levels and high flow may help him some more.
Other questions for you;
1. Size of tank? And an FTS if possible - I know it’s not always possible.
2. Other fish within the system? Any other tangs or large aggressive species?
3. How big is the Achilles?
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Australian_Reef
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I’ve had success with the hikari probiotic herbivore pellets. The packet says that have been made to be more feeding inducing to fish… I have had success but not tried with an Achilles.
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reefernc02
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Approximately 6 1/2 inches plenty of flow I’m sure of that and the tank size is 100 gallons
My experience is that Tangs that are primarily grazers sometimes take a while to get used to other free floating foods. Bristletooths since they are almost 100 percent grazers are a good example. My Tangs have never been crazy about bloodworms. I like LRS Frozen. My Moorish Idol loves the stuff along with my Tangs. It's balanced also.
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Also remember how bloody difficult Achilles can be. I’d try everything green. More natural the better.
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reefernc02
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Can do!
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In the wild Achilles tangs are selective browsers. They like to forage on film algae growing on rocks or dead coral heads that are free of heavy macroalgae or live coral. In this film algae you will find an ecosystem in itself. If you were to scrape this stuff up and scope it you would find the algae, detritus, microfauna like pods and polychaete worms of various species etc. so in a sense these Achilles are eating a balanced omnivorous diet that’s predominantly algal. As juveniles, these fish recruit typically into the deeper fringing reefs where branching corals like porites compressa is found. You’ll encounter them typically living solitary as juveniles sometimes forming small aggregations if the recruitment pulse brings enough fish in(or if establishment is permitted) Recruitment size is approximately 2-2.5” and the fish appears solid black with no orange markings. They’ll stay in put in the deeper reefs for many months saying close to their house. As they mature their territory/range increases. These deep reefs are current swept but nothing intense. They grow rapidly and within the year they will migrate more into the shallows and will usually form a pair as they become hand-size. After about a years growth the fish will make its final jump from the upper end of the deeper reefs into the super shallow surge zone where the adult population resides. These adults prefer wave washed flat areas with sparse coral growth which consists of mostly tenacious varieties of coral such as Pocillopora and Porites lobata. These flat areas are essential as they’re constantly being grazed on for the film algae’s they host. If you’re scuba diving in about 25-30 feet and look towards shore and up in the shallow surge zone you’ll see Achilles riding around on waves working the algae mats in between sets. They zoom around like birds on the breeze and you’ll notice the electric white and blue outlines all the way to their tail streamers
In captivity, it’s best to buy smaller size as they adapt better and are easier to care for.Once you start getting above 6” they’ll be a bit more fickle and difficult. However, they can still be conditioned. Obviously make sure you do an extensive quarantine and make sure you’ve eliminated crypto. They don’t need heavy flow in QT but aeration and privacy is key. Provide a safe space they can call home, don’t have other boisterous fish in same tank and provide nori (unroasted) to graze on. Keep the light dim aeration up and don’t let them see you too much. I like to observe them in QT from a distance or from a hiding place. They’re very reactive to your presence. You’ll see them come out make a pass take a pick on the algae and return. This is how it will be initially. Once they get to eating and are out QT, it’s time to introduce them to their new home. You need to be mindful of the order you stock your fish. Don’t throw them in a tank with other aggressive fish like powders or even some zebrasoma. Also they need open areas to cruise;dynamic space. Overcrowding or undersized tanks will not work out longterm. Once they get accustomed to the new tank they’ll start joining in on eating off the algae clip or when you dump frozen feed. I’ve noticed with Achilles less is more and sometimes hobbyists get to messing with the fish too much. They’re naturally a nervous fish and don’t appreciate your presence, especially at first. You’re perceived as a threat until they know you’re a friend
Hope this information is helpful
In captivity, it’s best to buy smaller size as they adapt better and are easier to care for.Once you start getting above 6” they’ll be a bit more fickle and difficult. However, they can still be conditioned. Obviously make sure you do an extensive quarantine and make sure you’ve eliminated crypto. They don’t need heavy flow in QT but aeration and privacy is key. Provide a safe space they can call home, don’t have other boisterous fish in same tank and provide nori (unroasted) to graze on. Keep the light dim aeration up and don’t let them see you too much. I like to observe them in QT from a distance or from a hiding place. They’re very reactive to your presence. You’ll see them come out make a pass take a pick on the algae and return. This is how it will be initially. Once they get to eating and are out QT, it’s time to introduce them to their new home. You need to be mindful of the order you stock your fish. Don’t throw them in a tank with other aggressive fish like powders or even some zebrasoma. Also they need open areas to cruise;dynamic space. Overcrowding or undersized tanks will not work out longterm. Once they get accustomed to the new tank they’ll start joining in on eating off the algae clip or when you dump frozen feed. I’ve noticed with Achilles less is more and sometimes hobbyists get to messing with the fish too much. They’re naturally a nervous fish and don’t appreciate your presence, especially at first. You’re perceived as a threat until they know you’re a friend
Hope this information is helpful
My WT Bristletooth is very similar. When I first got him, he would hide in a piece of Black Pipe all day long only coming out to grab a bit of food or to snack a piece of Nori even though the QT was in my basement. The Nori had to be flat on the bottom, and I used an IM Feeder. He would not touch it off a Clip. In my DT he still hides in his place when not grazing.
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How is your rockscape laid out?
So far I’d say that the likely hood is he’s stressed out, possibly from the lack of stretch in swimroom - these are tangs that love 5-6 foot of swim room, especially once they get past the 4-5 inch stage. But like said above, being able to hide also helps them a ton due to the secretive side of them. The rock scape that best suits them is open but more overhangs and archways rather than caves that only have 1 entrance.
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